Toro Nero Seized on me...
06-26-2011, 12:55 PM
#16
I think you are right. Really sucks bc I like this fuel. So question is, do I get an engine for my fuel, or fuel for my engine? I got like 10 gallons of the stuff, but if I have to rip apart my engines after every race day to clean them out, it's gonna be a pain in the ass. 
06-26-2011, 01:14 PM
#17
Its the fuel. The very same thing happened to me twice with S&W. The castor oil turns into glue when heated too much. I was told they made a new formula so this does not happen anymore but in the meantime I switched brands. All you need to do is clean off all the gummed up Castor oil and your engine will be fine. Oven cleaner works well on a rag, or you can send it out. MAKE SURE YOU ALSO FLUSH OUT YOUR CARB! The Castor plugs up the needles also.
06-26-2011, 01:31 PM
#18
Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
Originally Posted by portyansky
Originally Posted by THE PHILLY JYNX
was the piston varnished in the sleeve??? the novas dont like the standard TB becouse of the taper and pinch on the sleeve the side wall friction is very high and it reaches the flash point of one of the oils. Did you break this motor in with TB???I thought u ran JX motors? This could be the issue... if so a .99 cent can of oven cleaner will clean it up...I had to change the oil ratios around to find a combo that the novas like. running fat will also cause this and also a heat gun or comp heater can not be used. U can not use TB for breakin.......Brian
Last edited by J.Whiting; 06-26-2011 at 02:29 PM.
06-26-2011, 02:11 PM
#19
thats why you should only trust real deal fuel n engine designers. In all honesty ive seen brian n hambone struggle with engines more than just a few times, which is why I laugh when i see them giving engine advice online. if these guys are doing the testing/designing i would bail asap. nice guys but by no means should they be classified as experts.
06-26-2011, 02:34 PM
#20
A fuel with caster oil that turns to hard gum and locks motors up isn't a fuel I would run in my mill no matter how good of performance it gave. I would rather have a fuel that made less power but made the engine last longer.
If I was in your shoes I would try and give the fuel back for a refund. He says his fuel doesnt like heat or to be ran fat. So there is a very small window it sounds that it would work. Not worth it.
If I was in your shoes I would try and give the fuel back for a refund. He says his fuel doesnt like heat or to be ran fat. So there is a very small window it sounds that it would work. Not worth it.
06-26-2011, 02:48 PM
#21
All I know is that in buggy that I run a AB Modded JX21 I can get over 11 minutes with it. In my truggy I run a Power House Mod Toro Nero and I can get 13 minutes on a tank. I doubt im running it rich. I dont pay attention to engine temps, havent for the past 4 years. The only time I get temped is when my pit guys get curious. And the hottest I came off the track yesterday was 254 to see how long I can get on a tank, so it ran dry. 
Ran the fuel all last year, no issues, but ran OS based engines (JX21, Vspec). I think what Brian has wrote is the most honest answer any one can give. So I guess I have to make a choice if I wanna do the extra work after race days.
Ran the fuel all last year, no issues, but ran OS based engines (JX21, Vspec). I think what Brian has wrote is the most honest answer any one can give. So I guess I have to make a choice if I wanna do the extra work after race days.
06-26-2011, 02:56 PM
#22
I also have a few gallons left. I use it for practice now and then I switch to the Powermaster for the races. any other fuel you run will tend to clean out the S&W and the Castor oil that may be gumming up inside. I really loved the S&W fuel as far as power and run time I think its by far the best fuel on the market, but the Castor oil package they use has some issues to say the least. I was told they have since changed it, but I still have the original version and dont plan to buy any more. you have to be careful with it. Here are some major no-no's with the original blend (trophy) :
Do not preheat engine for more than a minute or 2
Do not bench tune your engine for extended periods of time
Do not use it for break in of any engine
It seems that extended periods of any type of heat will cause the castor to get sticky. The good news is it does not hurt your engine in anyway as far as I can tell, but it is a PITA and cleaning the carb needles is not a fun task. You should contact Brian or Stan and get the complete low down.
Do not preheat engine for more than a minute or 2
Do not bench tune your engine for extended periods of time
Do not use it for break in of any engine
It seems that extended periods of any type of heat will cause the castor to get sticky. The good news is it does not hurt your engine in anyway as far as I can tell, but it is a PITA and cleaning the carb needles is not a fun task. You should contact Brian or Stan and get the complete low down.
06-26-2011, 03:02 PM
#23
thats why you should only trust real deal fuel n engine designers. In all honesty ive seen brian n hambone struggle with engines more than just a few times, which is why I laugh when i see them giving engine advice online. if these guys are doing the testing/designing i would bail asap. nice guys but by no means should they be classified as experts.
06-26-2011, 03:05 PM
#24
06-26-2011, 03:11 PM
#25
eb mods fuel
06-26-2011, 03:16 PM
#26
06-26-2011, 03:17 PM
#27
I had problems with "gummy" fuel years ago when I raced onroad.
No such issues with VP Fuels now. Love the stuff.
No such issues with VP Fuels now. Love the stuff.
06-26-2011, 03:21 PM
#28
How long ago did they change the blend? I have a little bit left over from a purchase I made a couple of months ago and I have a competition heater on the way and now im worried.. Can the new TB be used with heat or is it still a no no?
06-26-2011, 03:23 PM
#29
I also have a few gallons left. I use it for practice now and then I switch to the Powermaster for the races. any other fuel you run will tend to clean out the S&W and the Castor oil that may be gumming up inside. I really loved the S&W fuel as far as power and run time I think its by far the best fuel on the market, but the Castor oil package they use has some issues to say the least. I was told they have since changed it, but I still have the original version and dont plan to buy any more. you have to be careful with it. Here are some major no-no's with the original blend (trophy) :
Do not preheat engine for more than a minute or 2
Do not bench tune your engine for extended periods of time
Do not use it for break in of any engine
It seems that extended periods of any type of heat will cause the castor to get sticky. The good news is it does not hurt your engine in anyway as far as I can tell, but it is a PITA and cleaning the carb needles is not a fun task. You should contact Brian or Stan and get the complete low down.
Do not preheat engine for more than a minute or 2
Do not bench tune your engine for extended periods of time
Do not use it for break in of any engine
It seems that extended periods of any type of heat will cause the castor to get sticky. The good news is it does not hurt your engine in anyway as far as I can tell, but it is a PITA and cleaning the carb needles is not a fun task. You should contact Brian or Stan and get the complete low down.
06-26-2011, 03:49 PM
#30
well
I say take the engine apart an soak everything in denatured alcohol for a couple of hours to make sure all the crap is broked down, and the dry it really good and reassemble it with plenty of oil...Put a new glowplug in it and use some good fuel. I use Byrons, but there are lots of good fuels. OD, Powermaster...I liked the old blend of powermaster but I hear good things about the vp version too...I would add one ounce of caster oil to it though....
then set the needles a little rich for a tank or two to reseat all the parts and run it. and the toro runs at about 230-250. Don't baby it.....and take out the copper shim and leave the two alluminum ones in there....
I bet ur engine is fine.....
then set the needles a little rich for a tank or two to reseat all the parts and run it. and the toro runs at about 230-250. Don't baby it.....and take out the copper shim and leave the two alluminum ones in there....
I bet ur engine is fine.....