JLock

iTrader: (4)

Good, honest evaluation on your experience with the Axial 21rr-1. Thank you for giving us this insight on the engine, a very interesting read. Let us know more as you rack up the tanks/gallons of fuel through it.

1BLADE1

well more good news to say on the Axial .21RR-1
so far on Gal. 3.5 and just keeps getting better........
now, like "ALL Motors" good maintance is a PLUS !!!
i know many will Atribute a good motor by "How Long" parts will last?
this could not be futher from the truth,
sometimes just can be hit or "Miss" like in all the Motors i have tried and tested and reviewed

i would recommend after about a gallon to a gallon and a half really go over the motor,and like all race motors it is a "Good Idea" to replace the Conneting rod,as motors get better and faster some parts can be more prome to wearing out a little faster "During the Break-In"
i have tried O.S. motors and the con rod goes in 3/4 of a gallon?
sometimes that same motor can go 5 gallons?
many will "Argue This" and that is Ok, maybe it worked for Those Individuals? but like the saying goes, "Luck Favors the Prepared"
all the motors out nowdays are really good,no question about them,
but during any break in it can put allot of stress on the connecting Rod,of ANY motor.......

like "Any Race Motor" think of it like this?
you have to replace your tires right?
same with the Motors there a "Mechanical Device" and parts can Wear out? just the Nature of the sport.......

so, after about a Gallon be a good idea to replace the Connecting rod
there "Inexpensive" roughly about 20.00 to 22.00
and check the Wrist pin and any other moving parts.

well so for last few races it has been a Pleasure just knowing this motor can hold a VERY Good Tune, once "Warmed-Up" will hold there Idle as long as needed, now what i have noticed after Breaking in one thing this motor best responds best to is letting it "Warm Up"
i see many just start the motor and BAM!! this can put stress on ANY motor....
like any motor
give this one at least 30 seconds to get a little warmed up if you have to get rolling early, even going easy on the first lap or so on the warm up laps, you'll be highly rewarded with a great lasting motor if you do......

so as i mentioned in a earlier post we have been mostly finding the limits of running in a truggy, can say with out a doubt this is one of the "FEW" motors out there UNDER $250.00 that can push a truggy with serious PUNCH and best of all run time.
so far on most of the tracks i have been on, were getting OVER 10 minutes of runtime,this in a truggy with good low end power from a .21 sized motor is somewhat rare, they are some but can be a bit of a hit or miss......
and fewer still you can just go into a Hobby shop,buy off the shelf,break it in, race tune it and have it run like a Hot-Rodded Mod .21 that is "STOCK" with no modification !!

the places where i race some have asked, does it feel like a .28?
no, that is a whole different Animal.....i can say however this "Particular" motor has a More Usable power band than a .28
and if you HAD to compare it to how fast it is? cause i know and it's always fun to see who's car is faster...
yes, it has some very long legs!!
i can not even comment how many have asked what it is i have in my Truck? as from the straight aways it does look pretty mean down the straight.......many still think i have a O.S. .21XZ-B "Speed"
no, it is a Bone Stock Axial .21RR-1

for those that may now already have one?
again any Tech Questions be sure to get in touch with the guys over at Axial ,
i hope to as well be able to provide them with more input as the weeks go by.......

and if your ever in the Area at Revelation Raceway come by and hit me up be happy to help with anything i can do to help

soon i am Hopeing to get my friend to get the Videos up soon so everyone can check them out.
Also we'll be at the TLR Series at Revelation this weekend for the Final round,if anyone is in the area and like to see it as well.....

rageworks

iTrader: (47)

Looks as though the quality of the SH engines may be getting
a little better. Still, I feel the price tag on this engine is way
to high for what it is. Just another re-badged engine with a
purdy cooling head.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Any more on your experience with the 21RR? Like your insight on what this engine is doing for you.

1BLADE1

for Rageworks,

as for it being a SH motor?
that would like calling a O.S. motor a cheap copy of a Novarossi?
or vice versa?
and at around $200.00 to $215.00 "Street-Price"
i am not shure what your Budget constraints may be?
but it's a pretty good deal,considering what the motors of this "Caliber" are "Asked to be Able to Do"
SURE i could get a $450.00 motor!
and ASSume it will work? it better at $450.00....LOL
and anything FREE is even better !!!!
but people say this is too much that is too cheap?
so, what is considered too much for ones "Budget"
and what is considered "Cheap" by the average Consumer??
would be nice to know the Guages people place by a given Consumer "Standards" cause i dont know myself....????

in the big picture all motors regardless of what anyone says are in many ways copies of one another, "Like it or Deny It"
but this is how the little Improvments are made from manufacture to Manufacture...so re-bagged? not anymore or any less than anyother motor including ANY or the Italian motors, Like it or "Deny It"
for the Head? a good proven design for many motors "Similar"
to others....deny the saying if you like?
but you know what they say? "If it Works,USE IT !!"
and for me out of the some 20 motors we have tried,and no i am not paid to try them? we do it cause i am "Courious"
and what i have found there is only 3 of the UNDER $250.00 that can hold there Own against any of the $300.00 and over motors.
and all i know, is this one "WORKS"



now back to the motor,
now i have been so impressed with this motor i decided,is it a fluke?
was it the one in a thousand production ones that can??
so i purchased another one.....
and the guys at Axial will confirm this,cause i bought it 4/14/11
so took the usual break in procedure,and decided to run it in the last series race.....now it was a little rich just a tiny bit,as i did not want to go all out,and maybe ruin a good motor!
but here is a link with the new motor,a "Bone-Stock" Axial .21RR-1
in my Losi 8T-2.0
http://www.youtube.com/user/devonboi.../2/Xfz4cL1eNH4
as you'll see the first fuel up(start) was the one that i was easily able to do 10 min.
now many have asked? ok but are you running extra fuel Line? or an extra fuel filter? or anything to hold extra fuel?
No, it is confirmed to adhere to all the current rules for the amount of fuel a car in this class can hold,
i mean what would be the point of proving a motor can do more than expected? it would not help sales if it could not??
so unlike a motor that has been modified or something "Special" done to enhance how long it can run? or power band etc.
this is a Bone stock motor one can go into any Hobby shop drop in your car,and have it run the same "once Broken In"

i did however flame out at around 9 minutes? (+/-) in from the PAST the first pit, my wife had told me after she was not able to get the full tank in, (we forgot the Fuel Gun at home!-Oops!)
even still was a tad rich,and not super-fully broken in....
but for a motor with just at the one gallon mark,which is where they start to come "Alive" i felt was pretty impressive.
also like to note,you'll also notice how easy it was to fire back up!!
many motors can be somewhat "Fickle" when they flame out during a peak,and under race conditions........
i was hoping my friend was able to get the one race with the fully broken in .21RR of me doing a 12min run, we had a 30min club night main and pitted once with a "Splash" at the 24 minute mark!!

over the follwing weeks going to post more of anything else i may come across for any perfomance enhancements i come across.

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Thank you 1BLADE1 for the continuous updates and video. I got mine in late last week and will be breaking it in soon. I have an engine break-in stand so I will do three tanks on it and the remainder in the car under load. On the stand, I usually cycle it in between 180 to 210 degrees with a little break between runs. My 21RR will be going into a Kyosho Inferno GT onroad car (buggy-based chassis).

1BLADE1

Ahhh, for a onroad application !!
i dont have a bunch of onroad experiance a "Little" but i have a older 1/8 scale serpent on road.
sometimes just like to go "Fast"...LOL
in any case, a good Mid-Range pipe here you'll probally want,but really depends on if your going to race or just have some fun
the ones i tried wih the .21RR were the Nova 9886 and the Nova 2015 pipes.......
both worked really well !!!
but if you have more "Off-Road" stuff,the JP-2 pipes will be super!
also a excelent pipe is the Losi RE10 for this application.
but for me and my driving style? or lack of in onraod...LOL
i personaly like the Nova 9886 but all those pipes work very well!!
the 2015,RE10 and the Jp-2 leaned little more towards the Bottom end of the Spektrum in the Powerband.
when you break in besure to follow the new revised needle setting.
if you have the "Turbo-Head"

for break in? you probally already have your Break in your comfortable with,so stay on that course
but be sure to "Pre-Heat" the motor first, at least get it up to around 200-210 before starting
this will really help!!




on a side note i have had a pretty fair share of some asking how i broke in my .21RR
well, i normally as well do the Heat cycle as well,and Vary tiny things from Motor to Motor...
the Last 2 RR's seemed to respond pretty good from the "First Start"
with Pre-Heating, then once i got them started kept the motor "Warm" but pretty rich at around 200-210 the usual.
on the first tank,to pretty much flush the motor with fuel and the oil from the fuel to keep it saturated.....
to keep it warm just got a old 1/10 scale tire foam,put it on the head,this way can get warm and stay there but still get a little air.

druning the usual heat cycle that most will probally do?
the only other thing i do,and most will mention to not pull full throttle?
but sometimes it's hard because? how do you know?
so what i do so i make sure not to pull full throttle
is with the motor off from the "First Tank" start up is good to do this,set the EPA on your controller so the throttle only opens about Half-way, this way you'll know just in case you want to keep pulling the throttle !!!....LOL
other than that i do pretty much like most....
hope this can help a little...if anyone was a little courious

JLock

iTrader: (4)

1BLADE1,

I will be racing min for sure. Here are a few pics of how I will be applying my 21RR. The cars in question are the Kyosho GT1 short chassis (pic of car without body) and the Kyosho GT2 long chassis (pics of car with blue body). I will take your advice on the pipes but if you know of a pipe that gives me good performance across the entire range (low/medium/high) would be a plus. Most tracks that I have run are about 250ft long by 100 ft deep, some free-flowing and some with technical infields (where you need more low-end grunt).

I believe mine has the turbo buttonhead. What are the revised needle settings for the engine? I want to make sure I do this right as far as breaking it in.

I really appreciate the updates you have been posting. Please keep it up and thanks for all the helpful insight on this engine. Can't wait until the next update.

1BLADE1

i'll try and get a pic posted here "Tomorrow"
in the meantime,the revised settings are roughly about 1.5 turns "Out" from Flush on the Bottom, and about the same for the top....so if it is "Flush" for the top end bring it out about 1.5 turns
but the big thing for the motor is pre-heating it

now here is something, i been getting a grip of mail on the motor.
many ask hey Blade,ok did the tuning thing for the Needles? but when i am about to run it it starts out low temp? then it just peaks at 280!!

now it's ok as all of mine did the same thing, was really Weird?
after putting around and the temps would be low?i would put it on the track,and was running at around 220-230 for a lap or 2 then BAM! would just "Peak" but right after it did? the temps would Colapse.....and would drop to around 190 to 200...then oddly i would have to bring it up to temp......
dont keep running it at 280 !!!
now here is the thing, be sure to use a good temp probe....
i had a few people when running the tests on this motor,telling me your at 275 or 290 or something like that?
well what would happen is i show up at a track? usually be by myself?
and usually r/c racers always like helping one another
so they temp my car? and be ok and then there probes would reach a certian temp and just go up or down?
but they were using there temp probes....i would come off the stand? temp it and only be around 242 or 248?? an average of a hard race tune......i use the "Exergen" ones....yes there expensive!
but a heck of allot less than replacing motors! and getting a good idea of what the temps "Are" on your motors....
for example as one individual was helping,as i always appreciate the help as he richend the motor it really ran bad? i thought must be at 240? or 230? as they would tell me was at 280 or higher?
when i got off the stand wheni temp'ed it was 160 !!!
so find someone that has a good probe so one can have an idea of if they need to add or subtract the readings......
i did find one break-in that was pretty good pretty close to what i do here is a link of the one i found his name is David Mills
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4miE6..._order&list=UL

1BLADE1

ok, here are the new Needle settings

Spads11

iTrader: (33)

What do your settings look like once it is broken in?

Spads11

iTrader: (33)

What nitro % and plug are in it as well?

1BLADE1

the settings will "Vary" from motor to motor,but they will be pretty close.....
Altitude, and some things will vary the needle settings, but mine as of now are about 3 1/2 hours "Leaner" on the bottom from the new settings....top end a few clicks as well.....
but i would not go by this,tune your motor to your track and driving style....tuning to your track will be much better
also how you break in your motor will make your needle settings a little different not a whole lot,but a little different,
i break mine in pretty much how the video of Mr. Mills does it...
some people will warm the motor up,idle a tank through it while keeping it warm,then let it cool then the next tank warm it up,then warm it up to Operating temps(engine running 160-180)
then drop it on the ground and run it slow never hitting more than Half throttle for the next 3 or 4 tanks, then race tune.....
when i have seen people do that the needle setting are "Different"
but, so far i have been now been working back and forth with the "Axial Crew" and with the engines i have used so far they been really good,in temps because the Piston has a little more "Silica" in it takes a little longer to break in,
one way to know when it is finaly broken in the motor will idle very steady for sometime...the trick is not having a idle gap too wide or too "Narrow" these 2 things i see too often, mostly a idle gap too wide to compensate for a over rich bottom end

an easy thing to do is get a Piece of thin solder "Squish it" so it is about .8 to 1mm wide......
in inches this would be about .04 in.
make sure engine is off but your radio is "On", and remove any Restrictors,and slide the Solder to the opening of the gap,adjust the gap from the "Idle Screw" so the solder is just touching,do this after you "Know the motor is Broken in" about 1 gallon is when these motors seem to "Come Around"
you can race them before this but there pretty "Sudden" when they come alive they kinda hit hard!! and they will sound "Different"
and for now keep the top end about one hour "Rich" just for now..
start and warm up your motor should be pretty easy to start by now...warming up the motor any motor really nowdays with higher Silica content is important,if you dont you could be chasing a tune?
so get the motor to a starting operating temp 160-180 etc.
the best is going to your track? but if not real easy to get to the track thats ok, make some runs with an "Imaginary Track"
and a straightaway only as long as the one you'll run on....i wouldnt hold it "Peged" for more than 200 feet !! this motor will keep Climbing !!! it will R-Out!!!
so take a few runs bring it in it will show being a little hot, but do keep it around 250 or so dont let it climb to 300!!
now adjust the bottom end just about a half hour if it is not "Idleing"
with out having to keep bliping the throttle,dont adjust more just yet, run it again for your lap or 2, bring it back and rev it a little to clear it out...let it settle.......if it doesnt want to stay "Idleing" give another half hour......
do this untill you get it where and all motors will do this Idle high for a sec, then settle and Idle........now back it out a "Tick"
now adjust your top end for the longest part of your track......
now temps will vary, i know everyone will say dont run this this high or this this low? "Every Motor Is Different" there kinda like people..LOL
i have one i wont move unless it runs at 250-255....??? at 210 wont move? 220 it's putt-putt, at 230 feels "ok" at 240 feels like it can move....at 250 BBBbRAaaAaahHHHH !!!!!!.......LOL will fling the tires off...LOL it's just a funny motor that "one"

my other one same exact one,at 220 runs the same?


this is some of the things "I Do for this Particular Motor" and most "Once Broken In"
very big thing for this Motor and on road guys will know this better than most, the Clutch!! be sure your clutch is in good working order!
or you'll be chasing a tune "Forever" any motor really.....

and example if even at "Idle" and the bell wants to move? change your springs and shoes......

i hope this can help for a little more Insight on this motor....

for Fuel ?? well everyone has there fuel choice....now this "Not" to say one is better than any others !!!
this is just what we have noticed "With this Particular motor"
but race blend fuels with 9% oils seems to work best....
2 fuels we have tried that are and the motors seem to work best "So Far" are the "WERKS" 30% and the Byrons 30%/w9% oil
O'Donnel fuel in 4 different motors they ran "Hot" and did not seem to "Clear Out" and peak at the top end as easy...???
now the "NEW" O'Donnel race blend was allot better.....

Plugs? here is another thing will vary....
but, so far myself Personaly i have been having great success with O.S. P5 and the hotter P4 (P4 is more like a "Medium-HOT" plug)
the O'Donnel 97T and the Werks #5 plug all of those seem to be Consistant........

again i hope this can help with any Questions anyone may have with this motor, hopefully soon the "Axial Crew can Chime in as well"

Spads11

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the info! I realize that all things being equal, things are different... but, some base info on what folks are using kind of helps with where to start maybe if one is having problems. I am just getting to breaking mine in this week and am still in collecting intel mode

I will post up what is working for me in the Texas heat and humidity as soon as I get to where it is broken in. Again, thanks!

Spads11

iTrader: (33)

And good tip on the solder at the appropriate gap width for the idle. I have been setting digital calipers at the appropriate gap and eyeballing it from there