deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

not really MEANT for you, but was just letting the PUBLIC know...you said your scared of a flame out at WOT?...either way i was not trying to offend anyone just giving my 2 cents.....lol...i hate typing cause it always sounds like an insult....

Lille-bror

+1½

Lille-bror

Haha. Yep, it´s so much easier to talk instead of write. So many misunderstanings can accour on the "paper".

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

if your motor revs up high then it is your idle!...if it revs for a long time its rich bottom and if it revs then dies quick then its a lil lean....this is not just my opinion its STICKIED in the TUNING BIBLE aswell...once again i hate typing cause i bet this looks like im arguing....

Lille-bror

Damn. I hope I'm not ruin this fine thread... With a proper tuned engine, the idlespeed will raise a little until the engine stops when you remove the fuel tube from the carburator.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Your engine will always rev up before running out of fuel. It is essentially leaning the engine out by not having any fuel to burn. Now we know when a tune is lean the engine will rev up. Same thing happens here for a very brief moment before shutting off. Nothing wrong with that.

I think the point that Lille-bror is trying to make is that it is more harmful for your engine to shut off at high RPM vs. idle. More RPM = more force on the internal parts(especially the rod) when coming to a stop.

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

correct!...but SHOULD NOT rev more than 1,000rpms higher then IDLE SPEED...sorry if i wasnt clear about that aswell...
ok now back to the thread!...i think just a lil bit that the more you OPEN UP a motor the more you are PRONE to get dirt in it then to if you only open it up ONCE in a while to lube up and check internals...but just my opinion

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

Don't do it in a dirty environment. That is a good point though. When you do open an engine up you need to be very careful not to get any dirt or debris inside of it. It is also important that you oil it well when re-assembling everything especially the bearings, rod bushings and P/S. There are some oils sold specifically for engine assembly or a good ARO will do the trick. Also remember to tighten the Head and Backplate bolts in a cross pattern.

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

Yup never will just drop off it will raise a tad then die my gaps are set correct.

dcracing

I hang mine wide open on the box until it flames, that way i know all the fuel is gone.

Matt2979

iTrader: (14)

Great point, but I think more commonly dirt gets into the engine through the carb. No matter HOW careful you are to oil your filters with the best and perfect amount of oil, and change them often.....don't take the filter off the carb if there is any dirt around it. I've seen folks remove the entire air filter assembly from a muddy buggy/truggy with no attempt at cleaning the car first! No good!!

Jaz240

iTrader: (52)

While we are on the subject of dirty engines. I can't tell you how many people I see change their glowplugs at the track after practice and don't clean out the cooling head first. there is a ton of dirt in there and as Soon as you unscrew the plug all that dirt falls right into your engine!
If you don't have time to blow it out first change your plugs with the car upside down so the dirt can't fall into your engine

Flanno

iTrader: (2)

+1 I see this at least once a month

I especially always do the highlighted section and always have, just out of habbit.

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Good advice right there.

Would your "if it revs for a long time its rich on bottom" be the same as a run on where the idle stays very high until you hit the breaks and then it comes down.

Also the most common tuning mistake people make is almost always they are lean on the high and rich on the bottom. No matter how much I know this I always revert back to this.

rotarynut

iTrader: (30)

I've been using K & N air filter oil, seems to do a good job, it goes on and gets absorbed by the filter pretty good...squeeze a little and done. I also add 1/2 oz of Klotz "Benol" racing castor oil to a full gal of Byrons Gen2 30% for a little extra insurance,some may think it's overkill but I want my HES tuned Nova to last a good long time,plus it smells so sweeeeet!!