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"the engine break in bible"

Old 04-04-2018, 09:43 AM
  #511  
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Even for less than 100 dollar.....
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Old 04-04-2018, 02:03 PM
  #512  
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Originally Posted by stephen_bess
The "Bess Method," has been fully replaced by the EBIS Method. I have one of the machines and it's amazing. No more hours in-car putting around and heat cycling for me or any of my customers anymore.
Stephen, you mean to tell me that your not missing spending hours trying to keep the temps up while running a lot of fuel through to clean everything out, endless temp taking, droning around-wanting to pull the trigger- but can't yet?

Me neither! Thanks bro, for doing our motors! It's so awesome to hand you a motor and you hand it back....done! Amazing service your providing!!!!
I haven't talked to you since i got my Samurai back, but your initial needle settings were so f'ing close to spot on, it was scary!! Just sayin!

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Old 05-03-2018, 02:02 AM
  #513  
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From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up;
i like the method alot, but i have an issue with it.. how am i suposed to tune it slightly rich? Untill i "tune" it i wont be able to know where "slightly rich" is, also to be able to tune it before finding slightly rich im supposed to tune the "HSN" which requires wot and listening to it and seeing the smoke and density, i need to at least hear it out at wot to know how far off from tune i am... how can i apply slightly rich unless i have a previously similar engine that i already know what the tuning of it should be....

Can i adjust the idle gap opening where it should be and tune the lsn , i can start from there at least... approx 0.8mm for 1/8th scale
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Old 05-03-2018, 02:15 AM
  #514  
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Bess Method? What is it?
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Old 05-03-2018, 08:54 AM
  #515  
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Originally Posted by b3master
i like the method alot, but i have an issue with it.. how am i suposed to tune it slightly rich? Untill i "tune" it i wont be able to know where "slightly rich" is, also to be able to tune it before finding slightly rich im supposed to tune the "HSN" which requires wot and listening to it and seeing the smoke and density, i need to at least hear it out at wot to know how far off from tune i am... how can i apply slightly rich unless i have a previously similar engine that i already know what the tuning of it should be....

Can i adjust the idle gap opening where it should be and tune the lsn , i can start from there at least... approx 0.8mm for 1/8th scale
It's "rich from where you are", you don't know if it will be rich at WOT and it doesn't matter, put it on the ground and take it from there.
0,8mm is on the high side for idle gap, but when it's new and tight it might be a good starting point.
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Old 05-31-2018, 12:49 AM
  #516  
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Originally Posted by 8T
Stephen, you mean to tell me that your not missing spending hours trying to keep the temps up while running a lot of fuel through to clean everything out, endless temp taking, droning around-wanting to pull the trigger- but can't yet?

Me neither! Thanks bro, for doing our motors! It's so awesome to hand you a motor and you hand it back....done! Amazing service your providing!!!!
I haven't talked to you since i got my Samurai back, but your initial needle settings were so f'ing close to spot on, it was scary!! Just sayin!

Jeff
Hey Jeff, thanks! Awesome to hear you're enjoying the break in service. Yeah I don't miss the old way of break in at all. I could do it if I had to, but why?!? Hit me up next time you need an engine done. And come out to Rods some time soon!

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Old 07-24-2018, 03:33 AM
  #517  
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Default Breaking in an SH .21 p3

After 20++ tanks of preheating (170 F) and running the buggy on ground (varying speeds and wot all while over 200-220) it still has so much pinch i cant turn it by hand, IF I do it WILL still get stuck!!.... do I stop preheating? Or do the final touches of breakin happen slowly?? (Slower than usual)... i now started to blip the throttle since i gave up on it loosening up on its own...
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Old 07-27-2018, 08:23 PM
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I've broken in a Kyosho engine recently (KE21R);the problem I faced was to keep the engine at below 130C recommended by the manufacturer; I had loads of smoke and the temperature was always up, and still is today. I have broken in the engine running the buggy, not on the box. Temperature was in the high 20s.
I read here people struggle to keep it hot, and not in the middle of the winter...
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Old 08-25-2018, 06:19 PM
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Just finished running 10 tanks through my new NOVA MITO 7 engine; I took it apart to look at the parts, and to check on the claim here that the conrod has to be replaced after break-in.
Well, there is definitely not necessary to change mine since the bearings on the piston pin and crankshaft pins are like new. The pins are polished and shiny, and the bearings are as tight as new; I don't know the size of the pin and the bearing bore so I cannot check but there is no play, just a nice slide fit.
My engine came "tuned" from the factory; I don't know what that means compared with the not tuned NOVA engines; however, the crankshaft was dynamically balanced and all cylindrical surfaces are ground; the fuel hole was ground too.
The sleeve ports have sharp edges and I took time to brake the edges, round and polish them. Other than that, I can see no other touch ups necessary. Probably the rounded edges will have just a minimal impact on the performance, but since I took the engine apart, why not?
The piston and sleeve have strong interference when cold (pinch, I cannot rotate by hand) and when warm the engine is hard to turn by hand too; pretty tight engine.
I di not do 3-5 minutes thermal cycling as I see no benefit of doing it; break in is a controlled wearing of the engine so the friction couples will mate each other: piston-sleeve, conrod bearing-piston pin and conrod bearing-crankshaft pin, something that they apparently did.
I set the throttle trim to 30% so I will not accidentally open it up completely and I used Morgan fuel, 20% nitro and 16% castor-synthetic mix. I preheated the engine with a heat gun before every start-up.
Some pictures below:












Last edited by kwhunter; 08-26-2018 at 02:54 PM.
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:31 PM
  #520  
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Originally Posted by b3master
After 20++ tanks of preheating (170 F) and running the buggy on ground (varying speeds and wot all while over 200-220) it still has so much pinch i cant turn it by hand, IF I do it WILL still get stuck!!.... do I stop preheating? Or do the final touches of breakin happen slowly?? (Slower than usual)... i now started to blip the throttle since i gave up on it loosening up on its own...
When you'll have no pinch, you will need a new engine; the "pinch" creates compression when the engine runs. For the record, the engine wears down from the very first moment you start it; break-in allows the parts that create friction couples to "mate", a controlled wear for new parts. Material is removed from the surface as the parts rub against each other and extra lubricity is needed to remove the heat and metal particles. When the surface of the parts is smoothed out as they wear in, you can use your engine at full capacity. But again, wear and tear is a process you can only delay but not stop.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:25 AM
  #521  
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Originally Posted by kwhunter
When you'll have no pinch, you will need a new engine; the "pinch" creates compression when the engine runs.
You think? On school, did you ever had any learning about expansion rates of metals?
The pinch that you feel when the engine is cold is for sure not there when the engine runs. Depending the chosen materials I know there are engines that feel a perfect compression w/o pinch or even a weak compression when they are cold but do run perfectly but indeed with most cold engines you must feel a kind of pinch.

True that from the 1st start the engine will slowly wear, you can expand its life by pre-heating the engine to lower the pinch with a cold start
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Old 08-27-2018, 07:54 AM
  #522  
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Originally Posted by Roelof
You think? On school, did you ever had any learning about expansion rates of metals?
The pinch that you feel when the engine is cold is for sure not there when the engine runs. Depending the chosen materials I know there are engines that feel a perfect compression w/o pinch or even a weak compression when they are cold but do run perfectly but indeed with most cold engines you must feel a kind of pinch.

True that from the 1st start the engine will slowly wear, you can expand its life by pre-heating the engine to lower the pinch with a cold start
I did not go to school as I had to work from a very young age so I missed that; but at least you agree with me on one point...
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:14 AM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by Roelof
You think? On school, did you ever had any learning about expansion rates of metals?
The pinch that you feel when the engine is cold is for sure not there when the engine runs. Depending the chosen materials I know there are engines that feel a perfect compression w/o pinch or even a weak compression when they are cold but do run perfectly but indeed with most cold engines you must feel a kind of pinch.

True that from the 1st start the engine will slowly wear, you can expand its life by pre-heating the engine to lower the pinch with a cold start
I see you're an expert, could you please explain to me and others here what means a "tuned" engine? I posted some pictures before of a tuned crankshaft.
Thank you.
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:44 AM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by kwhunter
I see you're an expert, could you please explain to me and others here what means a "tuned" engine? I posted some pictures before of a tuned crankshaft.
Thank you.
A tuned engine is an engine with higher specs than normally sold. Tuning is a same word like modifying.
Most of the time a tuned engine from factory does look the same as the standard version but the difference is with the timings like higher ports and/or a wider opening on the crankshaft. On a 14mm crankshaft a 3 degee timing is like 0.2mm more opening, you can not see it but you can meassure it and for sure notice it on the track.

Modified engines from a 3rd party modifier is taking care of the flow by rounding edges, cuts away matrial from the piston to make it lighter, adds extra lubrication ports and all other kinds of tricks. And there are some who also enlage the timings.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
A tuned engine is an engine with higher specs than normally sold. Tuning is a same word like modifying.
Most of the time a tuned engine from factory does look the same as the standard version but the difference is with the timings like higher ports and/or a wider opening on the crankshaft. On a 14mm crankshaft a 3 degee timing is like 0.2mm more opening, you can not see it but you can meassure it and for sure notice it on the track.

Modified engines from a 3rd party modifier is taking care of the flow by rounding edges, cuts away matrial from the piston to make it lighter, adds extra lubrication ports and all other kinds of tricks. And there are some who also enlage the timings.
Thanks.
They discontinued the NOVA Mito 7 and they have a 4 port version now. Looking at the sleeve picture, it has more than 7 openings, quite a complicated pattern. Not sure for how long it was in production and why they discontinued it, perhaps it has not performed better than the 4 ports that replaced it?! Definitely, the 4 ports costs much less to produce and sells for just as much...
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