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Help chossing an engine for my heavy driving style

Help chossing an engine for my heavy driving style

Old 03-31-2015, 09:44 AM
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Default Help chossing an engine for my heavy driving style

Recently I have being doing some research regarding which engine I should get for my heavy driving style. As much as I try I always go hard on the throttle and my local track us very dry, dust and bumpy so having an engine with too much torque is not exactly the best way to go.
My last race I ran with a Maxy P5 tuned with the Novarossi 9901 pipe and I was able to win the race, I was a little more consistent but my engine was given me perfect traction and was easy to drive.
After the race when I came home I put the engine apart to clean it and found out that one of the clutch shoes moved forward grinding with the inside wall of the clutch bell, which contributed to my engine not being so hard at low rpms and reduced its initial torque.
After thinking about this, I realized that what I need is either an smaller engine, thinking of the OS .19 or an engine with more port, either 7, 8 or 9. But I don't know which will be the best option. Some people have talk wonders about the .19 engine other simply dislike the engine, others prefer lower port 3 or 4 but I simply don't know.
So I decided to post this thread to listen to options, maybe someone with the same problem found a good tuning or setup that might be helpful.
At the end I know is that I should learn to control my throttle but as a club racer I race like once an month so no time to practice, also I am planning to go up on the number of tooth on my clutch bell, from 13 to 14 and even testing 15, and see how it goes.
So please provide me your inputs, engine options and let me know, thanks for all the help you can give me. Oh I race an Xray XB8 2014.
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:23 AM
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Have you tried lightening fluids to try and tame it down a bit? Maybe lighten clutch springs? Gear it up? Change pipes to a top end pipe? Obviously, the best route to take is to ease your throttle up a bit, but barring that....there are ways to cut down the power of the car as well.

Most engines these days make enough power to break the wheels loose easily...so swapping engines may not be the best route for you to take in the end.

Breaking the wheels loose is a great way to burn excess fuel as well....so quite a few pluses to learning better throttle control. If you wanna learn in a hurry....get a cheap 2WD vehicle and start doing laps with it. That will teach you in a hurry ;-)
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:40 AM
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MotoGod is on point with lighter springs - this will cause the shoes to engage sooner "Lower RPM's" and cause the engine to work a little harder to spool up.

As long as you are not Wide open from idle and then off and back on - you can find a sweet spot between spinning your wheel and clutch engagement.

I too have had this problem and my remedy was to use a heavier Flywheel.. well now I use an adjustable weighted flywheel to help keep the engine from spooling up so quickly.. Then of course tune the shoe engagement with the proper springs (Depending on track conditions / bite .. etc.)

I've been able to pick up full minute of drive time and reduce my engine temps over all. My idle is solid and my tires last much longer.

I few years back if someone was to suggest clutch tuning to the track I was like ..bahh speed wins races - Now I'm a total believer in clutch tuning!!

As far as ports and carb. reducers - that's another topic all together.

A steel flywheel will add more weight and some of them are even adjustable - meaning you can add more and or subtract weight.

Going up a tooth on your clutch bell could cause you to have to use more throttle and hence more fuel and then promote more on / off wide open throttling.. I would not add more teeth to the bell.. try tuning your clutch and finding that sweet spot.

Best advice is practice practice practice !!!!

My setup:
Losi 8 3.0
OS Spec II XZ-B Tuned
6.5mm Carb insert
M2C Adjustable Steel Clutch System w/ Medium Shoes
13t Losi Clutch Bell
48t Pinion

Last edited by offr0aden; 03-31-2015 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:12 AM
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Heavier flywheel is also great advice. I used that on an Alpha A852 when it had way too much punch for Buggy. Worked like a charm. More rotating mass and all that physics stuff. hehe

Clutch tuning will definitely make a world of difference though. The lighter the springs, the softer the power will hit because it will engage at a lower RPM. Heavier springs will give it more hit when it engages due to more RPMs to make the springs give way.

Play with a few things though before you go dumping money into a new engine and have the same problems.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:51 AM
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Thank you both for the clutch tuning tips. Any recommendation on clutch brands, I tried to stay await from that because they usually are expensive and not very effective, I tried a Novarossi and Fioroni clutch.
What I am racing now a days is the simple 3 aluminum shoes and 1.0 springs with the stock flywheel.
I did a quick look over the internet and found the M2C, Buku and Werks. But I see as you mention Aluminun, Steel and Brass flywheels with shoes with different weights and hardness.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:14 PM
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Personally, I run the Losi clutch these days since I'm driving all Losi Nitro rigs, but previously I was running all M2C stuff and his 4 shoe setup is pretty awesome. Mitch makes some good stuff.

4 shoe will be a little more tunable, but 3 shoe should work as well. The 2 most popular clutch shoes are going to be aluminum and carbon. Aluminum will grab harder and wear longer. Carbon will slip a bit more and wear a lot more. At least from my knowledge.

I know Werks (and probably others) used to offer plastic and some other red type shoes. Not sure exactly what characteristics those have though.

See if you can find some .7, .8, or .9 springs and try those.
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by moisesing View Post
Thank you both for the clutch tuning tips. Any recommendation on clutch brands, I tried to stay await from that because they usually are expensive and not very effective, I tried a Novarossi and Fioroni clutch.
What I am racing now a days is the simple 3 aluminum shoes and 1.0 springs with the stock flywheel.
I did a quick look over the internet and found the M2C, Buku and Werks. But I see as you mention Aluminun, Steel and Brass flywheels with shoes with different weights and hardness.
I ran the Losi Clutches and found with my driving style I needed more weight to keep the motor tamed down.

So, for that I'm running the M2C Clutch systems - I have the 24mm Aluminum and 24mm Steel - with the OS Spec II motor it makes insane power in the low to mid band transition - and if not careful the wheels can break away easily.

On a high bite track I'll run the Aluminum partially weighted with Med shoes and .9 to 1.1mm springs.

On loose dusty tracks - I'll run the Steel weighted with Med Shoes and .9 to 1mm springs.

Of course tires play a large part of traction and throttle control...

Like MotoGod said - Mitch at M2C makes some great stuff and always willing to lend a hand or support.

On a side note:
I ran the Vario 3 Shoe Lightweight Cooling Adjustable Clutch w/2 Ergal shoes + 1 Carbon shoe 35mm Diameter - this clutch is weightless - after I finally got it tuned - the shoes wore out and it was just not a friendly clutch to tune IMO. I'm not a huge fan.

Werks Power clutch 4 shoes system is a great system to run - you have lots of springs to tune and the shoes hold up and last.

The Buku is a set it and forget it clutch - for me was a bit too soft on the bottom end and I used more throttle to get around the track and speeds.

Easy clutch to tune and holds up well..

Hope that helps!!
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:05 PM
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What shoes are you running? If all aluminum, you should at least try some carbons. They really help smooth out power delivery. That combined with spring tuning is much cheaper than a whole new clutch assembly.
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Old 04-03-2015, 07:13 PM
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Or just change the pipe... you should try a nova 2096 ( less bottom end and more top) just need to ask at the track moiso
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