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REDS Engines (Mario Rossi)

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Old 11-01-2017, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by alfanna909 View Post
Can I run the r5t in my 1/8 Losi 4.0. I'm hearing different things. Some local racers say it was made for buggy or truggy. Others say no. The website says it's for both. Any info would be great
Yes, you can run it in buggy. It is intended to be used in a truggy, so just be prepared for a strong running engine with a ton of power. Let her rip!
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:34 PM
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Cool thank you for the response. I picked one up for a good price so I'll give it a go.
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Old 11-13-2017, 01:29 AM
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So, what is this "High efficency system"?
Looks to me like there is a reduced bore in the crank shaft? An insert?

http://www.neobuggy.net/2017/11/09/r...cy-ltd-engine/
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Old 11-13-2017, 06:17 AM
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reduced bore = less/slower fuel flow = smoother power = sometimes more runtime.
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Old 11-13-2017, 02:48 PM
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I was hoping for something a bit more revolutionary when they called it a system.
But I would guess that a reduced bore crankshaft (shape of the bore probably plays a significant role here too), along with other adjustments to maximize this effect, would qualify as a "system".
Borderline Xray terminology though... ;-)
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:56 PM
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nitro engines are fairly rudimentary devices, so a true revolutionary "system" is probably not going to happen. If the torque stays the same while the powerband feel has changed, i'd be willing to accept the terminology
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Old 11-21-2017, 05:26 PM
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can someone tell me the difference between the "Reds R5T" and the "Reds R5T Elliot Boots Edition"?
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Old 11-23-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jkas10 View Post
Yes, you can run it in buggy. It is intended to be used in a truggy, so just be prepared for a strong running engine with a ton of power. Let her rip!
I ran it in my buggy...with my truggy pipe setup and it was just sick. Lot's of power. I put a different pipe on to tame it down a little and still was just strong. Strong through out the whole power band. When I put a different pipe on it muted that but had plenty all the way around.
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:06 AM
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I bought a WR7. Any tuning tips/needle settings that people can share? I'm having the break-in done by the Drake with EBIS.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:31 PM
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New REDS engine teased on their site. Seems to be a long stroke
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:46 AM
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Default Reds r7 evoke 4.0

Hello everyone from Spain. I bought a reds r7 evoke 4.0 engine. I would like to know your opinion about this engine. right now he has 3l and the engine consumes a lot of fuel.
What is your fuel autonomy with this engine? thanks and sorry for the language
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mlax View Post
I bought a WR7. Any tuning tips/needle settings that people can share? I'm having the break-in done by the Drake with EBIS.
Just to bump this, anyone with some tuning advice, setting bands?
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by manuelvigo View Post
Hello everyone from Spain. I bought a reds r7 evoke 4.0 engine. I would like to know your opinion about this engine. right now he has 3l and the engine consumes a lot of fuel.
What is your fuel autonomy with this engine? thanks and sorry for the language
We have always had good fuel mileage with the R7. My son is hard on the throttle, so we never tried for 10 minute pit stops, but by calculating run time, we were almost always getting between 8 1/2 - 10 minutes per tank.

I will assume that you have made sure your clutch is maintained, the car is not binding anywhere in the drivetrain, and you are running 6.5 or 7 mm venturi.

It may not yet be fully broken in. It will usually suddenly run really rich when they fully break in requiring you to lean the needles to get the tune back. That will improve your mileage.

If you think you are fully broken in, then I recommend re-tuning the high speed needle after the engine has been warmed up completely. If it is not reaching a nice clean full high pitch, it is too rich and hurting your mileage. It should not run on to a high pitched thin sounding whine - that is too lean.

Then work on the low speed needle. If the engine runs on at a high idle after a clean full throttle pull on the box, then drops to a normal idle RPM after a few seconds, it is hanging up on the idle screw and then lowering because the bottom is too rich, hurting your mileage. Back the idle out, and turn the low speed needle in. Try two back-to-back wide open throttle pulls and let off. Keep making these adjustments until the engine drops immediately to a normal idle, or has just a couple seconds of a slightly higher idle that drops to normal. It should not sound like it is really rich or blubber much at all when pulling throttle after it has been idling for five or six seconds.

In summary, the engine may not be fully broken in, it may need to be re-tuned and it's getting poor mileage because the needles are not set right.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mlax View Post
Just to bump this, anyone with some tuning advice, setting bands?
Great engine! I don't think Adam will adjust the needles, so it will be set rich from the factory. I don't have any measurements of how far my needles are from flush, but they are pretty close to flush. I set the tune as described in the post above this one.

It is imperative that you properly pre-heat the engine to avoid any damage when starting a cold, tight engine. Then, run it on the track, or on the ground for a few minutes to get it up to operating temperature. I do my "check" tuning on the box to be able to hear what the engine is telling me and to have easy access to the needles. Then, fine tune again while on the track ever so slightly if needed.
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:22 PM
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OK thank you very much
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