I've been trying to purchase the nitro mizer from the web site but I dont have paypal. I emailed the admin and they replied that there should be a button says 'dont have paypal' but couldnt find it. Is there anybody that can help me here with the purchase? I live in Jakarta, Indonesia. Any alternative source for the item? Thank you.

Replied to your email a few minutes ago.....:)

Please ignore my post above, I managed to purchase with the help of CRE person by the name of John. He is definetely very helpful. Thanks a lot John. Cant wait to receive and try the items.

Good work John as always :)

Johnny! He's only reset my password 46 times! Lol!

Looks like you had a great run !!!!!!!! thank you for the video >

maximo

I contacted John about a shipping price to an APO address but I haven't heard back yet. I know he is traveling, but I need to order some of your new nitromizer inserts. Anyway you can help? I am just trying to order a set of inserts and a TKO ceramic front bearing for my NovaRossi BTTS

Sorry Matthew, I missed your email reply. Got it now and am replying back.

just out of curiousity not trying to impinge on the thread in anyway.

one would think that just using a 6-7mm standard venturri with the endpoint set to 80% full opening would do a similar job of these inserts.

or do the inserts povide a more of cramming effect or better flow to bottom end with the endpoint set lower then full open on say a standard 6-7mm.

and/or is there more air channeling in at less open (lower throttle) or (bottom end)

just curious on the principles of how they work.

Draw a football shape and a circle on a piece of paper. Put a ruler on the right side of the football and move it to the left. Notice how quickly you get a large cross sectional area. Ie: low throttle lots of air great bottom and midrange. Do the same with the circle. Same throttle pull much lower cross sectional area.

Also moving the majority of the air over the fuel inlet helps with atomization of the fuel. With normall Venturi majority of the air is off to left of the fuel inlet. Fuel dripping in, poor atomization.

Hope this helps..

Bill

Hi Neal. I will probably order a stock P5xlt from you but I have a few questions:
My current one has about 2 gallons and the rear bearing went. The guys on the forum said that since nova changed the rear to smaller balls it is expected to fail after this time. I ordered new ones from avid and the balls seem twice as big as the original ones...they should last much longer.
Do you know if the stock p5's you have in stock have the newer small balls?
I had so much trouble changing the rear, I screwed it up putting the new one in.
Would you be able to change the rear of my current one. It might have gone in slightly crooked?

Kyle McBride getting 2 minutes more run time out of his O.S Speed in the buggy and O.S 25 in the truggy at tracks that he had tested every stock venturi at should explain why these insert's are the way to go, you will get to see them first hand in the next week or so with insert's on there way from me to N.S.W driver's as Im typing this message, cheers Savage

Do you know which insert Kyle uses in his buggy/OS Speed?

The engines have the smaller balls........I can definitely change them for you...no issue there.............. Unfortunately I Am not so sure the budget replacement bearings will last any longer then the stock bearings...whatever killed the stock bearing will likely kill the replacement bearings just the same......In the end there is nothing better then a fresh bearing, small ball or big ball doesn't matter to me nearly as much as how fresh the bearing is..........

Thanks Neal,
I am an RC airplane guy and have never had to replace bearings after 2 gallons on my 15+ airplane engines. Also 16 years ago, I had an old Picco (that I still have) that must have had 8 to 10 gallons before I tore it apart and the bearing was still in much better shape then the one in my P5 after only 1.5 gallons?
Just seems odd to me.

I found my problem...When pulling apart the old bearing, I created small burrs on the inside of the crank case. I cleaned the ones on the side where the rear bearing sits but not the one in the crankshaft hole.
So when I put the crank back in, it was rubbing slightly on those burrs, giving me the impression that the new bearing was scrap!!!:rolleyes:

I feel like such a diouuush bag:cry: