61LikesFX Royal Racing Engine Thread
08-11-2014, 07:49 PM
#1036
I just put the Buku clutch on my FX as well and Brian F. from Buku was there to help me install and it sounds like you may have your springs set to soft and the clutch is engaging way too soon. He suggests 1 turn in on screw #1, 2 turn in on screw #2, and 3 turns in for a loose track and 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 for tracks w more grip. I used 1-2-3 for a loose track this past weekend and it was great.
08-11-2014, 07:53 PM
#1037
08-12-2014, 11:37 AM
#1038
I am running a vented serpent bell on my FX w buku clutch on a Tekno nb48, if running rear motor you will need to put a couple washers behind flywheel to get the bell close to centered on spur but even without extra shimming it was fine I just like to get close to centered
08-12-2014, 12:11 PM
#1039
The engines are probably very nice and high quality, but I don't think they are any better than if he had Novarossi or OS make it to his Specs like some guys already do. The whole "read" is a bunch of commercial, marketing plot to me. I don't blame him, you gotta advertise the products, but this stuff can be so misleading to the average Joe.
I'm a mechanical engineer, so I'm not fooled by things such as "the finest Italian and Swiss machines" or "The finest German Aluminum" ... or "The best European materials" etc etc etc. High grade aluminum is high-grade aluminum, there are standards that these materials have to stack up to in order to be characterized as high-grade (as well as heat treatments such as T6 for 7075-grade Al that we commonly use in our chassis and towers).... qualities such as hardness, young's modulus (elasticity), strength, and flow stress. Also, machines are machines, whether they are Swiss, Italian, German, American, Chinese, etc.... all that is needed is accuracy, reliability and very tight tolerances. This is not unique to Swiss and Italian machines, for example.
I know the guy is trying to sell his product, but too often people see this "fancy" language and make decisions based on this. I'm sure Novarossi also uses the "finest Italian machines"
Don't get me wrong, I respect the guy, as an engineer and fellow hobbyist I know exactly WHY he wants to make all his parts in house and control 100% of his quality output.... but from a business side, I can only imagine the amounts of money he had to put down towards those machines for a product that is already dominated by a few companies (Nova, OS, Picco). I just don't see the business model behind this. Anyone with more of a business background care to chime in on this?
I definitely look forward to seeing one in person, since the read and Neobuggy puts a lot of hype behind the engines, I want to see what makes them "better" than what I can buy for $300 on Amain, or are they just another over-priced engine? Thoughts?
I'm a mechanical engineer, so I'm not fooled by things such as "the finest Italian and Swiss machines" or "The finest German Aluminum" ... or "The best European materials" etc etc etc. High grade aluminum is high-grade aluminum, there are standards that these materials have to stack up to in order to be characterized as high-grade (as well as heat treatments such as T6 for 7075-grade Al that we commonly use in our chassis and towers).... qualities such as hardness, young's modulus (elasticity), strength, and flow stress. Also, machines are machines, whether they are Swiss, Italian, German, American, Chinese, etc.... all that is needed is accuracy, reliability and very tight tolerances. This is not unique to Swiss and Italian machines, for example.
I know the guy is trying to sell his product, but too often people see this "fancy" language and make decisions based on this. I'm sure Novarossi also uses the "finest Italian machines"
Don't get me wrong, I respect the guy, as an engineer and fellow hobbyist I know exactly WHY he wants to make all his parts in house and control 100% of his quality output.... but from a business side, I can only imagine the amounts of money he had to put down towards those machines for a product that is already dominated by a few companies (Nova, OS, Picco). I just don't see the business model behind this. Anyone with more of a business background care to chime in on this?
I definitely look forward to seeing one in person, since the read and Neobuggy puts a lot of hype behind the engines, I want to see what makes them "better" than what I can buy for $300 on Amain, or are they just another over-priced engine? Thoughts?
Where I feel you are wrong is please dont place Chinese machines in the same sentance as Euoropean machines especially in this case as I think Hudy are using DMG amoungst others and really from my expeience you will have 100 pieces of shit comming out of China for ever 1 half decent cnc machine and then it will have a Japanese or German made control.
08-12-2014, 02:24 PM
#1040
so as it turns out from personal experience and also racer and customer feedback the FX engine is a major hit on the tracks. I dont know how many the factory is pushing out or its profitable but my opinion is its the best parts of Novarossi and the best parts of O.S combined into one engine. I would say the only down side is they are really tight and need 1-1 1/2 gallons before they are ready to be abused and you have to take it apart and do a head shim swap before you can fire it.
08-12-2014, 05:07 PM
#1041
Naw pick it up on Tuesday 2 hours on the "to go" break in bench Friday, bolt it in and then run it in the main on Saturday (I need more Bill I need more!!!) nothink like AZ racing 
That engine still has some metal pinch when cold after 2-3 gallons. Great engines IMO
That engine still has some metal pinch when cold after 2-3 gallons. Great engines IMO
08-15-2014, 02:06 PM
#1042
The new style (full throttle pig rich cool down 10 min between tanks ) of break in I got 4 tanks so far and the engine is just as tight as it came out of the box ha ha .... I'm gonna finish up the quart of fuel I have but I ordered a quart of the bones break in so I'll just do a few tanks to finish it up... But I agree about the tightness of the engine and it was lapped from Rex also ha ha
08-15-2014, 04:44 PM
#1043
The new style (full throttle pig rich cool down 10 min between tanks ) of break in I got 4 tanks so far and the engine is just as tight as it came out of the box ha ha .... I'm gonna finish up the quart of fuel I have but I ordered a quart of the bones break in so I'll just do a few tanks to finish it up... But I agree about the tightness of the engine and it was lapped from Rex also ha ha
08-15-2014, 04:52 PM
#1044
08-16-2014, 12:34 AM
#1045
Running the 2108 with the med med header and it's insane on astroturf, but I wouldn't mind to give a bit of power and gain some runtime.
08-16-2014, 05:33 PM
#1046
Rex just put my 2nd FX in the mail, selling all my other engines.
08-19-2014, 06:30 PM
#1048
Finally got the engine broke in, and started leaning the top end and even rich 220's F the engine freaking screams the smoke trail is great so I'm sure I can lean it a few more hours before I touch the low end needle.... The 0801 sounds great also
08-24-2014, 09:38 PM
#1049
Hey guys, having trouble with fuel mileage.
I'm running an RB 6mm venturi (see pic below) with the 2108 pipe and a medium header.
Tune seems to be good (got some help from a more experienced driver) - idle lays down, good power, smoke at all times, and no run-on. If it matters, temps are around 120C-130C (Around 250F). I'm running a new OS P4 plug, and ambient temps are around 15C (60F), starting to move into spring.
I only get 7 minutes of run time on a good run, and that's pushing at normal pace - not pushing particularly hard, but not going easy on the engine either.
Any suggestions? Should I move up to a 6.5mm-7mm venturi or run a different pipe/header combo? Most of the guys at my track run a 2100 with their FX and can still clear all the jumps, but I still need bottom end power to clear a hard step-on step-off section that has a fairly short run-up. With my current setup I can also easily clear all the jumps on my track, with some overshoot. Something else to note is that the engine seems to have more power at the around 3/4 full to 1/2 full tank, with a fully heat-soaked chassis, but power drops off slightly near the end of the tank. Is this a sign of a mid-tank lean? I run a Buku clutch set at 1.25, 2, 3 turns, and my drivetrain is not binding (Mugen MBX7). The other guys with FX's at my track get around 9-10 minutes of run time easy, but I can't seem to crack the code.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm running an RB 6mm venturi (see pic below) with the 2108 pipe and a medium header.
Tune seems to be good (got some help from a more experienced driver) - idle lays down, good power, smoke at all times, and no run-on. If it matters, temps are around 120C-130C (Around 250F). I'm running a new OS P4 plug, and ambient temps are around 15C (60F), starting to move into spring.
I only get 7 minutes of run time on a good run, and that's pushing at normal pace - not pushing particularly hard, but not going easy on the engine either.
Any suggestions? Should I move up to a 6.5mm-7mm venturi or run a different pipe/header combo? Most of the guys at my track run a 2100 with their FX and can still clear all the jumps, but I still need bottom end power to clear a hard step-on step-off section that has a fairly short run-up. With my current setup I can also easily clear all the jumps on my track, with some overshoot. Something else to note is that the engine seems to have more power at the around 3/4 full to 1/2 full tank, with a fully heat-soaked chassis, but power drops off slightly near the end of the tank. Is this a sign of a mid-tank lean? I run a Buku clutch set at 1.25, 2, 3 turns, and my drivetrain is not binding (Mugen MBX7). The other guys with FX's at my track get around 9-10 minutes of run time easy, but I can't seem to crack the code.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by HomicidalBunny; 08-24-2014 at 09:50 PM.
08-25-2014, 05:12 AM
#1050
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Start running a normal 6 mm venturi so you know it isn't because of the RB venturi you get low mileage. Shoot some pictures of the internals.