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Originally Posted by RevoUsa
(Post 10603722)
Been reading most of these pages and I'm having some what of the same problem.
New 2012 (black case) P5xlt has about a 3/4 gallong through so far. I've been trying to lean out the low end and reducing the idle gap as I go. I have the idle gap almost completely closed. It is about at a .4 for gap setting. I'm afraid it will stall eventually so when is the gap to small ? It will not hold a HIGH idle unless I raise the idle gap ! when tune is close run the car for a good tank but take caution then stop car about 20 sec then try and accelerate away if its clesn the bottom is close then run it on the straights see if it has good smoke ratio try this if i havent confused you |
Originally Posted by Lille-bror
(Post 10600515)
Remember, that the JP3 pipe doesn't give any Novarossi engine a good mileage.
talked to him on the phone today Bjarne let him know what the deal is on the jp-3 and which pipe he should get , all is good |
has any one used or tried the ae 2035 on there novas mainly the btta
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I need some help. I have a btt with 2.5 gal though it and it still has metal pintch. It's making in very difficult to tune. I'm running 30% powermaster with c6tcg. Has anyone else exsperinced this?
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Originally Posted by Scottyh
(Post 10605180)
I need some help. I have a btt with 2.5 gal though it and it still has metal pintch. It's making in very difficult to tune. I'm running 30% powermaster with c6tcg. Has anyone else exsperinced this?
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Hi, I was wondering about the novarossi ball link connector on the carbs.
I have a 21-4C, and I measured the ball connector with my calipers, and it read out at 3.9mm. The OS ball link measures 3.92mm. Am I all cross-eyed, or is it fine to use the same plastic connector for both these engines? (I really don't want it to pop off in the middle of a run.) |
Originally Posted by Scottyh
(Post 10605311)
Well took the carb apart to find the bottom o ring on the top end needle is disentagrating. Pieces of black oring are down by fuel inlet probably causing restriction.
Hopefully you got it figured out bro :nod: And no that not what i would consider normal |
Originally Posted by Eivind E
(Post 10605976)
Hi, I was wondering about the novarossi ball link connector on the carbs.
I have a 21-4C, and I measured the ball connector with my calipers, and it read out at 3.9mm. The OS ball link measures 3.92mm. Am I all cross-eyed, or is it fine to use the same plastic connector for both these engines? (I really don't want it to pop off in the middle of a run.) |
Originally Posted by psr
(Post 10604198)
has any one used or tried the ae 2035 on there novas mainly the btta
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Is the novarossi c6gtc plug the same as the Losi nitrotec plug c6tgc? Looks like a main is out of the nova c6tgc and I need some plugs! I ask because Losi lists it as "hot" but I thought the nova was more a medium plug no? Thanks
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best pipe for a P5
Whats the best pipe for a P5XL?
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Last ditch effort before I bail on Novas...
I bought 2 4 Btts engines and keep flaming on competitive runs. I've tried everything and think I have it nailed and them whammo... flameout on my run.. this usually happens after about 4 mins in. It seems as soon as the temps get to 240+ I get the flameout. I try to do my best to tune it at that temp but it was hard to do this weekend at the Canadian National even. ( was 60-65 deg and damp). I wasn't the only Nova driver that was having issues. I was offered an RB semi sponsorship but I really want to stick with Nova... Please offer me some help! |
RB in made by Nova Rossi. There is a simple solution. What are the details? I live east of Toronto. People have problems with all brands of engines. It's interesting to watch people tune there engines. There are so many possibilities. Fuel tank, lines, air leak, clutch, Tune etc....
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Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10609885)
Last ditch effort before I bail on Novas...
I bought 2 4 Btts engines and keep flaming on competitive runs. I've tried everything and think I have it nailed and them whammo... flameout on my run.. this usually happens after about 4 mins in. It seems as soon as the temps get to 240+ I get the flameout. I try to do my best to tune it at that temp but it was hard to do this weekend at the Canadian National even. ( was 60-65 deg and damp). I wasn't the only Nova driver that was having issues. I was offered an RB semi sponsorship but I really want to stick with Nova... Please offer me some help! I'm sure others can chime in with good tuning advice, but one thing I have found out by plain trial and error is that these engines don't like to run lean on the HSN. Usually flush or a quarter turn in from flush has seemed to work for me on the P5. Could be your lsn is a bit fat as well and it's loading up on you. Is it mainly flaming out at the end of straits? |
Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10609885)
Last ditch effort before I bail on Novas...
I bought 2 4 Btts engines and keep flaming on competitive runs. I've tried everything and think I have it nailed and them whammo... flameout on my run.. this usually happens after about 4 mins in. It seems as soon as the temps get to 240+ I get the flameout. I try to do my best to tune it at that temp but it was hard to do this weekend at the Canadian National even. ( was 60-65 deg and damp). I wasn't the only Nova driver that was having issues. I was offered an RB semi sponsorship but I really want to stick with Nova... Please offer me some help! |
nice to see a quick response!
Engine has about 1 1/2 gallons through it. ton of pinch on it. i had 3 flame outs... all after jumps. I changed the line, bearings and even the plug, fuel tank, gaskets and the car was very free. Here are my current needle setting... 4 turns out on LSN 1/2 in from flush on HSN. Keep ideas flowing... |
Originally Posted by beidle99
(Post 10610012)
How about the pipe? I read on the clockwork thread about someone that changed motors, clutches, fuel lines, tanks, etc. Only to find out that at about the 3 min mark, the gumed up oil inside the pipe was heating up and closing down the pressure outlet. not allowing the tank to pressurize and the motor to run lean and flame out. Just a thought.
Maybe time for some crock pot antifreeze boiling. |
What buggy is it? Is it possible that the flywheel touched the ground. I've seen stranger things happen. Chassis flex and flywheel touching the brake or something ?
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Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
(Post 10610182)
What buggy is it? Is it possible that the flywheel touched the ground. I've seen stranger things happen. Chassis flex and flywheel touching the brake or something ?
Mugen MBX6r with BCE X3 chasis ( short rear brace installed. Spur Gear meshing is pretty good so there is room for chasis flex. Maybe I'm landing on the flywheel? That would be pretty unlucky to do this 3 times in 1 day though. it is possible.... I'll look into that. What about tuning... At what temps should I perform the tuning? 200? My engines usually run about 235-250 but I tune at 190ish. Would it make ha much of a difference? |
Try running a tank all the way through if possible and then tune. Just to make sure you are up to full operating tempature and the crankcase and chassis are soaked with heat.
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P5 pipe
pipe suggestions for a P 5?
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Originally Posted by Blakeh44
(Post 10610313)
pipe suggestions for a P 5?
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2096/41021 or 9901/41021. I've been using 9886.
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I do not like the 9886 on the P5. The 9901 is better IMO. The 9886 feels funky on the bottom.
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Originally Posted by beidle99
(Post 10610305)
Try running a tank all the way through if possible and then tune. Just to make sure you are up to full operating tempature and the crankcase and chassis are soaked with heat.
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Do the BTT engines operate at lower temps...on average than previous Novarossi engines?
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Originally Posted by air8
(Post 10611116)
Do the BTT engines operate at lower temps...on average than previous Novarossi engines?
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10611402)
they temp higher as the probe sits closer to the plug when temping ;)
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Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10611830)
What's the best way to temp the Nova? what is max temp from the top of the cooling head? Can you offer any advice on this? When things started to really feel and sound good I temped the motor at 260. I richened it to be safe but then started having some issues. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by Luckylouse
(Post 10611830)
What's the best way to temp the Nova? what is max temp from the top of the cooling head? Can you offer any advice on this? When things started to really feel and sound good I temped the motor at 260. I richened it to be safe but then started having some issues. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by air8
(Post 10611116)
Do the BTT engines operate at lower temps...on average than previous Novarossi engines?
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has the Roma landed anywhere? has anyone gotten there lucky hands on one yet, i am ready!!! :^)
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I thought I saw someone had gotten them in- and had 1 left. Not sure who it was though.
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10599094)
i got 1 ROMA unspoken for , will ship it today and you could be the first in the racing public to have one :nod:
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10611402)
they temp higher as the probe sits closer to the plug when temping ;)
With HSN near flush and LSN out from flush, performance is great with slight smoke and temps 180-190F. It just seems like the BTT's are going to operate at lower temps.
Originally Posted by freefallmarine
(Post 10611955)
Lean her out bro!!! Hour of power remember?!
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Originally Posted by air8
(Post 10613269)
Okay. Are you home tomorrow. I think I jeed a council call on this one. At about one turn down from flush I start getting the lean stutter sound at full throttle. Temps only showing 215F. So I keep fattening, performance gets better, and temps go well below 200F.
With HSN near flush and LSN out from flush, performance is great with slight smoke and temps 180-190F. It just seems like the BTT's are going to operate at lower temps. Go big or go home buddy. |
As far as I know the fuel is fresh. Recently purchased. No telling if it's been on the shelf for a while.
How did you find out the fuel was the issue? The engines run strong and consistent...just run cool. Weird to me. |
Ok guys...
so this is what I'll be doing this week... 1. Boiling 2- 9901 pipes and 2 - 41029 headers in Crock Pot with Anti Freeze for 24 hours. 2. Changing all of the fuel line to a different manufacturer. 3. tear down both Engines. 4. Inspect and change all necessary Gaskets. 5. Start with these needle settings... LSN- 4.5 out, HSL - 1-2 hours above flush. 6. I'm going to film the entire process and post it here.. Hoping to prove the this Site can help out when a RC fanatic is in Dire need. Let me know if there is anything else. I'm also thinking of picking up the M2C quick change engine mount so I can swith engines and keep the same meshing at all times. Thoughts? Are there other quick change mounts that you would recommend? |
Originally Posted by air8
(Post 10613693)
As far as I know the fuel is fresh. Recently purchased. No telling if it's been on the shelf for a while.
How did you find out the fuel was the issue? The engines run strong and consistent...just run cool. Weird to me. |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10611857)
let me say some very well known ;) drivers run their novas with the new LOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW head upwards of 270°=290° :D
What fuel do you recommend? I bought 4 Gallons of Works " Clocked" fuel but it seems like the castor oil in it is think when the oil if coming out of the pipe. Likes it's gumming things up... Could this be the cause of my issues? I know Neil speaks highly of this fuel... and I trust his advice too... but I'm just trying to pin point any possible issue... I also had issues late last year keeping a tune with Byrons Gen 2 30%... with 11% lub. |
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