After Run Oil

Old 11-25-2014, 09:04 PM
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Default After Run Oil

Hello, sorry if this has been beaten to death but I am trying to find an after run oil alternative. I was looking for something to prevent rust on the crank/bearings. I run the engine out of oil after every race day.

I hear negative things about 3 in 1 oil, straight caster, WD-40, regular Marvel Mystery Oil corroding, swelling orings, attacking the ceramics, gumming up internals and attacking the crank silicone.

After net surfing I have concluded the best would be a 50/50 mix of Marvel Air Tool Oil and Synthetic ATF.

Any experienced pros or engine tuners object?

Thanks!!
Attached Thumbnails After Run Oil-atf.jpg   After Run Oil-product_airtool.png  

Last edited by Nitrojeff; 11-26-2014 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitrojeff View Post
Hello, sorry if this has been beaten to death but I am trying to find an after run oil alternative. I was looking for something to prevent rust on the crank/bearings. I run the engine out of oil after every race day.

I hear negative things about 3 in 1 oil, straight caster, WD-40, regular Marvel Mystery Oil corroding, swelling orings, attacking the ceramics, gumming up internals and attacking the crank silicone.

After net surfing I have concluded the best would be a 50/50 mix of Marvel Air Filter Oil and Synthetic ATF.

Any experienced pros or engine tuners object?

Thanks!!
Hello,

I am curious, what negatives have you heard regarding 3n1 oil? I have used it as an after run, and as an assembly oil for over 15 years and have not had any issues with it.

Thanks,
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Old 11-26-2014, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitrojeff View Post
Hello, sorry if this has been beaten to death but I am trying to find an after run oil alternative. I was looking for something to prevent rust on the crank/bearings. I run the engine out of oil after every race day.

I hear negative things about 3 in 1 oil, straight caster, WD-40, regular Marvel Mystery Oil corroding, swelling orings, attacking the ceramics, gumming up internals and attacking the crank silicone.

After net surfing I have concluded the best would be a 50/50 mix of Marvel Air Filter Oil and Synthetic ATF.

Any experienced pros or engine tuners object?

Thanks!!
I wouldn't think air filter oil would be good for lubrication. I have been using Mobile 1 Synthetic for 3 years now. Still on the same quart. Only problem is it stinks when you first fire it up. Doesn't harm silicone or o-rings and seals.
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Old 11-26-2014, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitrojeff View Post
Hello, sorry if this has been beaten to death but I am trying to find an after run oil alternative. I was looking for something to prevent rust on the crank/bearings. I run the engine out of oil after every race day.

I hear negative things about 3 in 1 oil, straight caster, WD-40, regular Marvel Mystery Oil corroding, swelling orings, attacking the ceramics, gumming up internals and attacking the crank silicone.

After net surfing I have concluded the best would be a 50/50 mix of Marvel Air Filter Oil and Synthetic ATF.

Any experienced pros or engine tuners object?

Thanks!!
I use the Marvel Mystery mix in airplane engines because I haven't fired them up in years. I also use the marvel air tool oil as a after run in my car engines. When you fire them up for the first time after use the engines tend to smoke a little but thats fine. This guy i used to know told me that the m/atf mix would glue the pistons to the sleeves but it turns out that he holds the patent on a after run oil. There was somebody saying not to use a 3 in1oil or the wd40 oil as it would destroy the silicon inset on some racing engines crankshafts. You can get the MM airtool oil at an auto parts store and its about the same as buying the after run oil. Th MM air tool is better bargain IMHO! Michael
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:12 AM
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Good stuff, thanks guys! I'll just start with the MM Air Tool Oil.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER View Post
I wouldn't think air filter oil would be good for lubrication. I have been using Mobile 1 Synthetic for 3 years now. Still on the same quart. Only problem is it stinks when you first fire it up. Doesn't harm silicone or o-rings and seals.
Mobil 1 isnt actually synthetic oil. Its a loophole in the law that allows them to market it as a synthetic. The additives they add to regular dinosaur oil allows them to call it synthetic. i believe they are a category 3 oil. Which i believe is 80% petroleum oil. True synthetics that are 100% man made are made of esters and pao's. and typically say so on the label.

http://www.klotzwarehouse.com/index.php?show_aux_page=6


I use some from hobbico and its clear with no scent. Slight amount of extra smoke but no other odor as it is burned.

Last edited by mtpocketsracing; 11-27-2014 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:23 PM
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I just made a mixture of Synthetic ATF, Rislone Oil Treatment and Marvel Air Tool Oil. Very nice! Smells bad but medium viscosity and very "sticky". We'll see!

Last edited by Nitrojeff; 12-03-2014 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:47 PM
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Just for the record. The formulation for MMO has not changed since 1917. Although some will disagree, it is not something that should be used in nitro engines.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=58809
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:42 PM
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Yep, that's why I went with the Marvel Air Tool Oil. Heard it was a little nicer on orings and crank putty..
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:29 PM
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Wow! What's wrong with regular old nitro engine after run oil? You guys kill me with your eccentricities about this subject. I've been running nitro engines for 20+ yrs. and never had a problem with useing " made for nitro engine after run oil"!!
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:09 PM
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I know this will come across as a plug for the fuel I run but honestly if you were to run the Werks brand of fuel there is no need for any ARO, just run the fuel out and you are left with a nice film of golden oil throughout the engine, all my motors have not one speck of rust in them and we run in some very damp conditions down here in NZ.
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Micah78 View Post
Wow! What's wrong with regular old nitro engine after run oil? You guys kill me with your eccentricities about this subject. I've been running nitro engines for 20+ yrs. and never had a problem with useing " made for nitro engine after run oil"!!
Not to sound like a jerk but allot of the ARO manufacturers did not change the formula when engines started coming with filled cranks. There are a few brands that are not safe for the puddy used to fill cranks and will deteriorate it. If people are set with using ARO just make sure its safe on the epoxy filling. When in doubt just use Singer sewing machine oil.
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by curacing2 View Post
I know this will come across as a plug for the fuel I run but honestly if you were to run the Werks brand of fuel there is no need for any ARO, just run the fuel out and you are left with a nice film of golden oil throughout the engine, all my motors have not one speck of rust in them and we run in some very damp conditions down here in NZ.
Haha! But yet you keep coming back to look!

Because my LHS doesn't have any and instead of paying $10 for a 3oz bottle I made a lifetime supply for $12
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by curacing2 View Post
I know this will come across as a plug for the fuel I run but honestly if you were to run the Werks brand of fuel there is no need for any ARO, just run the fuel out and you are left with a nice film of golden oil throughout the engine, all my motors have not one speck of rust in them and we run in some very damp conditions down here in NZ.
I have heard that with Works, thats awesome wish I could get some here. I run Byrons and even when I run out of fuel I will get rust on the crank few days later with no ARO and the motor sealed.
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Old 12-03-2014, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaz240 View Post
Not to sound like a jerk but allot of the ARO manufacturers did not change the formula when engines started coming with filled cranks. There are a few brands that are not safe for the puddy used to fill cranks and will deteriorate it. If people are set with using ARO just make sure its safe on the epoxy filling. When in doubt just use Singer sewing machine oil.
Exactly! I have over $2K in top of the line engines and would rather not put something in it that is meant for a Traxxas RTR that could harm ceramic bearings or crank putty..
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