Eivind E

I just don't see where these super conservative numbers come from..
I mean that sort of wear is not far off from what you see directly after break in is finished..

After about two and a half, three gallons, most engines will be way past this. Yet they continue to run fine for another three gallons, most of the time just need a new front bearing.

I'm confused by these numbers.
In my experience engines behave nicely with crankpins down to 4.88 and rods up to 5.10..
Once you get down to 4.82 crankpin is when rod failure is a risk.

So I'm curious where these numbers come from.. you'd have to buy a new crankshaft and rod directly after breakin if this were true.

NUDGE66

iTrader: (1)

Need some advice..
I'm planning to get a Reds Engine for my 1/8 Buggy..now crossed between the R7E and R5TE..
Whats the diff apart from price and quality?
The track i run in is short but plan to start racing soon..I'm using a Nova now and love these Italian stuff.. Will be going for a 4port clutch as well..

any input is much appreciated..

DaRaceMasta

id suggest the 5TE as its got more than enough power and is smooth and easy to throttle around the track and take the jumps with ease..

NUDGE66

iTrader: (1)

Thanx DaRace..

I can get both for about the same price.Brand New..

So the R5 is a better option or better engine? Race tracks here are normal longs ones..just the training track is short.

DaRaceMasta

well to put it this way.. our track here in liverpool LRRCC is pretty long with some twists and bends.. but with long lead up to a double jump.. and you really dont need the extra power.. i know it is tempting but assure you , i was getting the R7 but after running the TE2 5port i dont regret it at all.. with the HIPEX pipe and M manifold..

BigInJapan

iTrader: (18)

the R5tte and R7 are both the same quality (very high) so one is not necessarily "better" than the other, they just drive differently. the R5 is suited more for tracks with tight corners and big jumps straight after these corners, the R7 more suited for 'european' style tracks, where its a bit flatter, high speed and maximum torque isnt necessary. if you are using a Nova that has a softer power delivery down low and like it that way, the R7 is more suitable or use a soft throttle finger with the R5

DaRaceMasta

hehehe well said mr BIG

RevoUsa

Just received an R5R racer .21

Looking for any advice to the engine before I start breakin with

On a losi 3.0 buggy
30% VP fuel
Down in the Houston Humidity

Any advice ?

DaRaceMasta

as far as breakin.. keep it at around 110 - 120c = 240F -270F .. run 1 tank idle with rich setting on HSN for good lubrication.. blip intermittently in the 2nd tank.. on starter box.. 3rd drive on ground in figure 8 after that give it a bit more resistance on track.. 1/4 throttle... to help bed the sleeve and piston.. let the engine cool between each tank.. and preheat each time.. reduce stress on conrod and you should be sweet after 6.. then you can start tuning it for race but keep it mildly rich after 1L its RACE tune fun!.. mine runs like a dream.. screamzzzz

LightningStruck

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't run VP fuel. Byron ftw!

Stevo_SC10

Seemed to be easier to drive but also had the xs manifold on it fuel economy was the same as running the 2069 so wonding if i should try it with the s manifold. That would be more top end wouldnt it?

Adam-sweety

Hi Guys,

We have had a number of issues relating to the conrods in our reds motors.

I have 3 motors, 5TE, R7 and R5R. I ran in my 5TE and snapped a conrod after 4 litres of full. I then purchased an R7 ran the motor in and after around 2 liters, replaced the conrod, just to be safe. After around 12 odd liters, it snapped again, luckily not damaging the piston and sleeve. A friend at the track also managed to snap a rod on same day on his R5R almost identical to my picture. I have yet to run in my R5R but I'm concerned we are doing something very wrong. I have also purchased a new piston and sleeve for my team edition and also run that in again. I will change the rod now the run in is complete.

For the run in procedure, I pre-heat, and idle one tank.

Then I run a full bottle through the motor keeping temps around 90 degs. Doing figures of 8s with very smooth throttle inputs (no more then 1/4 to 1/2 throttle). Once done, I park the car, piston at BDC and let it cool.

I then re-heat the motor and run another bottle through it. This time on the track. I give small smooth throttle inputs with slightly longer burst as the fuel bottle begins to empty. Still keeping temps around 90 degs. You can hear and see the motor wants to be released. I don't lean out the motor after the break in period. I run slightly rich afterwards but the motor feels good with lots of power. I slowly bring the motor into race tune over a number of tanks.

During races I keep the motor around 110 to 120 degs and no more. We only really run the P3 plug with nitrolux fuel. I have not had any issues with my motors, no flame outs, constant tune, steady idle etc... only issue is the rods keep snapping.

I don't pre-heat my motor after run in. I hear two opinions on the matter. The mechanical pinch is already gone on the motor.
Can anyone give us some advise because I have not had these issues with my previous novas, os and alpha motors.

Thanks in advance.

DaRaceMasta

as far as i recall the shorter the punchier the bottom.. i have the M so it give power... across the spectrum..

OleC

The inside looked messy. Is that soot on the crancshaft?

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

you spun the rod bushing...what brand of fuel do you use ?