Is it an aluminum carb with no heat insulation ?

did you try using another temp gun to see if your's reading correctly.. i had an issue with my temp gun was ready 180 on my grp back in the day.. and i leaned it out to get it up to 210... but then it flamed out.. used another temp gun and it was 290.. and this was after i got from the track.. about 10secs or so... so look into that..

my temp gun was dirty at the sensor.. i just cleaned it and readings were great after that

Why not try a old grp carb and see if it still vapor locks? Amain has them in stock still for cheap.

Have you verified the temps with more than one temp guage?

I would send the carb in to be looked at. Something doesnt sound right. It could very well be a manufactoring defect. I wont give you the whole " my two motors have never done this, you must be a newb speech" Send it in have them take a look and I Know if there is an issue they will remedy it. Roy will chime in here in a few minutes and get you straight.

Thanks
 

I don't want to sound too negative, thanks for your help, I will try your suggestions.

MBXSIX - I think you need to start all over, take your engine/pipe tank, lines out, clean then all up....

1. Chuck your current fuel lines and cut some new ones, make sure your pressure line is at least 6 inches

2. Check you tank for leaks, make sure the lid seals, if nothing else.....put a new tank in

3. CLEAN you pit area, and then clean your engine, once again...clean your pit area again, and take the engine apart and clean everything.

4. Using some red afterrun oil, reassemble the piston sleeve...etc pay close attention to detail, make sure everything fits correct

5. use some sealant and seal the back plate also making sure the o-ring seals correct

6. Take the carbator apart and make sure all the orings look good, reassemble with some oil and put back to stock settings, use some sealant to seal the carb to the engine

7. Next reinstall the head and allow to sit at least 24 hours to allow the sealant to setup.

8. Put the engine back in the car along with the fuel tank and new fuel line

9 install your pipe with new gaskets

Tuning - hot plug

1. Many are using hot plugs, or even with a p3 plug

2. prime the engine good and check for any fuel leaks

3. fire the engine up and allow to warm up for a while, warm up before a race/practice or what ever is very important, this ensure a good tune and helps your engine last longer, it should sound pretty fat on the bottom

4. after warm up take some easy passes and check your top, lean out until it cleans out nice down the straight, once you go one hour lean and it doesn;t change, got 1.5 hours fatter and leave the top alone

5. the bottom should be on the fat side with a hot plug so keep going fatter until you can tell the bottom is going away and then adjust your idle.

6. in 90+ degree heat the engine should top 220, in 70-80 degree heat the engine should be 205-210 tops, at the end of 10-15 minutes.

Yes!
 

I did finish out the weekend with a old GRP carb I got from a friend. It worked alot better. Thanks everyone for their advise. I like the temp gun issue, thats a new one on me.

so is the new carb not insulated at all ? did they seriously use just an aluminum carb body with no thermal protection ?

kgombe beat me to it...

I hate to make a blog of this, but I really want to help the few guys that have had some issues, as well as those who may run into the same.

The first batch from the factory came with a black hardened steel insulator, to help structurally keep the carb firmly in place. Most poly-insulators get worn by the pinch bolt over time, causing the carb to move in it's seat, eventually causing leaks, erratic performance, or requiring goopy sealants. The TQ carb was also modified from the GRP version by cutting cooling fins on the main needle side of the body. It was also built for longer run-time by using a longer LSN, which means it inherently runs leaner on the low-end, unless you keep it on the rich side and not run too hot (of a plug).

However, because I also suspected the steel insulator was the culprit for potential vapor-locking, I aksed Rody to send me a carb with a poly-insulator 2 months ago. I tested it in the heat of summer when the outdoor temps were in the high 90s. Rody warned me that if I overheated the motor, especially when it still has tight pinch in the p/s, it would still vapor-lock with the poly-insulator, making restarts difficult until a cool-down period, and he was right.

So again, not until I got my low-end richer, stop using the O.S P3 or OD97T plugs, and stopped screaming the motor down the straights until the 2 gallon mark, or until it lost most of its pinch at TDC, I have not seen it happen again. Now she screams to no end, and stays cool. I no longer use a temp gun, because they all read somthing different, and can influence unnecessary adjustments. Just look for a smoke-puff at corner exits, and a vapor trail that never runs out down the straights. You'll know if you are over-reving, because the engine will speed up without the car speeding up. Just don't do it. It creates unnecessary heat and wear.

To be on the safe side, we have requested from the factory that all future carbs have the poly-sleeve insulator installed. We will also try to get some extras to take care of the very important but few customers who have the issue. I know it's frustrating, because it happened to me. But please be patient, and send your request directly to [email protected] , so the service and warranty department can take care of you.

The carb does have a thermal insulator. The problem is some guys are running the engine too lean and too hot. Just like the GRPs, these motors love to run cool. My brother's GRP usually temps out at 190-200 after a 20 min main with the proper tune. The TQ has one less cooling fin, thus the temps will be a bit higher.

Like Roy has said before, these motors do not need to scream down the straight for proper performance. MBXSIX, maybe I didn't catch it but how old is your motor?

TQ Engine
 

Have a new engine for sale in the forsale forum. Great Price

Cape Fear East Coast Invitational
 

I'm headed this weekend to the first annual East Coast Invitational at Cape Fear Raceway, near Fuquay Varina, North CackyLack. I see many people from the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast US signed up. It should be fun. I think we will have two other TQ Engine drivers there also, including Blake Whitehead and Evan Vail.

It's not too late to sign up or drop by, if you'll be in the Raleigh area. TQ Engines is one of the event sponsors. Check out the track on the website below.

http://capefearraceway.com/

Reviews
 

Hi. I was wondering if there is somewhere I can read a review on the TQ Racing

engines?? Both if possible.


Is there something on Neobuggy.net or RedRC.net?

Thanks

I am interested in the TQ engine,but, I recently race my electric against a Werks

Racing B6 and the B6 was able to walkaway from me. I had him on the bottom

end, but, could not keep him at bay on the straights. Let me know what

you folks think.

P.S. I have RB concepts engines and I have Werks as well. I don't own

anything new from either company. Can you help me out..

Thanks

There are no media reviews that I know of. But if you would like to see reviews by actual customers and racers, then pull the engine up on amain hobbies' website. I've seen several there.