21LikesRex paloma Ltd edition
07-05-2018, 12:04 PM
#121
Running the engine under load at rpm is what seats the rod journals as well as keeps heat built up so the taper in the liner relaxes. Old school methods will tell you to heat the engine, run it at proper operating temp at the rpm the engine will see in service.
07-05-2018, 12:29 PM
#122
using drake's method I did heat the engine etc.
The issue I had for awhile was the engine would act at points like it wanted to fire but then die. It was almost like it was too rich as when I finally got it to fire I had to pinch the fuel line (saw this done at a hobbyshop years ago on a new engine) and once it started I adjusted the idle speed so it would keep going.
after cool down and looking to fire it up following is when the starter box issue happened.
Anyway, will see how it goes, all need to this so will see how it goes.
The issue I had for awhile was the engine would act at points like it wanted to fire but then die. It was almost like it was too rich as when I finally got it to fire I had to pinch the fuel line (saw this done at a hobbyshop years ago on a new engine) and once it started I adjusted the idle speed so it would keep going.
after cool down and looking to fire it up following is when the starter box issue happened.
Anyway, will see how it goes, all need to this so will see how it goes.
07-05-2018, 04:38 PM
#123
alright heard a tip on blowing into the fuel line to basically prime the engine, did this and adjusted the idle speed almost 3/4 of turn "open" (from what I can tell, thats tightening the screw down opening up the carb?) and it fired again, through the second tank using drakes method, so will see how the third goes. Buddies borrowed box helps too 
08-04-2018, 01:54 PM
#124
Tech Adept
So what's the recommended pipe and manifold for controlable power delivery with a buggy?
08-07-2018, 09:50 AM
#126
Well explained, to add one thing: The performance of an engine comes with the timings. Timings are basically the heights of the ports but also the moment of opening and closing of the crankshaft. And those timings (for sure the 2 from the crankshaft) makes also the feeling of an engine.
Brands selling only 3 port racing engines will provide you a competive engine. Brands with 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 and 9 port engins like Novarossi are a bit different and then you can say the price is making the performance. In onroad we are fooled with the idea that less ports have less performance and that is true because the manufacturer is determing the performance not by port count but actually by timings.
In offroad there is a more demand of a different amount of ports so there are more competive engines with different port counts. On the other hand as mentioned above in the offroad the engine has a less part in fast laptimes than with onroad so a less performing engine can still be a fast one if the car and the driver are performing well.
So timings is making the engine but are not seen by most people, they are really the most important factor of the performance of an engine and not the many visable scoops, teardrops, polishing/sandblasting, cuts etc
Brands selling only 3 port racing engines will provide you a competive engine. Brands with 3, 4, 5, 7, 8 and 9 port engins like Novarossi are a bit different and then you can say the price is making the performance. In onroad we are fooled with the idea that less ports have less performance and that is true because the manufacturer is determing the performance not by port count but actually by timings.
In offroad there is a more demand of a different amount of ports so there are more competive engines with different port counts. On the other hand as mentioned above in the offroad the engine has a less part in fast laptimes than with onroad so a less performing engine can still be a fast one if the car and the driver are performing well.
So timings is making the engine but are not seen by most people, they are really the most important factor of the performance of an engine and not the many visable scoops, teardrops, polishing/sandblasting, cuts etc
08-26-2018, 03:43 PM
#127
Tech Adept
Hi There,
Just did the newer break in method and than ran the engine at the track over a weekend of racing. It is a beast in my buggy even while running 41021 and 9901?? Runs a little hot about 270. After 3/4 of a gallon, I figured I would open it up. What is that weird stuff? It's gummy. I used 3 in 1 as after run oil for the 1st time and I added maybe too much of it while the engine was still at over 200.
I use a syringe to and squeeze
Even the connecting rod feels gummy on the connecting pin?
it with a piece of fuel tube between the carb and the syringe. I open the throttle and give it 5 seconds on the starter box.
Just did the newer break in method and than ran the engine at the track over a weekend of racing. It is a beast in my buggy even while running 41021 and 9901?? Runs a little hot about 270. After 3/4 of a gallon, I figured I would open it up. What is that weird stuff? It's gummy. I used 3 in 1 as after run oil for the 1st time and I added maybe too much of it while the engine was still at over 200.
I use a syringe to and squeeze
Even the connecting rod feels gummy on the connecting pin?
it with a piece of fuel tube between the carb and the syringe. I open the throttle and give it 5 seconds on the starter box.
09-01-2018, 02:48 PM
#128
Tech Regular
That's the oil you used as after run (not a good idea), plus carbon deposits. If you want something cheap for after run that doesn't gum up, use Marvel Mystery Oil. That head button is concerning, the debris and junk should all be removed with 0000 steel wool, then a throight flushing with motor spray or fresh fuel on a clean shop rag.
09-01-2018, 03:21 PM
#129
Suspended
That's the oil you used as after run (not a good idea), plus carbon deposits. If you want something cheap for after run that doesn't gum up, use Marvel Mystery Oil. That head button is concerning, the debris and junk should all be removed with 0000 steel wool, then a throight flushing with motor spray or fresh fuel on a clean shop rag.
3n1 is used by so many people as ARO including myself, zero issues - then again i personally really care for my engines as i dont buy every engine on the market like some
09-01-2018, 03:25 PM
#130
Tech Regular
You're free to believe whatever you like.
09-03-2018, 07:49 PM
#131
Tech Adept
Thanks guys, burnt about half a gallon today at the track. Was slightly rich and waited a little before shooting the ARO. Had even more gummy crap this time. I will try VP power master 30% as I never got this with that fuel. This paloma was broken in and only run on Thor 25%. I would doubt the fuel is the cause but it's strange?
09-04-2018, 01:22 AM
#132
Tech Fanatic
Thanks guys, burnt about half a gallon today at the track. Was slightly rich and waited a little before shooting the ARO. Had even more gummy crap this time. I will try VP power master 30% as I never got this with that fuel. This paloma was broken in and only run on Thor 25%. I would doubt the fuel is the cause but it's strange?
09-09-2018, 08:22 PM
#134
My Paloma has an idle issue that I can't seem to figure out. It'll start no matter what somewhat high with the wheels spinning... then about 45-60 seconds in they'll stop spinning and I let it warm up to operating temp. After I'm at operating temp (at least 220F), I can give it any kind of throttle and let it go back to idle, which it'll then idle high for 15-20 seconds, then go down to it's normal idle. It's somewhat common from the searches I've done, but I can't lean the LSN any further. I can find the perfect point for my LSN before it starts lean bogging on bottom end... Should I be leaning out the top end and then going from there?
This engine holds a tune so dang well, it starts within a second every. single. time. Stays running, too, even with a bad tune.
41001/9886 combo, #6 plug, 8mm carb insert. Fresh air filter. 25/9 VP fuel.
This engine holds a tune so dang well, it starts within a second every. single. time. Stays running, too, even with a bad tune.
41001/9886 combo, #6 plug, 8mm carb insert. Fresh air filter. 25/9 VP fuel.
09-10-2018, 01:44 AM
#135
It shouldn't idle high for 20 seconds. That's long. You should be able to give it any kind of throttle (under load) and it should immediately drop to idle and then lay completely down after about 8-10 seconds. Is your idle gap at .5mm? Are your end points good?