Sorry but this can not explain it now who knows more about the Novarossi engines and is within the subject.
In my opinion the Legend 4 is a good choice.


PJ

Hi. I have a Clio and i would like to no how they compare to a Mito 4 and how the mito 4 and 7 are different on the track. Thanks

II have no experience with the mito line of engines. I do have experience with the purple head line of similar engines. The 7 port Nova engines consume more fuel and have more bottom end power. A 4 port engine is smoother/more mid range to high speed, and much better on fuel.

Some people would consider the 4 port a buggy engine and the 7 port a truggy engine. Personnally I really like the 4 port in both. When paired with a pipe with midrange power bias, having enough power is not usually a problem.

Ok. Thanks for the info.

glow plugs
 

So what's the deal with the c5tgn plug? It says that it is for all conditions, wondering if it is an better than a c6tgc.

Yeah c5tgn is for all conditions. But then again the c6tgc works for just about everything too, even in hot weather.

Just bought a Bonito 21-7xlb/a. Ran a used Nova for my last motor and loved it considering it was pinched 3 times. The only downfall was that my tank only lasted about 7.5 minutes. I assumed it would make it atleast 8 and ran out leading the amain.

So my question is... how do I get this thing to run top notch with good run times? Do I send it to someone (seems like that's what the fast guys do)? Sell it and get a different motor? Or what?

what is suggested for pipe on a keep off 21-5 7xls in a truggy. i was thinking 9901 with a 41005 header but also have a 41021 i can swap on if its too punchy

Nova Rossi 9853 w/41021

Not a bad pipe to have...But like Chris said the 9853 or even the 9886. Both are awesome pipes and suit the trucks really well. Use the 41021 header for good all around performance, but if you feel the need for more low end, the longer 41020 helps. More mid to top end use the 41001.

i lent out my 86 pipe damn. ill start looking for a 53, id imagine my 2013 would be too much on the bottom and the truck would run out of lung on the straights.
new motors are always fun

Wondering if someone can tell me what my problem might be....

Engine is a P5XLT with 2 gallons of 20% on it. HSN is just barely out from flush, LSN is out 2 turns from fully IN.

After it gets up to temp and heat-soaked (approx 230 degrees).....

It runs fine but I get a pretty long 2-stage idle and when it drops down it wants to stall, so I have to kinda keep it running. By blipping the throttle though, it seems to idle up, then down, and generally erraticly. When the engine is colder (180 degrees approx) it runs fine and seems to idle better.

I have been all over the place with the LSN and idle screw and can't seem to get this to stop. It likes to load up at idle too so it smokes quite a bit if you let it sit for 10+ seconds, then take off, yet if I start to lean the LSN it will 2-stroke when I'm on the track....particularly after going wide open down the straight.

Any ideas from what I have described?

This could be several different things but lets start at the basics. How long have you been using the same glow plug and how much fuel have you burned through it? May need to change your plug. The settings you described on your needles are backwards. You should start with your LSN at flush and your HSN about 4 turns out. You need to set your idle screw at 1mm gap AND NEVER TOUCH IT AGAIN. This is a big mistake most people make when their tune gets outta whack and they think its an idle issue when its actually improper needle settings. Once idle is set you should never have to mess with it again. Always set your HSN first and then your LSN. If your idle hangs after a WOT run then your too lean on the HSN. If the idle comes down then goes back up its too lean on the LSN. With your needles set backwards the LSN is way too lean and the HSN is way too rich and is trying to compensate for the improper LSN setting. Also, what you're describing can be an air leak. Have you sealed the engine back plate and carb base? And check your fuel tank cap seal. If its not sealing properly you will get an erratic tune that cant be fixed without solving the air leak problem. Check all your lines and fuel tank.

More info would help... like which glow plug, type of fuel/oil... tuning issues can be caused by a lot of things but if your lsn is leaned out that far and still loading up it leads me to believe something is out of whack.

1 mm idle gap is way too big....and really the idle gap is something that does change as the air density changes... the idle gap is often one of the first needles I tweak as the climate changes....pretty much the worst thing someone could do is set a 1 mm gap and leave it there, make the engine pretty much untuneable as it would have a non stop high idle ....

3 points:
- lsn slightly rich
- new plug, c6
- idle gap too big

I am using an OD 277t 'hot' plug. I've tried changing it already...no luck. I'm using blue thunder 20% nitro fuel. I should also add...I've taken 1 of the thin copper shims out from under the head. This was recommended to me by a well known pro to do when using lower nitro like I am.

I see some of you say my LSN is lean, I agree, but then 1 guy says its rich????? I love forums!

Try this out, richen hsn 1 turn from flush, lsn 1 turn in, 24069 right, idle .7mm max. Start leaning lsn to have steady idle, if it is too lean, the temp wont go down during idle or few laps. Once you get it, lean hsn to get clean wot.

Hard to describe by words, but I'm sure someone at track would help.

Guess ur idle gap is too big, rich lsn with lean hsn

7.5mins to 8mins is what i get running rex paloma, this is normal, if the mod can give extra 30 seconds then it would be nice

go back to factory settings and the idle gap at half a mm and lean from there. also put away the temp gun unless your just doing at the end of a run
you want to set your tune so you get a consistant idle, with most peoples massive idle gaps once they find the consistant idle they think its too lean as the engine wants to take off but they just need to lower the idle and go on with the fine tuning.
all the nitro guys at my track had this issue a month ago, too big of idle gaps lean ass lsn and super rich up top, tuning with a damn temp gun cause its getting over 230 degrees.

just to check is there any binding on your carb when its closed,two turns from fully closed on the lsn would put the needle really far into the spray nozzle and may damage the nozzle seat or your lsn. this is why your told to open the carb anytime you bottom out the lsn trying to return it to factory settings.

Pretty good vid explaining how to tune the idle and lsn on a nova

https://vimeo.com/7595905

Rex paloma
 

I had rex paloma 7 port, will the 3ports n 5ports sleeve fit into the crankcase?

Novarossi P5XLT is the same engine Ultimate M5?


PJ

Mostly yes. P5XLT has 15009 crankshaft, M5 has 15009T like what the Clio P5 has.

Hey guys quik q, how does my idle gap look? a little wide? just right?

Like I said in the FX thread, it depends. How does it run? If it runs fine, has all the power you want, idles fine etc then it's exactly where your engine wants it.

Why do people focus so much on idle gap instead of just tuning their low end the setting it to have a steady idle, whatever that may be. Also how can you measure a gap with no insert? Do you not run one?

if you are experienced with how to tune, the idle gap sort of just comes naturally. If you are a beginner, measuring it can be a helpful tool with respect to obtaining a setting close to correct, as most beginners at anything are not in fact experts from day 1. Hope this explains the phenomenon.

ah. makes a little more sense now. I guess I just had old school teachers 10 years ago and iv never even measured idle gap for my cars, planes, helicopters, or boats lol. but I hear it talked about all the time now. hmmm. strange lol

This made me laugh^^^ haha

Lets say you run a 6mm insert and most carbs are 9mm, that's 1,5mm opening of the throttle just to get it to the edge of the insert. So add say 0,5mm to that and you now have the carb opened 2mm...
The insert doesn't block the carb bore in any way that makes it possible to tune it that way, the air will pass right by. :tire:

gotcha gotcha

http://www.planethobby.com/products/...vloaAn2I8P8HAQ

Found a good deal on these just thought I'd share for anyone looking to stock up on glow plugs... cheapest I've found so far. Shipping is like 4 bucks for usps first class.

Wont start hot
 

Question: I have a Plus4BTT with a few gallons on it and was broke in well. Heat soaked and tuned if the engine dies it's hard as hell to start. It will not start until it sits for 5min or so. Heat soaked it's running about 220F or so in 90F weather. New plug and doing the same thing. Seems to have good pinch still when heat soaked. Running 20% Byrons. Please help.

Sounds like vapor lock

Elite 5
 

For those that are running the Elite 5...

Which pipe/mani combo do you feel provides the most overall power? Or best top end?

I'm considering either a stock Elite 5 or the TNS modified.

I previously ran the OS XZB Spec II and want to be sure I can get similar rip/power out of this Nova Elite.

Thx guys!

Werks 2058 works great with the p5 based engines, really good top end plus it's very smooth throughout the low to mid rpm range with plenty of useable power. Currently running it in my buggy and I'd say it's a pretty solid combo.

As far as Nova pipes 9886 with either 41032 or 41001 will make some stupid power especially with a modded engine.


If you stick with a stock mill and really want it to scream pop one of the shims out after it's broken in. Even dropping the shimstack down from .8mm to .7mm makes a huge difference with a good 30% race fuel

Anyone owned bonito, keep off 7 and mito? What is the difference, the older model is quite cheap to ignore

anyone know anything regarding the rex .28-8 engine like how much power do they have?

Stock Elite 5 will have nothing for a XZB Spec II no matter what you do .... However my modified Elite 5 will easily be faster and more powerful then a XZB Spec II ......