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-   -   I have NO clue how to tune my engine.? (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/448401-i-have-no-clue-how-tune-my-engine.html)

Clairvoyant16 10-31-2010 01:35 PM

I have NO clue how to tune my engine.?
 
Can someone link me a good video how to tune right? thank you

tiger200350 10-31-2010 01:37 PM

http://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-...ing-bible.html

ALLSPEED 10-31-2010 01:37 PM


Originally Posted by Clairvoyant16 (Post 8146937)
Can someone link me a good video how to tune right? thank you

go into the engine section of this thread there is an engine tuning guide at the top of the page

houston 10-31-2010 01:39 PM


Originally Posted by Clairvoyant16 (Post 8146937)
Can someone link me a good video how to tune right? thank you

its gonns be alot of reading but in the end i hope you have gained some knowledge

tuning bible

first post of the tuning bible

i had that hpi video up on the tuning bible but for some reason its not there anymore

Roelof 10-31-2010 01:42 PM

On youtube there are some instruction video's from HPI, search for them and learn from them.

Clairvoyant16 10-31-2010 01:49 PM

Fml.. this sucks lol
well lets just point this out when i turn my car on it will shut off right away when i take the glow plug off.. idk how to start ill try reading that stuff

Roelof 11-01-2010 12:30 AM

Start with a new glowplug, that will solve probebly your issue.

Frank L 11-01-2010 06:49 AM

It can be very frustrating but be patient and ask for help at your local track. Most guys are more than willing to help. Just remember it's not impossible take your time and when all else fails return the hsn and lsn back to stock settings and start over. Good luck.

bevofrancis 11-01-2010 06:55 AM

The tuning bible they linked you has alot of info in it. for me it was very overwhelming at first. An easier way to start out with you tuning is the guide that Ron from werks made. It might not answer ever problem you could have, but it makes it much easier to tune for someone who doesn't know what they are doing. Since I started using it, my engines have run alot better then before. I'll copy and paste it for you.

"Set your HS and LS to flush, (or factory settings if it's an RTR engine) set your air gap to aprox. 0.5mm using your idle screw. Fire the engine up and warm it up for a few seconds and see how it idles. If it idles low this is your engine telling you it is rich on the bottom! Do not touch the idle screw rather lean the LS needle a few hours. If it idles high this is your engine telling you it is lean on the bottom! Again do not touch the idle screw rather richen the LS needle a few hours. Continue doing this, blipping the throttle between adjustments until you get a smooth, steady, consistent idle. Now your LS is set for the moment.

Once you have your idle/LS set put the car out on the track and run it around to get some heat in the engine/chassis. Now adjust your top end for the performance that you want using the HS needle. More than likely you are going to have to lean your HS needle and once you do this you will notice that your idle went up, this is your motor again telling you that it is lean on the LS. Just richen it a few hours until you get a smooth steady idle and you are done.

Using this system you can tune any engine (no matter how out of whack it is) from any engine manufacturer within about 10 minutes! The other really nice things about this system is that for you guys that live in areas where there are wide fluctuations in weather or humidity like down south. Say your engine runs great and seems to be tuned perfectly one day and then you go to the track a week later and it is 20 degrees cooler and your not sure what to do or how the weather change will affect your tuning.
All that you have to do is fire your engine up and listen to it and it will tell you!

Once you fire it up, listen to the motor. If the idle seems high then you know that this is caused by the weather change and because of the atmospheric conditions your engine now needs to be richened. Again using the system above you know that all you need to do is just richen the LS until you get a smooth, steady idle and then toss the car on the track. Do a lap or two and see how the top end is, come in and check the temp. As you engine previously told you when you listened to it idle that you needed to richen the LS it's safe to assume that your top end (HS) is probably going to be a little on the lean/warm side also. If so just richen the HS a few hours and let the engine come back to idle. Your idle will drop, so your engine is telling you that your LS is now richer (in the carburetor your fuel flows first through the HS needle then into the LS needle so if you adjust (richen or lean) the HS it will at the same time affect (richen or lean) the LS also), so just lean the LS a few hours to bring the idle back up to a smooth steady idle and guess what, your now completely tuned again for the new weather conditions! No guess work, no twiddling on needles not knowing if you need to adjust your HS, LS or idle stop screw. Just pure simplicity and all of it comes just from listening to what your engine tells you, not because you are some expert tuner that has been doing this for 15 years or anything along those lines. Hope this helps!"

I added the factory settings for RTR engine part. From the RTR engines I've seen they are way off from flush for the factory settings. This really really helped me to be able to tune my engine. Until I read this I was screwed, and always had to have someone tune for me. I'm still not the best, but I can at least keep my engine running and get some power out of it. Don't get me wrong, the tuning bible on here is great, but it was way over my head, and to complicated for someone who had no idea what they were doing.


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