Originally Posted by geforce

yes it was without the backplate .

i managed to rid of the friction though when i tighten up the werks flywheel it isnt as free spinning.

i need to tighten up the nut real tight so the flywheel doesnt slip.

when i spin the flywheel it only spins once like a 360 turn and if i turn it with my hand it feels better then before mnore (loose)

though it doesnt spin free like a clutchbell does. is that normal?

its from the flywhell nut tightening up pulling the crank pressure on the inner of the bearing which is pressure on the balls from the inner of bearing being pressure pulled . lol is this normal?

Originally Posted by scrapsz

Hey their Rob...nice to hear from you. Last we spoke you were struggling a bit with your health. Was thinking about you over the holidays, gosh I hope you're doing better these days. Sure miss racing with you, we always have a blast.

Well said...slick indeed. And to think we should all have electric smooth trigger fingers by now, right?

Originally Posted by am

Thats because the 9853 is not EFRA/IFMAR leagal. It has not been for many many MANY years. That is why the PRO drives does not use it.... Outside the US anyway .-)

Originally Posted by Maximo

there is no contest Monty.... your pipe choices are why you and others think this engine is soft on the bottom end....... 2084/41005 was horrendous dude, you recommend this to people and its no wonder they all come back saying the engine is soft down low.....

Originally Posted by hambone

Rising up from the ashes, lol. My piss and vinegar levels are rising again finally. Health is good now and '15 is looking good for racing thank God. Hope you're doing well buddy. I'll be seeing you at LCRC.

Originally Posted by scrapsz

You made your point Neal, many times on this thread.

Most tracks in the US don't have the grip of yours or 160' straightaways. I've tried your combo on a tuned Bonito and stock Keep-Off XLS...the truggy was undriveable, the powerband was simply retarded. Oh sure, it had bottom, top, mid, upper, lower, and everywhere in between power. I re-clutched and while it helped the power was too much for the surface even when the moisture/grip came up. If I was drag racing or on a very, very high grip track treated with sugar or such , then maybe but otherwise such a pipe/header combo would be a waste of money. I'm not the only one, there have been others in my region who tried and went back to the recommended 9901/021 setup. Is is ideal? Maybe/maybe not...but it works very well for me and my driving style which is fast but not overly aggressive.

Be nice...humility is your friend.

Originally Posted by Maximo

As i said before...if you wish to neuter the engine down for a slippery track then run the other pipe combo's recommended here.....However not everyone runs on skating rink like conditions, some even run on traction like us... I seen your posts stating how the P5 has stronger bottom then the Bonito and that is only due to your pipe choices and nothing else..... As when each engine is setup to its fullest 2058 on P5, 9886 on Bonito ( Stock Bonito ) the Bonito has much more grunt then the P5 does off the bottom end....On our conditions a stock Bonito on a 9886/41001 will barely spin the tires in a truggy, the power feels smooth and linear from bottom to top......I was actually surprised how nice the stock engine pulled down low, it has wicked grunt for a .21

Originally Posted by RC-ZOMBIE

Hello, can anyone help with a recommendation on a pipe/manifold for the S21P5XLT engine, it will be going in a truggy. The only pipes I have now are WERKS 2058 and 2013 if I could use either of those that would be great!
Thank you

Originally Posted by Sean Pryce

You wont go wrong with either of those pipes. I think you'll find that the 2013 is more aggressive, and that the 2058 is has "nearly" the same power, but is smoother and has better fuel mileage.

Originally Posted by scrapsz

I think I follow you. The flywheel will never spin as freely as a clutchbell due to normal resistance from the engine bearings, conrod, piston/sleeve, etc. New engine bearings will have more resistance than well run engine bearings. If there is no binding or gritty/rough feeling when rolling over the flywheel I say install the engine and run it easy for the new bearings to seat themselves. At that point you could remove it and check the feel again. Hope this helps.