What engine??
 

Sorry if this thread has already been done...
I have a RC8Tce I am a rookie when it comes to nitro... but a buddy of mine said I would enjoy nitro truggy. I DO.. The down side is I started with a nVision 521R when amain had them on sale and the thing just gives me fits. I am now in the market for a new .21 for my truggy. Keep in mind I (as we all are) am on a budget and have to keep it under 250 for the engine. Please help, looking for something that is reliable and will last longer then 1.5 gal. of fuel. I am looking at possibly a clockwork werks b2. any and all assistance will be helpfull

Greg

.....or you can get something easy to tune since youre a newb.

I'd get the OS .28XZ if I were you. P3 plug and 30% Byrons.

Or, if others are having good luck at your track with .21's in thier Rc8T's, which are kinda porky, try an OS .21XZb with a OS 2090 pipe and P3 plug.

The Ninja BO2 with it's pipe would be even better.

If you can't tune the above engines, and your clutch, fuel, tank, and lines are good......then there is no hope for you. Those are all really easy to tune engines. Noone runs werks anymore in my area.?

If you can find 70 more dollars, I would suggest a truggy mod P5 from Clockwork. I had a buggy mod P5 in my truggy and it was really fast, truggy mod would be even faster.

A lot of people around d here are running the novarossi P5xlt. Seems to be an easy tune and it runs great, I'm ordering one next week. Werks motors are OK but out of the 3 I've had, not one would idle right.

The alpha .23 would fit into your budget and is as easy as it comes to tune...plus it's got all the power you'd need for your truggy....

Hey Greg. There are a ton of threads on this what budget engine subject...just go thru a page or two.

I ran Werks B5s in my RC8T for two seasons. Pushed it around just fine. Since you have identified yourself as a newb, I'd highly recommend sticking to a stock engine. I have personally observed that the CRE mills are going to be a little harder to tune right on any given day, plus CRE is going to tell you that you should switch to a Nova or OS carb on a modded B2. That is out of your budget. Go ahead CRE fans - send me some hate mail. I only speak of what happens at my small local club. I've see dozens of CRE engines run great on video and in person at the CRE track when Neal is there to set them up.

I'll assume you've got a Nvision 2058 pipe. That is good because it will work well with a lot of different engines. I'm looking for a new engine for my truggy too. I'm leaning towards Nova P5 or Fusion X3 since I'm happy with the Nova in my buggy. Nothing wrong with a Werks B5 or whatever the base Orion is now. I read that the newer Nvisions are better than the R verions that A-Main pumped out on discount.

Good luck!

Yep I have the nvision 2058 pipe not realy a big newb only to ntro I ran a few nitro buggies in the past as a play toy but never raced... The only real criteria is that it tunes well , idles, and lets me enjoy the class. That nvision engine ran fine for a while now it will not stay running unless the glow stick stays on it even afyter changing the plug twice. will not idle but revs to the moon. thought i had air leak in engine or fuel system but all tested good. Need to stay with a .21 for the class

theres alot of great engines in your price range

stick with a stock engine

p5xlt comes to mind ;)
fusion X3 comes to mind ;)

either will run great with the 2058 pipe you already own BONUS!!:blush:

I am going to agree with him being a novice that a stock engine is usually better suited... tho the Clocked B2 is not really that high strung of a engine.....the stock carb also works well on the Clocked B2..

I also do not believe the modified engines are any harder to tune then a stock engine is, they really tune the exact same way.........However the modifieds are definitely more vulnerable to damages caused by abuse or poor maintenance practices then would be their stock counterparts.....The modified engines are generally run much harder then stock and can take on mechanical damages faster if something goes wrong or is neglected....I know every single engine that has been run at your specific club and the story behind each of them.......... And any time one of my engines was causing issue there was a mechanical cause behind the issue that was being overlooked at the time....A major issue being dirt passing thru the engines causing rapid wear on the internals..... And unfortunately no amount of needle turning will tame a engine that has been rubbed out by dirt.....If the problem is there one weekend, its not going to go away the next weekend or the weekend after that...... Once a engine is damaged it will not operate correctly till the damage is repaired, and a person can turn on the needles till the cows come home and the engine will never behave itself....

With that being said a modified engine is not for everyone... they require more maintenance and care then would their stock counterparts, but with that they will deliver stronger more dynamic performance then would their stock counterparts.... If your the type of person who doesn't like to do any maintenance, and wants something that never needs to be serviced or cared for then a modified engine is most definitely not for you, or at least not one of the stronger ones... Modified engines do require a more diligent maintenance schedule that unfortunately if ignored will lead to various problems...

The faster engine is, the more maintenance it is going to require, this goes for stock and modified alike...The harder we run them, the more they wear and the more prone they are to damages and the more maintenance they require....this is a standard that goes across all forms of motorsports......There is nothing special about the way I set up and tune a engine, other then I am very diligent with keeping them clean and well maintained...The only time I see a engine that is hard to tune is when there is something wrong with it or the chain connected to it....other then that a modified tunes just the same as a stock engine would....the same techniques apply to each.....

maybe send me the Nvision for service.....you may have some underlying mechanical issue there that could be a cheap and easy fix....Also may be good to find out what went wrong so you can apply that to your next engine....

Thanks Neal I talked with you earlier today on the phone I'm the guy in FL Johnny Browns friend. You were very helpfull on the phone and I was impressed that you took the time even for the little guy (me) that ment alot to me and I will be ordering from clockwork in mid to late Nov. for my next engine

Pretty hard to fix mass produced garbage from that particular factory....

Alpha A352 or A852, or a Werks B5.

There are probably 20+ good options on Amain's site alone.. Alpha makes great engines for the price though. Werks too. For the money I don't think you'll find anything more powerful than the 23 from Alpha. Alphas tend to have a lot of pinch when new, but they tune easily, work well with readily available plugs, last long, etc..

I should clarify. I have observed that the local guys with modified mills need to spend a bit more time looking for that perfect tune. No doubt the process is the same. They just don't show up, drop their cars on the starter box during warm-up and run each race like many others. Perhaps that has more to do with their individual personalities than engine choices. We are all good friends at SORRCC, I don't think any of them intentionally neglect their equipment. Stuff happens at high RPM, I get it. I'll leave the failure rate analysis to the engine experts; I'm just a small town club racer.

Greg has indicated he doesn't have a lot of nitro experience and is looking for a no-fuss, easy to tune engine within a $250 budget. I'll stand by my recommendations because I'm the same kind of racer (same truck too).

Don't hesitate to buy thru CRE Greg. My last engine (a Nova +4) came from them (very happy with it)...so will a P5 if that's the way I decide to go next year. I've got 5 months to decide what I want to do (snow came down today and probably won't leave until April). Good luck!

I know exactly what you are saying...and exactly what you are describing is the problem in itself..People messing with needles when they really shouldn't be......these engines should not need to be constantly needled...and if a person is constantly messing with the needles then they are doing something wrong or have something wrong with their engine...... over here We go gallons at a time without even looking at the needles, and often times our engines will go thru their entire lives and the needles hardly moving from their initial tune settings.... John's Bonito has not had a formal tuning since June of this year, and other then the idle gap size we have not touched the mixture needles more then 1/4 hour from where I set it originally...And we have all kinds of crazy weather swings here....

the real issue is people seldom realize that what appears to be a tune issue is actually a mechanical issue....Perfect example is the guy messing with the needles because a engine is idling low and flaming, only to later realize the CB bearings were seizing up...And now that he's fixxed the bearings the needles are so far out of whack from him trying to solve bad CB bearings by adjusting the needles.............. I cannot stress enough that if a engine requires constant needling then there is something wrong, or your doing something wrong...... Once a engine is tuned it should rarely ever need to be touched.......And if all of a sudden the engine appears to be out of tune then there is something wrong unrelated to the needles themselves...The issue is most people are far too quick to start cranking needles when they really shouldn't be...And once a person start messing around with the needles all sorts of issues start compounding...............I cant stress this enough,,,if your constantly adjusting the mixture needles then there is something wrong or your doing something wrong...no two ways about it......

And I will say it again..the very first needle that should be adjusted with a severe weather change is the idle position needle.... The mixture needles should rarely need to be touched once they are set.....

Anyways that is my story and I am sticking to it..........