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REDS Engines (Mario Rossi)

Old 05-11-2015, 02:00 AM
  #1396  
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Originally Posted by KyoshoRed
Got a question for the people that have ran or are running the Reds Quattro clutch setup. Do factory clutch bells work on that clutch setup or do you have to run Reds clutchbells? Really just wondering about the Kyosho MP9 setup using factory Kyosho 13t lightweight clutch bells.
if the reds quattro is the same as the fioroni quattro (looks absolutely the same to me), then the kyosho bells don't fit, they have different internal diameter.

fioroni or alpha bells fit with no problem, i use those.


and i don't know if reds quattro flywheel is 32mm, fioroni makes both 32 and 34mm
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:55 AM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by My ST-RR EVO
It looks like you're running a buku cap on there. Is that true? Those caps gave me an issue because the front bearing would suck in the dirt embedded grease over time and really cause drag in the bearing. The engine would not rev right as a result. That extra dirty you have on your engine looks ripe for the clogging. .. If that is a buku cap on there try removing it, cleaning the front bearing thoroughly and then running w/o the cap. Those caps are great add long as you do the maintenance.
Yep, we through everything we could at it at PNB when we couldn't get it to run right. I sealed the backplate and the carb as well as put the buku cap on it. People still say it sounds like it has a leak because the idle will occasionally climb while sitting on the box for no apparent reason.
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:50 AM
  #1398  
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which is why i bought the 13t clutch from reds to avoid issues..
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:20 AM
  #1399  
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I had the same problem with my r5t last weekend. Sounded great on the box but on the track I was getting no power and no smoke. Fattened up the bottom and the top. Messed with it all day and couldn't get it running right. Took it apart the next day and the piston was beat up on the side and the inner bearing was gritty. Amain has the whole drop in for $144. Don't feel like risking anything and ordered one up. Gonna use the old pin and rod for breakin and throw the new one in when I'm done. Ordered up the bearings from avid for around $35. Under $200 for practically a new Reds isn't bad.
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:17 AM
  #1400  
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Reds quattro flywheel. Is 32mm...also has a friend that is running one say hat stock mugenbells worked fine on his but I'll find out should have mine by next fridqy
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Old 05-11-2015, 05:43 PM
  #1401  
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I have a r5t and it's a season old. Had trouble last week with tuning and pulled it apart and saw scrapes on the piston. Ordered new p/s/r and installed along with new bearings. I've noticed from before and now that there's a strange buzzing and clinking sound. Like I said everything's new in it right now and still has the same crazy noises. Thought it was my pipe and changed it. Same deal. Hold the clutch bell and doesn't seem to effect the noise. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:04 AM
  #1402  
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx
I have a r5t and it's a season old. Had trouble last week with tuning and pulled it apart and saw scrapes on the piston. Ordered new p/s/r and installed along with new bearings. I've noticed from before and now that there's a strange buzzing and clinking sound. Like I said everything's new in it right now and still has the same crazy noises. Thought it was my pipe and changed it. Same deal. Hold the clutch bell and doesn't seem to effect the noise. Any ideas? Thanks.
check this:
before putting on the clutch/flywheel etc. pull the crankshaft out of the engine (so it can sit right in its place at the bearings) then put on all clutch parts while still checking if the crankshaft is pulled out all the way.
if you donīt do this, it may scratch on the rear plate.

second try:
main bearing failure makes noise.

*sorry for crazy typo, itīs my school english lol
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:59 AM
  #1403  
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You mean pulled in, right? So make sure the crank and bearings are pulled in as far as they go?
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:09 AM
  #1404  
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He means pulling the Crankshaft out (out of the motor)

I usually screw the screw back into the end of the crank so i can pull the shaft out with some force (something to hold on to) whilst seating the collet and flywheel assy



Dave
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:47 PM
  #1405  
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Originally Posted by rc skyline
He means pulling the Crankshaft out (out of the motor)

I usually screw the screw back into the end of the crank so i can pull the shaft out with some force (something to hold on to) whilst seating the collet and flywheel assy



Dave
Much easier way (esp. when engine is new) is to remove backplate and push crank with your finger while placing collet and flywheel. Just don't forget to move piston out of BDC before moving backplate out.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:15 PM
  #1406  
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It's not rubbing against the back plate. There's no scuff marks. Sounds like a bee buzzing in a tin can. Not sure if reds pipes just sound funny. I'm rebreaking it in now. It's 175ish and ran almost a full tank in 30min on box.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:30 PM
  #1407  
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Need some advice, just tore down my R5T TE to clean it and noticed that at TDC the piston seemed to hit a flat spot. This is without the head on. I can actually get the crank to hang up at that position. Anyone know what could cause this condition? I did notice there was some movement between the crank pin and the rod bearing. Motor has about 2.5 gallons on it and still has good compression.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:26 AM
  #1408  
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx
It's not rubbing against the back plate. There's no scuff marks. Sounds like a bee buzzing in a tin can. Not sure if reds pipes just sound funny. I'm rebreaking it in now. It's 175ish and ran almost a full tank in 30min on box.
I'm almost sure that with that sound the rear bearing is bad. Someone else had the same issue in "the other" Reds thread
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Old 05-15-2015, 12:39 AM
  #1409  
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Originally Posted by hyperfuxx
It's not rubbing against the back plate. There's no scuff marks. Sounds like a bee buzzing in a tin can. Not sure if reds pipes just sound funny. I'm rebreaking it in now. It's 175ish and ran almost a full tank in 30min on box.
i had this on a friends nova during run-in on the box, and guess what it was ??

it was just the fuel in the pipe from the engine running rich and the fuel made the pipe sound strange
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:09 PM
  #1410  
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Default R5R maintenance

Hey, have R5R, have about 17 liters on it, still
Runs good without problems, wondering when should I change front bearing, piston and sleeve, so I wouldn't be late and didn't ruin engine, what is mileage for piston sleeve change, when how to indicate that it should be done?

Another questiln, when change them, should I break in with old conrod and add new one after break in is done? I had one guu here whos conrod failed after 4 liters and red that here also some had problems with it...
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