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Old 03-02-2010, 08:16 PM   #16
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Where can you get the three bond 1211 from auto zone ETC??? Thanks speedyrob.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:30 PM   #17
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Where can you get the three bond 1211 from auto zone ETC??? Thanks speedyrob.
atvpowerplus
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:46 PM   #18
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I dont see how that GE silicone in the link above can come close to the proper crank fill?
The GE 118 should work fine; Reid wouldn't recommend it otherwise.

GE RTV 116 may also be an alternative (same as 118 it appears; but red and good to 500F)

118 is good to 400F.

I had a tube of the Shin-Etsu red, self-leveling RTV and have used it plenty of times without failure. It's the Japanese "hard to get" stuff; got it from Reid.

I'm not sure why it's so hard to get though.

The self-leveling products may not be for everyone as you have to make yourself a level jig/fixture that can hold the crank for several days while the silicone dries. You also have to "pour" the product; since it's about the consistency of warm/room temp honey. Getting the proper amount takes a little finesse but the end result is perfection.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:08 PM   #19
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Ya, I guess it says he tested it ? So Im sure it probrably works fine. He would know , since he is in the business. Its good there is something else out there that works, that is more redilly available....
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:14 AM   #20
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The GE 118 should work fine; Reid wouldn't recommend it otherwise.

GE RTV 116 may also be an alternative (same as 118 it appears; but red and good to 500F)

118 is good to 400F.

I had a tube of the Shin-Etsu red, self-leveling RTV and have used it plenty of times without failure. It's the Japanese "hard to get" stuff; got it from Reid.

I'm not sure why it's so hard to get though.

The self-leveling products may not be for everyone as you have to make yourself a level jig/fixture that can hold the crank for several days while the silicone dries. You also have to "pour" the product; since it's about the consistency of warm/room temp honey. Getting the proper amount takes a little finesse but the end result is perfection.
the Japanese stuff is so hard to get due to the fact you have to order a case(20+ tubes) and reid told me that the shipping time takes month's as they themselves order it from somewhere else and wait on the shipping.

Rich had bad thing's to say about 1211 but i call his bluff as i know dozen's of people from modder's to just overly concerned user's about leaks....imo its the best nitro proof sealant out there BAR none.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:38 AM   #21
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hey guys hate to jump in the middle of your convo here and show my noobness but what are you refering to with filling the crank..im asuming the crank scoop? what does this do and why??
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:42 AM   #22
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hey guys hate to jump in the middle of your convo here and show my noobness but what are you refering to with filling the crank..im asuming the crank scoop? what does this do and why??
When they mill the hole/transfer port in the crank the bit is blunt on the end. Your intake port from the carb is on a angle. By filling the crank at a angle that matches(as close as possible) it helps flow. Think of it as matching ports on head. Most top engines do this already. See the pics in the earlier post.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:36 PM   #23
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It's been argued back and forth whether it's actually beneficial or not.

I've never seen any data to prove whether it is or not.

Having run certain engines both filled and not; I do think it helps them pick up cleaner/smoother out of the bottom and into the midrange. High RPM I don't think it matters too much.
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Old 03-03-2010, 03:30 PM   #24
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I don't think much of the performance comes from the ramp. The reason modders do it is to lighten the crank, they drill back almost to where the front bearing sits. Then refilling it with a lighter material to keep the crankcase volume similar. I would not recommend just putting some silicone on there without drilling, the possiblility of coming loose is more likely with a thin coat. It would be hard to drill a crank without a mil or a lathe.
Novarossi just leaves the hole there on alot of motors and says there is no performance difference. Probably because in a factory filling the crank is a time consuming process.

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Old 03-03-2010, 04:22 PM   #25
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I don't think much of the performance comes from the ramp. The reason modders do it is to lighten the crank, they drill back almost to where the front bearing sits. Then refilling it with a lighter material to keep the crankcase volume similar. I would not recommend just putting some silicone on there without drilling, the possiblility of coming loose is more likely with a thin coat. It would be hard to drill a crank without a mil or a lathe.
Novarossi just leaves the hole there on alot of motors and says there is no performance difference. Probably because in a factory filling the crank is a time consuming process.

Rex
+1 It's more about lightening the crank than anything else. The silicone just fills the "empty" space that is created by boring the crank so that the crank remains the same shape it was stock. It does make a difference(meaning the boring). Not sure it would make a difference whether you filled the space or not.
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:43 PM   #26
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The silicon can also act to decrease crankcase volume.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:21 PM   #27
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The silicon can also act to decrease crankcase volume.
A filled crank does have a minor gain in low end throttle response but suffers a minor loss in fuel mileage . Also a filled crank has better off throttle idling capabilities meaning it comes down to idle quicker and more regulated than the non filled/drilled cranks .

I would say that the gains are probably not even noticeable to most and possibly not even on the dyno .


I myself prefer a properly filled crank
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #28
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A filled crank does have a minor gain in low end throttle response but suffers a minor loss in fuel mileage . Also a filled crank has better off throttle idling capabilities meaning it comes down to idle quicker and more regulated than the non filled/drilled cranks .

I would say that the gains are probably not even noticeable to most and possibly not even on the dyno .


I myself prefer a properly filled crank
I have done a little testing on this subject in my day And you are right houston as far as not seeing much on the dyno . Lightening a crank and then refilling it back to the same or very similar crankcase volume doesn't really show any real power gain from my testing.... And yes I have a dyno that tells these type of things.... This dyno doesn't have an opinion, feel or preference.. So therefor it is what it is and there no butt dynos or ear dynos or finger dyno variances You more so can feel these changes in throttle response etc as you stated. We are in full agreement there it seems.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:27 PM   #29
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I'm with Houston.

And the only reason you'll see a *significant* decrease in mileage is if you fill incorrectly.

My vote is for Reversion. It makes it easier to flow both directions. If done correctly it's not a big deal. Done incorrectly; reversion can attribute to the loss in mileage pretty significantly.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:04 AM   #30
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I know this is a pretty old thread. My wife picked me up some RTV118 made by momentive not GE. I was researching crank filling and accidentally added the rtv to my amazon cart and my wife ordered it without checking with me. I love my wife!!!! She lets me have my fun on the weekends and doesn't complain too much. So, I have the stuff and want to try it out. Spec look the same as the GE.


Some mentioned letting this stuff dry for several days? Wouldn't a 24 hour cure be fine. Also, are Nova cranks considered already drilled so I can just fill it? I have a new plus 4 I want to fill myself.
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