For the record these are VZB engines. Os still produces p/s/r sets for these. Tons of them all over the place. It’s a bit more expensive than the protek brand but they are still available.

To the B2102 head question. Yes you can bolt it straight on no issues. The head button for the 2102 is actually 1mm wider than the others. I have a good condition 2102 head I would sell if anyone is interested.

what needle settings do you need? 21j settings?

Amain has the rebuild kit an piston sleeve kit in stock. The full rebuild part number is OSM22103030. The protek is just a rerelease of the old VZB engines aka V spec or short stroke engines. It’s been discussed several times here in this forum. However I know none of us are gonna read the entire thing which is why I post when I see these questions. The design of this engine is well over 10 years old. It isn’t anything new, it is however one of the best engine packages that os has produced in a long time. Amain just rebranded the package an remarketed it. Os usually keeps parts in production well after the marketed life of their engines to keep them in service for many years afterwards. If you have any further questions feel free to ask an I will try an help with the ones that I can answer.

yes ive tried them. The quality of any knock off of an OS is never up to the specs of an OS. Yes it will drop in an run. But it doesn’t have the power, durability, longevity of a genuine OS product. Lastly the rods are cast aluminum not billet aluminum. If nobody knows what this means... it means that the rods will stretch, deform, an even bend with enough compression. The rods are the most important part of any racing engine.

Its your money, an one can waste it how they want. But I personally wouldn’t skimp when it comes to an engine or engine components. Cause if that rod breaks you just lost a nice block, DLC crank, an possibly the back plate as well. Way more damage than necessary. The prices of OS genuine rebuild kits are cheap compared to a complete engine. An getting 15 or so gallons on a piston rod sleeve set is pretty good I think. That’s how long my last two protek’s have run. I replace front bearing every other gallon or sooner if needed. Original rear bearing. No repinch yet, an isn’t even needed yet. Take good care of your engines an they will serve you for a very long time without complaint.

Yea that’s a bit worn. The rebuild kits aren’t that bad as far as pricing. You can order through tower hobbies an get a pretty good discount if amain doesn’t have a good one currently. The repinch is great to extend life of engines for sure an should get you another 2-4 gallons pretty easy if the set are able to be pinched. I just rebuilt a protek V2 an broke it in again for a friend of mine. He has two of the same engines. One never made it past the first race. Both broken in the same exact way. I’m almost positive it was just a badly matched piston an sleeve. The rebuild is running very very strong at a couple gallons now. New front bearings an air filters are truly the life of any nitro engine. It’s a pain for sure but well worth that extra effort.

I am desperately looking to buy a “Brand New” ProTek RC 321B Samurai V2 3-Port .21 Competition Buggy Engine. I have been using AMR modified versions of this engine for 3+ years now in my buggy and am trying to locate and purchase just one more of these engines. If anyone has one they would consider selling or can point me in the right direction on where I can find one, I’ll be extremely grateful!

If you have any good leads on one of these engines, please PM me and I’ll take it from there.

Thanks everyone! - Rick

I have one but I recently told a friend of mine that it would only leave my possession from my cold dead hands...but I guess everything has a price. Hit me up. [email protected]