GrimReminder

http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...-here-173.html I came across this and ive heard this routine before. So far I have broke in two engine this way. I would like to know what your thoughts are on this type of break in routine. Thanks for your opinions guys. Check post 2587.

NOvarossi

........???

MotoGod

iTrader: (118)

^^ Yeah what he said ;-)

Eivind E

this better be good..

BillyT.

iTrader: (4)

I'm guessing he was trying to link to this...

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

I havent had any issues breaking in 3 OS engines and a HPI Motor like so:

2 tanks idle
4 tanks part driving around up to half throttle runs
2 tanks full throttle runs
(of course the whole time after the 2 idle tanks tuning the motor and leaning it out ever so slightly)

I wouldnt mind trying the above, especially if the pro motor builders do it.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Also, here is the above pic in text for those of us who cant see the pic:

Here, this is written by Stephen Bess.

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

22Racer

iTrader: (67)

Here is my break in video, works well for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQf-B2UqCTY

Rex

Roelof

As always with these kind of topics everyone will put their methodes....

My ST-RR EVO

iTrader: (5)

It would be great if someone with a lot of time and money did a scientific experiment and broke in a lot of same brand / model engines a lot of different ways and published the results... mileage and longevity... to see if there really is any difference. Then do it with other bands as well.

However, you'd think the engine manufacturer would know best how to break in their product and that is in the instructions.

Roelof

Impossible!

You can only do that when all materials an timings are for 100% equal, so no tolerances. Even 2 same engines from a same batch can give different results due tolerances.....