whats faster than a ninja for a losi truggy
06-25-2011, 05:19 PM
#76
Originally Posted by abqNitro
Ive been doing pretty well with my modded motor
Which is the exact same engine that Maximo is running in his vid.. Also, one of the reasons for all of the wheel spin in Maximos vid is that, that is a brand spankin new track! How many brand spankin new tracks have you ever seen actually give you max traction? From what ive seen and heard from guys that build/maintenance tracks, it takes several years of sugaring and mixing to get the track soil just right.. Go into the ClockWorkRacing thread and take a look at the pics of the track, you can clearly see how loose that top soil is right now.. As far as a tune goes, Maximo is correct! Do you guys really know what tuning consists of or what the whole point of twisting the little screws is? It has to do with achieving the precise air to fuel ratio.. You have to have "X" amount of fuel for "X" amount of oxygen.. A lean condition is when there is too much oxygen and too little fuel, it will not make more power, but rather, it will cut out and lack power at the part of the powerband that is actually running lean.. A rich condition is when you have too much fuel for a given amount of oxygen. Which will cause a rich condition making your R/C bog down..
Which is the exact same engine that Maximo is running in his vid.. Also, one of the reasons for all of the wheel spin in Maximos vid is that, that is a brand spankin new track! How many brand spankin new tracks have you ever seen actually give you max traction? From what ive seen and heard from guys that build/maintenance tracks, it takes several years of sugaring and mixing to get the track soil just right.. Go into the ClockWorkRacing thread and take a look at the pics of the track, you can clearly see how loose that top soil is right now.. As far as a tune goes, Maximo is correct! Do you guys really know what tuning consists of or what the whole point of twisting the little screws is? It has to do with achieving the precise air to fuel ratio.. You have to have "X" amount of fuel for "X" amount of oxygen.. A lean condition is when there is too much oxygen and too little fuel, it will not make more power, but rather, it will cut out and lack power at the part of the powerband that is actually running lean.. A rich condition is when you have too much fuel for a given amount of oxygen. Which will cause a rich condition making your R/C bog down..Also keep in mind your running at nearly 6000 feet above sea level... That reduces the engines power by about 16 % .... If you were running at sea level the engine would make more power and consume more fuel.... The 25 works killer in Truggy at the higher altitudes, where some of the .21's struggle... With the 25 you do not need to run 40% nitro like many of the pro's running .21's do.....Your .25 on 30% is likely still stronger then the .21's on 40% and you likely get better runtimes to boot .... Its all about finding the right engine for the application......
06-25-2011, 05:27 PM
#77
Tech Addict
iTrader: (14)
Here's my humble opinion. Any quality .21 engine will do, unless you are good enough to run with the guys you see and read about in the magazines. Get a Ofna Jl .21 or a Werks b5 and run 30 laps w/out running down from the stand to flip yourself over. Fueling is OK 
. After that, more power is justified.
. After that, more power is justified.
06-25-2011, 06:02 PM
#78
Braddoc, listen to me,
When I first started in truggy racing I had a Losi 8ight T with a Dynamite platinum .28 . That was like using a ten pound sledgehammer to drive in a ten penny nail. I had to limit the carb slide opening to 1/2 or less to keep the tires from blowing up, the truck was always overpowered and could NOT jump as far as others who were running .21 sized engines. Your truck will only accelerate it's fastest when you don't spin the tires, a more powerful engine will not make up for poor throttle management, your problems will in fact be worse. I have already lived and learned this.
From the Dynamite engine I moved on to an OS VZB V-Spec 3 port motor, and gained on average 1.2 seconds a lap on the same truck, same setup. Doubles that I could not clear before were no problem on the smaller engine due to the truck not spinning the tires like it did before plus the higher rev range of the .21 meant the VZB pulled for a longer period of time which also helps, on a stock engine, generally speaking the bigger the motor, the shorter the powerband.
Finally, I switched to a Mugen MBX6T truggy and ran that same VZB and ran another 2 seconds faster with that truck and won my first race the first time out with the Mugen. Now keep in mind I'm a sportsman driver, I ran so fast on that combo that my lap times during that race would have put me qualifying mid pack in the pro class! The moral of this story is a really powerful engine is not always faster that a less powerful one and a really powerful engine won't make old technology as fast or faster than new technology.
When I first started in truggy racing I had a Losi 8ight T with a Dynamite platinum .28 . That was like using a ten pound sledgehammer to drive in a ten penny nail. I had to limit the carb slide opening to 1/2 or less to keep the tires from blowing up, the truck was always overpowered and could NOT jump as far as others who were running .21 sized engines. Your truck will only accelerate it's fastest when you don't spin the tires, a more powerful engine will not make up for poor throttle management, your problems will in fact be worse. I have already lived and learned this.
From the Dynamite engine I moved on to an OS VZB V-Spec 3 port motor, and gained on average 1.2 seconds a lap on the same truck, same setup. Doubles that I could not clear before were no problem on the smaller engine due to the truck not spinning the tires like it did before plus the higher rev range of the .21 meant the VZB pulled for a longer period of time which also helps, on a stock engine, generally speaking the bigger the motor, the shorter the powerband.
Finally, I switched to a Mugen MBX6T truggy and ran that same VZB and ran another 2 seconds faster with that truck and won my first race the first time out with the Mugen. Now keep in mind I'm a sportsman driver, I ran so fast on that combo that my lap times during that race would have put me qualifying mid pack in the pro class! The moral of this story is a really powerful engine is not always faster that a less powerful one and a really powerful engine won't make old technology as fast or faster than new technology.
06-25-2011, 06:27 PM
#79
why hasnt anyone asked what pipe he's using?? that will do more than buying a new engine. Ninjas have tons of top and power all around if combined with the right pipe. IMO there is no need to buy a new engines, faster engines will hurt you more than help you.
06-25-2011, 06:57 PM
#80
Originally Posted by jmaxey51
why hasnt anyone asked what pipe he's using?? that will do more than buying a new engine. Ninjas have tons of top and power all around if combined with the right pipe. IMO there is no need to buy a new engines, faster engines will hurt you more than help you.
06-25-2011, 06:59 PM
#81
Originally Posted by Herrsavage
So true..
I always liked this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvaCEEFRuW8
Dude is fast as hell... With a stock Ninja...
I always liked this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvaCEEFRuW8
Dude is fast as hell... With a stock Ninja...
that is an awesome video!
Great driving my both the truggy and buggy.
06-25-2011, 09:04 PM
#82
novarossi p5x produces alot of torque for low and the long stroke will also add to the low end, mid range torque. The 5 ports allows engine to come alive on long staights. fuel economy is just as important as all of the above during long mains. this motor will produce 7 minutes between pitts on 250cc tank.
jp3 pipe or dynamite hi torque will make the p5x come alive.
nova no longer offers this engine. however there are a lot these motors floating around unused. there good for four gallons before pinch or rebuild. Driving consistent every lap, every race will make you faster. a well tunned machine is about 35% winning mains. driver driver
jp3 pipe or dynamite hi torque will make the p5x come alive.
nova no longer offers this engine. however there are a lot these motors floating around unused. there good for four gallons before pinch or rebuild. Driving consistent every lap, every race will make you faster. a well tunned machine is about 35% winning mains. driver driver
06-25-2011, 11:39 PM
#83
Originally Posted by jmaxey51
why hasnt anyone asked what pipe he's using?? that will do more than buying a new engine. Ninjas have tons of top and power all around if combined with the right pipe. IMO there is no need to buy a new engines, faster engines will hurt you more than help you.
06-25-2011, 11:45 PM
#84
Originally Posted by Slider30250
Jmaxey, he's kinda past that point. He's stuck on the idea that a new bigger motor is going to make him faster. I don't think the pipe selection matters too much now.
06-25-2011, 11:59 PM
#85
06-26-2011, 03:37 AM
#86
So true
Originally Posted by Maximo
Also keep in mind your running at nearly 6000 feet above sea level... That reduces the engines power by about 16 % .... If you were running at sea level the engine would make more power and consume more fuel.... The 25 works killer in Truggy at the higher altitudes, where some of the .21's struggle... With the 25 you do not need to run 40% nitro like many of the pro's running .21's do.....Your .25 on 30% is likely still stronger then the .21's on 40% and you likely get better runtimes to boot .... Its all about finding the right engine for the application......
06-26-2011, 06:02 AM
#87
Originally Posted by R/C Lidz
I think this thread is pretty much useless now, BUT...
that is an awesome video! Great driving my both the truggy and buggy.
that is an awesome video!
Great driving my both the truggy and buggy.
06-26-2011, 08:04 AM
#88
Originally Posted by jbraddock
http://youtu.be/8CUUIUJ6GIw
its in my price range to...
its in my price range to...
06-26-2011, 08:18 AM
#89
Originally Posted by abqNitro
Ive been doing pretty well with my modded motor Which is the exact same engine that Maximo is running in his vid.. Also, one of the reasons for all of the wheel spin in Maximos vid is that, that is a brand spankin new track! How many brand spankin new tracks have you ever seen actually give you max traction? From what ive seen and heard from guys that build/maintenance tracks, it takes several years of sugaring and mixing to get the track soil just right.. Go into the ClockWorkRacing thread and take a look at the pics of the track, you can clearly see how loose that top soil is right now.. As far as a tune goes, Maximo is correct! Do you guys really know what tuning consists of or what the whole point of twisting the little screws is? It has to do with achieving the precise air to fuel ratio.. You have to have "X" amount of fuel for "X" amount of oxygen.. A lean condition is when there is too much oxygen and too little fuel, it will not make more power, but rather, it will cut out and lack power at the part of the powerband that is actually running lean.. A rich condition is when you have too much fuel for a given amount of oxygen. Which will cause a rich condition making your R/C bog down..
Which is the exact same engine that Maximo is running in his vid.. Also, one of the reasons for all of the wheel spin in Maximos vid is that, that is a brand spankin new track! How many brand spankin new tracks have you ever seen actually give you max traction? From what ive seen and heard from guys that build/maintenance tracks, it takes several years of sugaring and mixing to get the track soil just right.. Go into the ClockWorkRacing thread and take a look at the pics of the track, you can clearly see how loose that top soil is right now.. As far as a tune goes, Maximo is correct! Do you guys really know what tuning consists of or what the whole point of twisting the little screws is? It has to do with achieving the precise air to fuel ratio.. You have to have "X" amount of fuel for "X" amount of oxygen.. A lean condition is when there is too much oxygen and too little fuel, it will not make more power, but rather, it will cut out and lack power at the part of the powerband that is actually running lean.. A rich condition is when you have too much fuel for a given amount of oxygen. Which will cause a rich condition making your R/C bog down..
06-26-2011, 09:21 AM
#90
Originally Posted by Brandon Black
Im not going to try to explain to u cause u will not get it until u get a few more racing seasons under u. You stated u just started 4-5 weeks ago so come back here in a year more like 2 and tell everyone that you win races due to the insane power of your motor. No disrespect Neal I know u do good work, but It is a shame that a new racer that just started thinks he has the magic motor to make up for bad driving. Driving a insane power motor will hurt a new racer more then helping him, he may think that its helping but in reality it going to do the opposite.
Personally I think that everyone, including myself
, just needs to take a pill and remember that this is all for fun. Nothing is worth ruining that, thats for sure! Lets all just try to keep our internet experience positive and not turn it into a gang war on the forums
