She's got too much captain!
 

Hyper .21 3 port ( I think)

I think i may have flooded the engine. A couple weeks ago i took off the cooling head and wiped a little synthetic ATF on the Sleeve and piston. Now when i try to fire it up, it just doesn't. P/S Wet and fuel/oil mix coming out of exhaust. How can this be cured and does anyone know the stock settings on the carb, i have read the manual on ofna's site but i was wondering if you had some good settings as far as running goes.

Take the plug out and turn it over either on a starter box or with whatever method you use to start it. The excess fuel/oil will come out the plug hole. Then reinsert the plug and go.

your plug is full of synthetic atf and possibly fouled ;)

do as suggested above , then use new plug

ATF
 

If you mean Automatic Transmission fluid??

I would try using standard After Run Oil.

This is recommended for Nitro engines.

Also, Maybe you can clean the glow plug off with a little nitro spray.

Be careful. Don't use the glow igniter right after. Let the glow plug dry

before igniting. If it doesn't work, get another glow plug.



Also, as some one said, clean out the excess ATF. I might stay away from

ATF in the engine.

I did turn it over on the starter box and excess came out. Even tried a new plug but that may have fouled too. If anything i think there would be nothing but fuel in it now. So maybe try another glow plug?

ALot of ATF's synthetic or Dyno have firction modifiers in them, which is grit, and it could very well could have messed up your compression..

Before you go any further, dissassemble engine, and rinse it well with nitro fuel..

Even if it's full synthetic?

Try another plug and see what happens. You might be rich on the needles and that could be the cause of it flooding, i'd lean out the hsn just a tad and see if that helps.

NORMAL NEEDLE SETTING
• MASTER NEEDLE - HSN) 4 TURNS OUT
• LOW-END(BLK) NEEDLE (LSN) -3 TURNS FROM FLUSH
• MID/LOW-END(BRASS) NEEDLE - NO TURNS

I've tried the stock or reset to normal running, and then adjusting from there. And what i've tried on the HSN is from 4 out all the way down to 2.5 out.
As for LSN, i've tried from 3 down to 2.5. I always double checked i was primed and that the plugs were glowing and now i'll try stripping it down and cleaning it and rebuild it to see if that helps.

Would it be okay to use a little bowl of the fuel i'm running to clean them in or what do you recommend cleaning the internals with?

Well try this first. Take the glow plug and back it out about 1/2 turn and then try to start it. Sometimes if the engine has too much compression it'll flood and not start up like it should. Just loosen the glow plug a tad, get it fired up and then tighten the glow plug back down.

I tried it and even reset the hsn to factory and went down to 2.5 and still nothing. I might have to take it apart.

Btw, thanks for helping me. :nod:

Well if no fire up then you have issues some where so do the rule of cancelation. Step 1 full dissasemble and clean then reassemble. Clean carb aswell and make sure ur nipples arent clogged. Once youve clean it all from crank to button, then install new plug and put some after run oil in it and work the flywheel back and fourth. Step 2 do the compression test, see if the motor even has life in sleeve still. Step 3 once all above has been done and all seems good put fresh fuel in it and try again, sometimes i will prime it and put a lil in the carb so it will start right up. If still no start then the atf has ate the engine beyond repair and it would be time to cut ur losses and learn from ur mistakes.

Yea, what do you recommend as far as cleaning the internals?

nitro fuel. I say nitro fuel because it wont harm the engine at all because its made for it. Im sure other stuff will work but the risk is bar none with fuel and the fuel also eats chemicals and gummy fuel. What i normally do is get a lil cup or old plastic bowl you dont use any more and i poor some fuel in it and lay my parts in it, letting them submerge for a while. After they sit in there just check on them and wipe them off. Inspect the piston/sleeve for scarring from possible dirt or grit and see if it causes resistance when putting the piston in the sleeve. I always say never use wd 40 or any thing on ur crank because if it has epoxy the wd40 will cause the empoxy to expand damaging the crank, im not sure what other brands will do this so just be careful with what you decide to use. Also if the motor still has life and you wont it to last after all this has been done i would say sealt the carb and backplate with engine sealent. Lucky 7 rc makes some and you can find others to.

Mmk. Thanks for all the help! I'll try to keep this thread updated after i tear down and rebuild the engine.

no prob hope it works!

Yea, or else it's gonna be put aside.

Took it all apart and scoped everything out. The sleeve has 3 hairlike scratches but except for that everything else was good. Rinsed and left the parts sit in nitro fuel, wiped them clean and put it back together and tried starting it today and no luck. (fresh fuel as well)

hmmm i would say engine is bad if nothing worked. Sounds like you did everything right just dont seem right. Even if it was tired it should start or try to. What did it do when trying to start just spin the whole time? Or did it sound like it wanted to start but wouldnt?

It's popping, and I have done some contemplating and i think my sibling may have touched the mid needle; which would cause major problems if so. Got new plugs so i may have to give it a shot.

Yeah i would say put it back to stock tune settings and make the idle a lil higher then see if it will crank, and new plugs will just get rid of any more issues. Sounds like a head ache that your goin through with this thing.

Yeah, tell me about it... :mad:

So i put the carb settings back to original factory settings (HSN and LSN)
as far as the mid, it's hard to see what the exact is* for the factory setting.
Anyways, i tried my best to return to the closest to factory spec as possible and still nothing. :cry:

*= Manual states flush with body

For the mid needle you can actually take the HSN casing off and look down into the Mid. There should be a hole open when you look thru where the HSN case was.

I'm not 100% sure on this but I think I remember seeing somewhere that the Mid needle is a 6 hour or half turn so that the hole is always open to the HSN. If that makes sense.

i would say just junk the head ache if its only a hyper .21. Not ganna loose much, if it was somthing more pricy it would be worth findint the issue but sounds to mw its a bad engine. The bearing in case feel good? If they do then idk ehat else to tell you to try.

as a last resort before tossing the engine... lean the lsn 1 whole turn from factory and then try to start, sounds like the engine is really rich. Sometimes the factory settings are way too rich, and also leave the igniter on the glowplug for atleaste 10 seconds before starting the engine.

I did that and we'll see what happens. The mid needle hole was just a tad off of the HSN case hole center.

Nothing.....left the glow plug igniter on for a little bit before i cranked it.

Gave up on hyper 21, got a novarossi n21r to replace it and i go to fire it up and the freakin' starter belt breaks. X[

At this point you need a heat-gun. Warm the block and head to about 180-200. I was thinking it might have worked on the dead mill but hay... New motors need heat for a good break-in.