Sh .28 won't run right.
 

Hey all, my engine seems to have some problems. I was out sunday and ran a little over 1/2 a quart and ran fine. Went out today and most of the time I couldn't get it to idle, just die. If it keep the trim up or adjust the idle, it will stay going but wants to run away.

It have 2 1/2 quarts gone through it. I've set all the needles back to stock and tried. Just either runs for about 30 secs and dies. Then will not start until cold or if I give it lots of throttle. I know it did get hot today, first time it got hot enough to boil my spit. Sizzled for about 3 secs but didn't evaporate, but lots of smoke but had no power after a min of use, so I shut it down.

I've tried turning the flywheel by finger and its pretty easy, there is a small pinch feeling but not much. When it did work it works well just no idle. I will compression test tomorrow, but when pulling over with cord it does seem to have a compression.

I also changed glow plugs 3 times and used other peoples heaters. I've gone from 2 1/4 - 4 on the LSN and 2 1/2 - 4 on the high. If it would run for more than 30 secs I could adjust it, but it won't start again after unless I want it to go 1/2 throttle and scream. Very annoying and damaging.

Thoughts or suggestions welcomed greatly.

How wide is your throttle gap?

Check all your fuel lines, filters , tank, clutch etc first to try to isolate the problem and eliminate other suspect areas beside the actual engine.

Then on the engine Check seals, o rings, bearings, rod etc...

If it gets to where you are stuck, send it in to us and just pay for shipping charges and we will inspect it for you and let you know exactly whats going on. We wont charge for the inspection.

Hope this helps,
Lance
RcRenew.com

your needle settings should be....
sh.28 engine settings Low speed needle clockwsie till stop, back out counter clockwise 3.5-4 turns
sh.28 engine Settings High speed needle clockwise till stop, back out counter clockwise 2.5

are they close? if you still have problems i would send to lance (great honest guy) and have him check it out!

This confuses me a little. Is it 1 mm from the flat of the barrel? or 1 mm from the 1/2 moon on the barrel?


As stated, car is about 3 weeks old and about 2 1/2 quarts of fuel. Last night I had a look at the tank, filter, hoses. All seems to be in good shape. The clutch and bell and brand new, I had a problem with my diff's and shop where i bought it thought it was clutch so they replaced the bell and put metal clutches in.

As far as the engine is concerned, I don't really want to strip it because there is nowhere to buy parts to here. If I need something I have to order and takes 1-2 weeks to get it. I live on an island east coast of canada so sending my motor would costjust as much as buying a new one. It has nowhere near the compression it had when new but thats fine, its broke in now for sure!!

I'm going to try again today, if not I may have a buggy for sale LOL.

Well same thing today. Cleaned the carb, check lines, reset to stock and to what user here said. Still it ran, I got 10' and shut off on idle, Won't start anymore. If I wait 10 mins and try again it'll start. Even when I advance my trim it may start for a second and shut off. Got my fingers tore to pieces on the darn pull cord. This is really getting on my nerves.

When it first started today there was fuel coming out the pipe, I could see it spitting so I leaned it out a little. When give it throttle it had puff of smoke and nice trail behind. Went to turn around and just shut off and no start.

I also adjusted my idle too, about 1.5 mm.

HELP!!

Sounds like your getting to much fuel, set needles at factory settings and then turn the HIGH SPEED NEEDLE IN 3 TO 4 HOURS. and turn your LOW SPEED IN 1/2 TURN, you may have also fouled out your plug. change plug and try that, also make sure head bolts are tight

Ok well i took the head off and theres wear at the very top I'll get pics and post. I'm sure the motor is gone, too easy to turn over.

I went to a friends over lunch and he has 3 cars, 2 cheapies and a T-Maxx 3.3. Well all of them have way more compression than mine, the 2 cheapies with pull start you can lift them off the ground with the pull cord. The tmax I couldn't get it to get over the pinch with my finger on the flywheel.

By these comparisions I've come to the conclusion that my motor is gone. New sleeve and piston coming for $50. Week or 2 to get it though. They had a motor there new without muffler that came out of a parts car they had(which I got the diff's out of) for $80. I'm just going to get the piston and sleeve and see what happens!

I'll post back in a bit when I get the pics!

Motor TOAST lol took the sleeve and pistion out and sure enough theres wear and when I put the piston TDC I can jiggle it a little, so its def leaking its compression around the pistion and won't stay running at low rpm.

Here are some pics.
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2/imag0051b.th.jpg

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7...g0050nh.th.jpg

Bought a new motor. Same one, just no muffler, or carb or clutch. $55 not too bad if I say so and he threw in a suspension ball!

Still fixing the origional one for backup!!

Hey all I found out what happened to my motor.

FALSE TUNE! Had Idle gap too big.

Although I put a new motor in, I sealed it b4 i used it. I noticed that the sleeve is a diff color all shiny not dull and the top of the piston has a bronzeish looking top unlike the origional motor, the piston is gray all over. and the sleeve is like dark colored.

Which one is normal? Do you think I should contact SH and complain?