O.S. Max .12 CV-R issue

Old 07-23-2013, 12:45 PM
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Default O.S. Max .12 CV-R issue

I have 3 RC10GT vehicles. I bought all them used but their condition was close to excellent except the motors hd set for sometime. I went ahead and broke them down and cleaned the 2 O.S. Max .12 CV and the other vehicle has O.S. Max .12 CV-R. It is the one I am having issues with.

I installed the motor correctly and started it and let it idle through 2 tanks of fuel yesterday. At the end of the second tank it started to die and I had to restart it 2 times for it to finish. This motor was not gummed up (like the others) and looked very clean inside. Afterwards I dropped 2 drops of oil in the carb and that was it. I went to restart it today and my starter box would not roll it over. No way possible. I took it off and opened where the pull starter typically is and it was literally filled all the way up with oil.

What could be doing this? I did notice the fuel tank is leaking some so I replaced it but that shouldn't cause the motor to fill up should it? The carb is 10E but the parts look more like 10E-R. For now I am going to swap a different (brand new carb) on and see if it has similiar issue. Any other ideas? Its driving me nuts and I know theCV-R is a better motor. I am running 20% nitro VP brand.

thanks
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by zandrew View Post
I have 3 RC10GT vehicles. I bought all them used but their condition was close to excellent except the motors hd set for sometime. I went ahead and broke them down and cleaned the 2 O.S. Max .12 CV and the other vehicle has O.S. Max .12 CV-R. It is the one I am having issues with.

I installed the motor correctly and started it and let it idle through 2 tanks of fuel yesterday. At the end of the second tank it started to die and I had to restart it 2 times for it to finish. This motor was not gummed up (like the others) and looked very clean inside. Afterwards I dropped 2 drops of oil in the carb and that was it. I went to restart it today and my starter box would not roll it over. No way possible. I took it off and opened where the pull starter typically is and it was literally filled all the way up with oil.

What could be doing this? I did notice the fuel tank is leaking some so I replaced it but that shouldn't cause the motor to fill up should it? The carb is 10E but the parts look more like 10E-R. For now I am going to swap a different (brand new carb) on and see if it has similiar issue. Any other ideas? Its driving me nuts and I know theCV-R is a better motor. I am running 20% nitro VP brand.

thanks
Your excessively rich on the needles. Fuel will build up in crankcase when idling. I have 3 of those engines. From my experience, they are tough. I've had 2 of them since 96 and have NEVER babied them what so ever after the first 3 or 4 tanks of fuel. I had one repinched this last winter, don't really think it needed it. That is all I've done to them, for real. I don't know exactly how many gallons of fuel I've put through them, but its probably in the teens between the 2 of them and they just keep on running. My point is, lean it a bit and go have some fun. Enough box idling. Run it!
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:22 PM
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Yeah I have yet to see any bad commets posted on these motors. What is weird though is the 2 CV motors have 10E carbs. The CV-R also says it has 10E carb but they look completely different. The 10E on the CV has a ratchet mixture control and the CV-R just turns in and out.WHen I looked up the reference for the carbs on O.S. website the CV-R looks more like a 10E-R carb.

I have however tried both settings but what I fear has happened is that the one adjustment damaged its internals. I swapped on sportwerks .18sb carb to see if that helps and it has held a better idle but when I ran the tank out I tilted the car over and oil like substance flowed out the exhaust but no where near like before.

Will the muffler effect anything with the fuel tank? The stock motor was AE .15 and I swapped for the O.S. CV-R. I know one thing. It feels tons more powerful so I really want to get it fixed.

Are you running the CV or CV-R? The CV (&CV-X) are rated at .56 bhp. The CV-R (&CV-RX) is rated at 1 bhp.

I also have a brand new Picco RC speed .12 I am thinking about swappin in but these O.S. looks to be better option.
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Old 07-23-2013, 02:41 PM
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I don't think the pipe change will affect your tank pressure enough to matter. Mine are cv-r. I always had oil in my pipes, I think the design of them let's oil accumulate in the pipe.
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Old 07-23-2013, 03:42 PM
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Do you have the 10E carb and if so can you share your settings? I know mine will be different but I would hope this would get me close.

Edit: I reset the carb and it started just fine. It idles fine once I adjust it a bit (not much). Then after I drive it for a bit with no issues it starts to bog. I put it back on the starter box and notice there is an air bubble in the fuel line right at the point it goes into the high speed needle fixture. No matter what I do it will not break the bubble up. It will get really small but not completely disappear. If I drop a few drops down the carb it fires right up but dies in about 3 seconds.

Any ideas? I have noticed once it is cold and it starts I don't have these issues and the fuel line fills up when I prime it. Once it is hot I can not prime it past the bubble.

Last edited by zandrew; 07-23-2013 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:35 AM
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Someone please help me on this. I can not figure this issue out and I am baffled to say the least.
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:31 AM
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I don't know what carbs I have. I don't preset my needles,( are you suppose to?) I turn them til it performs to my liking. I start at flush. No idea how many turns. sorry.....I'll look at the carbs tonight to see what model they are and count the turns on the needles.
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Old 07-24-2013, 11:48 AM
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High speed needle set 2 1/2 turns from bottomed out. Low speed needle set with the top flush with the tube it is threaded in to.

This should get you going and then you can fine tune for your location.

If your engine won't start at this setting look for air leaks and carb problems, including crud stuck in the tiny places inside.

Take the low speed needle out and use WD-40 with the red straw to blow through the low speed passage. Do the same with the HSN.

Once you get it running, find a place between 200 and 300 degrees where you like the way it runs and run it.

The CV-R is a beast of a little engine, I've never had any real problems with mine.

One other thing, if you are getting a lot of unburned oil/fuel in your pipe and you have good needle settings you might have old fuel.

The hallmark of old fuel is constantly chasing tune and a ton of buildup in your pipe.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:28 AM
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It should not be the crud since I broke everything down and cleaned it and it is easy to blow through. I run the nitro in my redcat and it has had no issues what so ever.

I am thinking I have a air leak and I suspect its the little plastic fuel inlet barb on the carb.

I have brand spanking new Picco RC speed .12 I am going to swap on. I will pull the O.S. and probably swap it in a MGT 3.0 I have even though it is a bit small.

As far as the Picco is concerned are they good motors? I noticed the carb looks like a copy of the O.S. ones. It is rated at 1.25hp so it should make the RC10 move pretty good.

How mny tanks should I run through it?
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