Try lean it 1/10 of a turn or even 1/8. I could be wrong because I haven't seen your engine running, so it's damn hard helping through a forum

If my engines has a "perfect" tune, they will idle nice and smoothly and they will accelerate nicely even when they are cold.

Probably just a cold engine loading up on fuel. If it runs perfect after it warms up then no need to be concerned.

Got a question.. So a few weeks ago I did my first truggy race in a while, running an RB Fire 11 in my RC8T. The engine was awesome all weekend. Never touched a needle, and temps, peformance, sound, smoke etc.. were all spot-on and constant.

So two weeks later I went to the next race, and it started cutting out.. I had a modded Nosram RS.21RR (rebadged LRP ZR.21X i.e. Picco P7 Evo 2/3) in my box, so I thought I'd just throw that in there and worry about the RB later.. And the Nosram was awesome too - through the qualifying rounds. Wicked power, good temps, smoke, etc.. I did do a clutch change, putting on a Mugen clutch, and had to put two big clumsy shims outside the bell, but its spins nicely, so I don't think it's an issue.. So I got to the semi, and off to a good start. But on one little jump, landing down flat, it cut out.. Then it cut out a few more times.. Then, on the last time, my pit guy was like "put in a new plug", which I did.. OD 97T, and it seemed fine for a few minutes.. Then out again. Eventually I just pulled it and gave up.. (C.rap too, cuz I was doing well..)

Anyway, my pit guy said he reckoned the engine had too much compression, and that I should add a shim to the head.. No idea about that. Have never really messed with head shims. So next I had to pit for him in the buggy semi, and he told me I didn't need to worry about his engine - "it never cuts out".. OK, everything going fine for his semi, then about 5-10 minutes in he cut out. And a lot of others were cutting out too.. Eventually a local engine guru came over and just basically told everybody to get away, and he just opened the idle, and after that everything was fine...

So my question is, do I really need to mess with the head shims, or is it more likely that I could fix it by just opening the idle a tad? It seemed that on this day - (which was a bit warmer than previous days I'd run the engines..) a bunch of cars were having cut-out issues, and based on what I saw happening, it seemed that the solution was just opening the idle a bit.. Probably even the same for the Fire 11.. I really think the tunes on both engines were quite good*. Any input? Thanks...

And oh yeah, if I do have to add a head shim, are all (.21) shims the same? I'm sure I have some somewhere, but whether originals from the Nosram I don't know....

* Here's a short clip of it at the beginning of the semi, before it started cutting out:

+ YouTube Video

My plus-4 did that for the first time a few weeks ago, freaked me out. But that motor was never started cold till then, my comp heater shit the bed so i had to fire it up cold and it did that very same high crazy ilde for a moment than became normal after a few seconds.

I have the same issue and it sucks, but i've come to the conclusion that i need to bump up the idle before my mains even my qualifiers. Seems to me that the motors are leaning them selfs out (reaching a higher temp) and thus lowering the idle on its own.. Usually i'll heat up the motor then go out but once the motor reaches it's ambient temp the tune changes. Idk i have some figuring out myself im sick of flaming out do to a low idle.

So after having all types of flaming and low idle issues on my Brand new Reds R5. One of the "professional" was ear hustling (listening hard) to my car and yells for me to bring it in. Steers at it for a moment, yells for me to clean it out a few times and proceeds to fatten my low end needle up two full turns. Apparently these Reds motors come fairly lean on bottom for break in....... Once he did that i had WAYYYYYYY to much motor, complete animal. Needless to say after that i was golden, no flaming perfect through out the day super smooth motor I'm in heaven. Guess he solved my problems, thanks Mike Alberti......

Awesome!

good job Mike!

I found factory settings for my Go Engine that say both HSN and LSN should be set to flush.

What does that mean?

Flush with the brass high speed needle housing and flush with throttle pull for slide barrel

What do you mean by flush with throttle pull?

The piece with the ball that your throttle linkage hooks on

Hey guys i am having troubles with flame outs or it being really rich untill i clean it out after coming out of the pits. But after i clean it out or keep it running it runs fine? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Anytime your engine leaves the pits rich or blubbering like it wants to shut off you are too rich on the low speed needle. Just lean the low end and you are good to go.

A hotter plug will also help. But the hotter you go on plugs the smaller your tuning window will be. Same goes for restrictors. Anything below a 6mm insert will make your tuning window quite small.

So if I change from a OS P3 to a P4 my engine will be easier to tune? What other changes would I see?

okay thank you!!