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Old 06-16-2017, 03:10 PM   #496
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Originally Posted by DMC3D RC View Post
So the method in the traxxas manual is ok to use? I am getting my first nitro car and I really dont want to mess anything up...
The Traxxas method is okay to use for a RTR-grade engine. Don't use it for a race-grade engine. Also, I strongly recommend running the first tank extremely rich, too rich for the car to actually drive, because that provides maximum lubrication to flush out debris from the engine. Engines always have a little manufacturing dust left inside them, and the first run is also when the most debris is worn off the moving parts. You want those little metal particles to be completely covered in oil so they can't scratch anything before they get blown out the exhaust.
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Old 09-06-2017, 03:37 PM   #497
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Default Truggy 1st full tank

Hello I'm in the process break in my novarossi mitto 7 installed d8t truggy I decided to idle to first 4 tanks and I'm wondering if advice 4 tanks meaning 4 FULL TANK? also how long do does it take to finish one full tank? It seems mine takes around 1 1/2is hours to finish one full tank it seems to long haha I just to make sure im doing it right haha I don't mind it as long as I'm doing it right thanks
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:11 PM   #498
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Keep engine over 200 degrees at all times during break in. A heat gun/engine heater and a temp gun are crucial to do the break in right. I'm sure there is some different ways of doing this w/out the heat gun/temp gun. These items make break in much easier for me. In my experience a engine that is at idle won't get to 200 degrees.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:17 PM   #499
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Every engine I ever idled never reached 200 degrees and seemed to have a short life.
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:42 PM   #500
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I'm not an advocate of idling these engines for very long - long enough to stabilize the idle and I drive the darn thing. I have cheap RTR engines that have 8 gallons on them and still have pinch and they were broken in by driving them right off the bat. Coincidence, maybe, but it certainly seems to work for me.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:23 AM   #501
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I agree completely with just driving them sooner rather than later for sure. My one suggestion would be, perform smooth throttle increases for the first 5 - 10 tanks. If you if get a little too excited and start revving it up quick, you can skid your bearings. Everyone always focus' on the pinch, but bearing break-in is VERY important as well.
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Old 10-09-2017, 11:27 PM   #502
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See answers below, since you referenced my break in method!

Originally Posted by tfrankito View Post
So I've read everything I could read while not having my motor yet. I am new to nitro. I read this thread, the bess thread, paris sites on breaking in engines. My questions are:

1. Basically the first time you fire it up. Let it idle a bit to warm up on the box. Then throw it on the ground with short runs 3 minish. DO this for 15 minuteish.. This equals about 2-3 tanks? and am I slowly(1-2hrs at a time) leaning out the HSN every time I fire it up after letting it compeletly cool off between runs? or leave the settings alone? temps in the 200ish range..

15min total isn't going to be 2-3 tanks most likely, but the point is to get heat into the engine and then to let it cool. Yes lean the HSN each run, assuming you're starting with a very rich needle setting. 200F is great and should be a guide.

2. The second set running 3-5 min runs for a total of 30 mins getting up to 1/2 throttle.. am I still attempting to lean the HSN (still lots of smoke)? temps not to exceed the 200ish range?

Lean the needle as necessary to achieve warmer temps as close to 200f as you can get without getting he engine super snappy and reactive.

3. Now we are at about 6 tanks? I can now run it on the track for short burst full throttle for a few seconds...still leaning it out a bit? 200ish range?

Yes. By the point you can probably not worry about leaning it each tank, as it should be pretty close.

4.The manual for my engine pretty much says by 1liter I could be close to race tune? That's just over a 1/2 gallon. From what I read it the suggestion is to not race it or not run it hard until at least a gallon is ran through it?

0.5gal will get you close but 1gal will allow the engine to drop its nuts and regulate the tune. As the engine breaks in, the tune will change a bit. Usually the engine will richer up drastically out of nowhere when the tight mechanical pinch is finally gone. Then it's 100% race tune time.

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Old 10-10-2017, 04:15 AM   #503
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Heat cycling does nothing for a brass liner constructed engine. That process was invented and prescribed for ferrous technology engines (iron pistons in steel liners). Idling does nothing to seat the conrod bushings - only rpm can do that regardless of cylinder construction. This conrod is the most crucial part that needs to break-in - the bearings and piston seat themselves over time. The rod, rod bushings, and crankpin need to mate properly.

Start it up, get heat into it, drive it, don't run tank empty. Refill tank and repeat. No harsh throttle movements or WOT until the engine is thoroughly heat soaked - usually one full tank. When the engine is fully hestsoaked, everything is running at operating temp/clearance and it will take carburetor adjustments properly. It's not rocket science.
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:51 AM   #504
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Heat cycling is not for the brass but it does do a lot for the piston. Molecules will float arround making the piston grow and making it stronger. If you do not create cool down periods then you will notice some moments the engine suddenlu runs a bit heavy and that wears off after a few laps, thats the grow. With heat cycling you will have a more stable running engine.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:18 PM   #505
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I don't buy that. No offense.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:15 PM   #506
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Originally Posted by SlowLST2 View Post
I don't buy that. No offense.
It's crazy but actually happens, the metal particles in the cast piston piston and to an extent the CNC ones too group themselves and create crystalline formations, the piston gets bigger and a bit more porous too. Microscopically speaking of course.

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Old 10-11-2017, 06:56 PM   #507
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Some good reading here: http://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/c....php?cat_id=99

Here too: http://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/c....php?cat_id=10

Last edited by SlowLST2; 10-11-2017 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:56 PM   #508
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Is there a recommended operating temperature for REDS engines?
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