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Old 09-09-2014, 05:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Sean Dickinson
No, it keeps the clunk from moving forward or backwards. The clunk still does its function of going to the top of the tank when flipped over, and the bottom when on its wheels. So, like I already said clunks are legal at all events.
Ok now I'm getting it, if you were to have more fuel capacity then legal you could simply pull the fuel line into the tank further after the race to make it seem legal. Ya I could see that being illegal, my next question would be now what is the correct fuel tube length inside the tank for legal fuel limit? Guess you would have to test it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Piva
Ok now I'm getting it, if you were to have more fuel capacity then legal you could simply pull the fuel line into the tank further after the race to make it seem legal. Ya I could see that being illegal, my next question would be now what is the correct fuel tube length inside the tank for legal fuel limit? Guess you would have to test it.
there is no correct answer to that last part of the question

all tanks are different some are way smaller and use long fuel lines to bring up to 125ml max others are a lot closer and need only smaller length of fuel tube to make the legal 125ml
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Prospec
That is the correct answer, the fitting is used to prevent the clunk and tubing being pulled as far back as possible leaving more capacity for fuel.
Its to stop people pushing more fuel line into the tank before tech
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:35 AM
  #19  
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Makes sense
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:06 AM
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One word

KYOSHO

No clunk , no crazy tank pressure changes
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by houston
One word

KYOSHO

No clunk , no crazy tank pressure changes
Hmmmmm..... At the 2014 Nitro Nats, both Tebo and King flamed out during pitstops......
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
Hmmmmm..... At the 2014 Nitro Nats, both Tebo and King flamed out during pitstops......
You have a good point there
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by houston
One word

KYOSHO

No clunk , no crazy tank pressure changes
How does the clunk negatively effect tank pressure and/or changes?
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:58 PM
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I like non clunk simply because there is less moving parts. too many moving parts has too high of a chance of something getting screwed up by my book
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
Hmmmmm..... At the 2014 Nitro Nats, both Tebo and King flamed out during pitstops......
You really think its a tank issue?

I know full well it was not
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
How does the clunk negatively effect tank pressure and/or changes?
I never really said the clunk was the problem , its more like the lid design and stiffness/flexibility/heat resistance of the plastics the tanks made of

A few "clunk" tanks work great
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:34 AM
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.

Last edited by Eivind E; 03-12-2016 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 09-12-2014, 07:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Eivind E
LOL, they both run Team Orion, right? that would do it..
King runs Reds engines.....
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Old 09-12-2014, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ehartman_49348
King runs Reds engines.....
They/He used to run Orion.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by HomicidalBunny
Hi all,

I've always wondered what the benefits and caveats of a clunk tank were and why some manufacturers (including Mugen for the MBX7T) still use traditional tank systems without a clunk. Can someone explain why you might want to use a non-clunk tank?

Thanks,
Realise this is an old thread of your HomicidalBunny, but I have just recently had problems with my Serpent Cobra 811 buggies that have these 'Clunk' type fuel feed system, supplied and assembled by default in the kit.

Just lately it was becoming very difficult to tune both my new identical GO GXII-5RHO engines, which replaced the too powerful OS and Picco engines that were originally installed.*
After exhaustive diagnostics, I finally pulled the tube and filter assembly from one of the tanks and sucked on the opposite end of the 'Bead' filter. Guess what!! It was like trying to draw a thickshake through a cocktail straw, little wonder my engines were starved of fuel.

After breaking down one of the brass bead filters for deeper analysis, I discovered that (Shown in attached photo) :-
(A) The narrowest part of the beads is the only area that fuel passes through, not a smart design feature. Might be OK for .12 engines.
(B) The bulk area of brass beads appear to be only used for extra weight!
(B Yellow Arrow) The pipe is moved around purely for picture clarity, my clunks have never moved out of their guide walls on their own.

I have now modified both my fuel line systems, and so far the results are awesome, just waiting now to see how it goes at our next club meet.


*Our local clay/agrogate track has poor grip with high power engines, which also results in excessive tyre wear. Not normally a problem if one is challenging our 'Ace' drivers in a Worlds final being held on a track such as ours. But I don't have the skills nor finances to absorb one race tyre sets ;-(
Attached Thumbnails Clunk VS Non-Clunk tanks-bead-filter-problem.jpg   Clunk VS Non-Clunk tanks-modified-clunk.jpg   Clunk VS Non-Clunk tanks-fuel-filter-system-mod-1a.jpg  

Last edited by Palebushman; 03-11-2016 at 01:23 AM. Reason: Clarity of photo markers.
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