O'Donnells Speed Blend rusted the crap out of my engine.
 

The title says it all.

Anyone else had this problem?

I've never used ARO, used to run Byrons fuels.
Engines would sit for a year and come apart looking perfect, tore down my .50 MGT engine the other day and found nothing but rust.:weird:
I'd been running O'Donnells Speed Blend 30% with extra Klotz Benol added to it, still ended up with a rotted out engine.
Bearings are toast, and I'm not the first guy at my track to have toasted bearings, this is not my race vehicle, but a friend just smoked some brg's in his O.S. and he's been running the same fuel.
There's been plenty of other guys that swore by that fuel last year that are running "another brand" now.
IMO O'Donnells Speed Blend was a fast fading fad, anyone else had any bad experiences with it?

Yea you could lean your engine out with low temps with it, I tune to feel, not temps.

Smoke your engine on O'Donnells Speed Blend?
Speak up!

ive been runnning the fuel sense it came out and have yet to have this problem, engines look new even after 8-10 gallons. i do change bearings every 2-4 gallons but from what ive seen and heard every fuel has this happen except maybe byron

Well....if you let your engines sit for a year without properly prepping them, of course you will have issues. Remember what's in the fuel that these little engines run. Alcohol...what does alcohol love to do? Suck up moisture from the air! What does moisture do inside a closed up metal crankcase? You guessed it....RUST!

Some fuels are worse than others for the rust effect, but this is why people run ARO, or WD40, or some other oil type in there when storing engines....to ward off rust. So yeah I have heard of Speed Blend rusting engines, but only if they sit unused for extended periods. If you don't plan to fire it up for a week...run ARO in it.

I run Torco, and there seems to be enough oil in there to leave a great coating all over my internals so I don't need to worry about ARO.....but hey. Live and learn right? If you like the way Speed Blend runs.....then start using ARO. Pretty simple fix right?

If you leave fuel in your tank then your asking for problems. Certain motors rust more then others also castor for me makes a big deal . I don't run fuels with all synthetic your asking for problems that's my opinion. Certain oil packages are better then other when it comes to rust. If you storing your motor for a long period it doesnt hurt to use some ARO I use corrosion x best stuff on the plant. Dump fuel, take out engine close off openings, and use after run.

I have been running the Speed blend since they released it at CRCRC in 2010 and I can open up any of my engines and they are all rust-free. Better yet, none of them are all gummed up like I have seen with other fuels (TQ Fuel comes to mind). They are nice and clean on the inside and my engines always run solid on this fuel.

I'm not familiar with Speed Blend's make up (synthetic vs Castor). I run byrons (30/9) and add an ounce of castor to it. End of the day don't run your engine empty, dump any fuel in the tank, and store the engine with the nose pointed down. This will keep any castor oil left in the case around the bearings and prevent rust.

Any issues so far using corrosion x on a filled crank? Corrosion x is great stuff!

Pics? Are you sure it's rough flakey rust, and not just brown stain from the Klotz.

I use Sidewinder and Byrons. Sidewinder is the best for preventing rust. I just run the tank dry until the engine dies. Then store indoors. For long term storage I'll fog the engine with oil.

I've seen a couple spots of rust on some racers crankshafts in non-important areas, but nothing critical.

I'll try to post some pictures tonight of my Toro Nero.....broken in, and ran exclusively on 30% Speed Blend.

Was running like a champ until I took it apart at 3 gallons to inspect everything.....I either flushed something into the rear bearing when I was cleaning the inside with denatured alcohol, or didn't put enough oil on it before firing it back up. Either way, the rear bearing gave up the ghost on the very next run....bummer, but totally my fault. :( Other than my self-inflicted problem, I was very happy with how it performed.

My typical end of race day procedure is to dump the tank, idle the engine until it stalls, then put 10-15 drops of ARO in the carb, and another 10-15 in the glow plug hole, spin for 3-5 seconds on the box, close it up, and wait for the next race. BTW, I use Mobil-1 full synthetic motor oil for ARO (doesn't seem to affect filled cranks like regular petroluem based oils do).

Nope no issues i called they said you will be fine

How often do you race. If that's a weekly routine and your car is stored in a dry spot, that's likely more harm than good, or possibly as much harm as good.

You can skip the Mobile1 ARO. Removing the airfilter and glow plug risks getting dirt in the engine. I usually change glow plugs with the car upsidedown. And I rarely cut the ziptie on my air filter elbow.

Then again, I run fuels known for their ARO properties. I couldn't tune Odonnel fuel well, many years ago, and haven't tried it since.

Go back to odonnel orginal. I have used odonnel speed blend but it would nit tune in properly and the stuff would change the tune of the engine if the temperature changed a little. Never had the same issue with any of the fuels i have used before. Tested the theory with my ws7xIII and it had the same problem. Switched to the old odonnel and havent had the same issue.

Mike (Stubbs) races every 2-4 weeks at this point. Some months more....some months less.

What kind of tuning issues were you experiencing? I don't know of anyone that had issues tuning with the Speed blend....

Any time the temperature would change 5 degrees i would have to lean or richen it about 1/4. When the humidity changed slightly it was the same thing. And when the sun would go down i would have to lean it out 1/2 a turn just to get either of my engines to run. In the broad spectrum yeah you did get more fuel eco and better temps with speed blend. But it was not worth the headach of the tuning issues.
There is a reason that the old odonnel is still made and the simple fact that its still one of the best around and has over a ten year run. Its the stuff to use as im concerned.