Roelof

I think the 7812 will not work, it is no low voltage drop so it needs at least a stable 14.5v to work perfectly. But you came up to this so I advise you to take a look to the LT1084, it is regulated and low voltage drop, so you can make something adjustable between 6 and 12v or just a steady 12v and you can choose a 3, 5 or 7 ampere version.

I do use a Largescale differential heater, it is almost the same construction and runs perfectly on 12-14.8v

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

Roelof:

That would be a large savings if that regulator would work.

There are a few versions of that regulator. It is confusing but I would want one with the 12VDC and largest amp rating which I think is 7A. Do you have a link for that ??

I think the LT1083 is the 12VDC 3A-7A voltage regulator....is it not?? I aint an engineer, but dang!!
"LT1083 - 7.5A, 5A, 3A Low Dropout Positive Adjustable Regulators • Linear Technology"

I think the LT1083CP-12 is it, yeah??

Regulator Topology Positive Fixed
Voltage - Output 12V
Voltage - Input Up to 25V
Voltage - Dropout (Typical) 1.3V @ 7.5A
Number of Regulators 1
Current - Output 7.5A
Current - Limit (Min) 8A
Operating Temperature 0°C ~ 150°C

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

This is what I am looking at for getting the Competition Heat "Deuce" DC Nitro Engine Heater (12V). The 2 setups I will be using will be 1) pit table Heater: which will be the DC Competition Heater connected to my ProTek R/C "Super Pro 40" Five Output Regulated DC Power Supply w/USB (13.8V/40A/520W), with the Castle Creations 20A BEC Pro Voltage Regulator or LINEAR TECHNOLOGY - LT1083CP#PBF - IC, ADJ LDO REG 1.2V TO 15V 7.5A TO-3P-3 and Fischer Elektronik AKK 191 Heatsink ---> LINK to picture of "SKATER X's" design(undecided at this point if saving a few bucks on the Voltage Regulator), ProTek R/C 3S "Sport Race" Li-Poly 25C Battery Pack (11.1V/3300mAh, w/Traxxas Connector) 2) to use the Heater on my starterbox on pit Row. I requested a designated extra cord through Eric to be used on the starterbox which would be a strait cable configured to the 3S battery which will be tucked away clean on the starterbox. All in all, it would be between $175-$200 for the complete setup....Eric, you should DEFINATELY sell this fabricated cord with the Voltage regulator and make the cord an optional purchasable accessory. I think all the Competition Heater users would buy them in a heartbeat. I dont even have mine yet, but I know this is a long overdue investment to Nitro RC engines. I just dropped (Well my Girl did) BIGG Bucks on a Novarossi Bonito and am not going to turn it one single crank until I get this heater!!!

Roelof

Yes, that one can be the one, indeed there is a 1083, 1084 and a 1085, all 3 stands for a maximum current and indeed there are fixed and adjustable voltages. I do not think an adjustable is needed but in case of lower voltages it can be wise to go to 11.5v for the needed voltage drop.

You should messure the current, if it is about 4A you can also use a small resistor like 0.47ohm - 5 watt to lower down the voltage by 2v or simple some high current diodes (0.6v per diode)

Roelof

Do you need that power supply?

If you look arround I believe the Xceed PSU is adjustabele and there are more brands.

And if you want to save money, look on Ebay for a DELL SX270 PSU, this one is 12v with 12A and there is a SX280 PSU which delivers 12v with max 18A. I also use the SX270 PSU for powering my chargers and my heater, just connect the remote pin to the ground and it wil turn on.

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

I have a power supply. It puts out 13.8 VDC which I believe with not run the DC Competition Heat at its optimum efficiency.

ABN Hoosier

iTrader: (20)

Ok, here is my set-up. I went with the DC setup with a little homework. The biggest thing concerning me was to not over-volt the heater. I wanted to use it at the pit table hooked up to my power supply, but it put out 13.8VDC. I also wanted to run it off my starterbox battery, but the 4S lipo was putting out 14.8 VDC. So, I decided to do what skater dude did for the power supply 13.8 VDC and got a Castle Creations BEC and used the castle Link USB software I already had from my ESC Mamba Monster to regulate the voltage down to 11.7 VDC. I messaged Eric and he sent me a second cable with the Deutsche connector so I could have a dedicated cable on my starterbox. So I have the freedom to heat the engine while I am away from the pit table. Plus I can just use bananna jack cable hook the starter box to the charger and top the 3S Lipo back off when I return from my run. The wiring was kinda challenging, but I eventually figured it out. I drew a rough schematic for anyone interested. Had to do a little soldering. I got the rocker switch, which tells me when I am sucking juice from the LIPO and the heater is ON, and the 4mm jacks and connecting hardware from radio shack. The pictures below are what I came up with. I am finally gonna start the Bonito break-in now that I have the Competition Heat hooked up...Thanks Eric.


















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