BP Racing Offroad Engines
#1
BP Racing Offroad Engines
With all the talk of the BP Racing lately, I thought it was time for there to be a thread about them. I know I can't be the only person with one, so if you have one post how you are liking it. Considering BP Racing actually manufacturers their own products and engines in-house, in Italy, I am really surprised there isn't more of a following of the company. They aren't another re-badge with a different color cooling head on it. These are the real deal.
I bought a 335RB-BX a few weeks ago and finally got to race it last weekend. I'll post some pics and my review of the engine a little later tonight. First impressions are very positive. The engine is a complete ripper...
EDIT: Just wanted to give everyone a reminder to make sure you give these engines a really thorough break-in. Be sure to always heat the engine prior to starting it, I like 200ºF head temp, 175ºF block temp. Also you need to use a fuel with a good amount of Castor oil. I used the new VP Powermaster to break the engine in, and added 6oz of Castor to bring it to 13% oil.
Last edited by BrakeTurnAccelerate; 04-11-2012 at 10:06 PM.
#3
I am mightily impressed with your Brake. Was very strong motor to move your pig DNX I didnt even realize yours was the 3-port, thought you had the 5. It was real fast down the strait.
I was starting to like my +4BTT/a, but now i get to try round 2 with it i guess.
I was starting to like my +4BTT/a, but now i get to try round 2 with it i guess.
#4
I want to try one. A main has a great deal going.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Engine-Turbo
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Engine-Turbo
#5
I was going to write a big review, but I really don't think it's necessary. Simply put, the engine is excellent. The quality is on par or above the "high-end" Italian and Japanese manufacturers. There is power at every RPM range. The engine has really, really, good low end and just keeps pulling through the Revs. It's kind of hard to explain but there is tons of low end, but it's still very driveable. It's also not too smooth like a lot of modern engines are IMHO. I was able to go about 8 minutes running 190-200ºF with a 77T plug, so running at a more proper temp with a cooler plug, I think 9-10 is very doable. FWIW, I am running a 2058 nVision pipe (same as Orion, Werks) and think it's the perfect match for this engine. I haven't tried any other pipes, and don't think I need too. As RePeTe can attest, I am not a pro-tuner by any means, and I can say that the engine is really easy to get dialed in.
The only real negative I can complain about is the carb slide is a little notchy and needed some deburring on the idle screw slide. The engine I received was "conveniently" the A-main photo engine (this is my 3rd $$ item that has been opened by A-main prior to buying it.) The Idle Needle looked like someone was grinding it pretty good, so I don't know if it was A-main or a BP issue. Eitherway, it works good now.
Overall, I am really really happy with my purchase. Enough so, that I went out of my way to start this thread and review the engine. I am not sponsored or selling any products, so I am not pushing the brand to make a profit.
335RB-BX Internals
Sleeve picture
"Bi-turbo" Cut crank + drilled & filled
Lightweight Rod, lighter than LM and Nova rods.
The only real negative I can complain about is the carb slide is a little notchy and needed some deburring on the idle screw slide. The engine I received was "conveniently" the A-main photo engine (this is my 3rd $$ item that has been opened by A-main prior to buying it.) The Idle Needle looked like someone was grinding it pretty good, so I don't know if it was A-main or a BP issue. Eitherway, it works good now.
Overall, I am really really happy with my purchase. Enough so, that I went out of my way to start this thread and review the engine. I am not sponsored or selling any products, so I am not pushing the brand to make a profit.
335RB-BX Internals
Sleeve picture
"Bi-turbo" Cut crank + drilled & filled
Lightweight Rod, lighter than LM and Nova rods.
Last edited by BrakeTurnAccelerate; 04-11-2012 at 11:39 PM.
#6
I want to try one. A main has a great deal going.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Engine-Turbo
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Engine-Turbo
The BTT looked really good in the first two heats. I wanted to see what they would do side-by-side but I guess it will be a little while until that happens. I don't think the Speed or Tecno want any part of either one though.
That's why I created the thread, there is only a few threads on here, and they are just people asking about them, no real experience.
Last edited by BrakeTurnAccelerate; 04-11-2012 at 11:39 PM.
#8
220-240 on average during the day. At night 200-215. (running a 77t)
Last edited by BrakeTurnAccelerate; 04-22-2012 at 11:13 PM.
#10
#13
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Got mine in today. The good, it's lighter then my B5 by about 11 grams with the clutch, plug, air cleaner, clutch bell and motor mounts installed. The cooling head has less material machined off of it then the B5 allowing the competition heat to make more contact all the way around. This gets the engine up to temp much faster. Now how this affects cooling when running remains to be seen. All the internal parts were lightly oiled and there was no rust or machining debris in the case at all.
The bad, well if you have a flywheel with a flange on the back of it plan on removing it or buying one that's flat. The case is larger around the front bearing then the B5 and the same flywheel (with a flange) wouldn't work. I fixed it by removing the flange with a bench grinder. To be fair the ad on A-mains site did state this may be a problem so it didn't take me by surprise.
The ugly, I have no idea why but the piston was nearly at top dead center right out of the box. Actually stuck there I had to heat the engine up to free it. Thankfully it doesn't seem to have hurt anything and there are no scratches on the cylinder. If I hadn't heated the case, and removed the back plate to see which way to turn it, the out come may have been different.
I'm going to fire it up and break it in this weekend and report back
The bad, well if you have a flywheel with a flange on the back of it plan on removing it or buying one that's flat. The case is larger around the front bearing then the B5 and the same flywheel (with a flange) wouldn't work. I fixed it by removing the flange with a bench grinder. To be fair the ad on A-mains site did state this may be a problem so it didn't take me by surprise.
The ugly, I have no idea why but the piston was nearly at top dead center right out of the box. Actually stuck there I had to heat the engine up to free it. Thankfully it doesn't seem to have hurt anything and there are no scratches on the cylinder. If I hadn't heated the case, and removed the back plate to see which way to turn it, the out come may have been different.
I'm going to fire it up and break it in this weekend and report back
Last edited by jbarker; 04-18-2012 at 04:29 AM.
#14
The ugly, I have no idea why but the piston was nearly at top dead center right out of the box. Actually stuck there I had to heat the engine up to free it. Thankfully it doesn't seem to have hurt anything and there are no scratches on the cylinder. If I hadn't heated the case, and removed the back plate to see which way to turn it, the out come may have been different.
Last edited by BrakeTurnAccelerate; 04-18-2012 at 12:33 AM.
#15
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
My thoughts exactly. I always make it a habit to open up and inspect all new engines as soon as I get them. You just never know what will work it's way into them during shipping or storage. In this case it also let me know which way to rotate the crankshaft so as not to jam it (the piston) in there further. On that note I see your point about heating the case up prior to starting as the pinch on this engine is SUPER tight.