Rayaracing sleeve resizing and tooling
#16
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Its really not about the gleam/cosmetics. Starting with good clean surfaces is the first step in resizing accurately. Of course I go that extra step and improve surface finish conditions, removing piston pitting, small liner scratches,nicks left at exhaust port from case removal, etc. Point is there is no possible way & no machine/tool that will find that sweet spot resizing over unclean/unfresh surfaces. The second step is proper tool/proper tool application, reconstructing sleeve alloys'. Resizing tools that Bend & Dent the sleeve obviously to you racers donot work well. The alloy molecules must be evenly & accurately torn from one state and put in another. I personally am very annal with as much as a half a tenth of one thousandth of an inch in my work. I document the before & after dimensioning on invoices for you guys to see what I had done.
helivaguy(giani)
You will be receiving your package in a USPS priority small flat rate box by the end of week here,friday. Both sets came out nice.

http://www.rayaracing.com/

#18
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Ray,
I have one that I'd like to know if it is worth resizing or not. (I can send pics if that helps.)
I picked up a used C6BB, supposedly with 1.5- 2 gallons on it since new. I can tell it has been apart... (screw slots on the backplate show some deformation, etc) so I'm skeptical to say the least.
Looking in the exhaust port I can see some scoring from the wristpin to the top of the piston... and I can turn it over by hand without a flywheel installed. I haven't yet pulled it apart but will do so... gonna take pics of everthing first.
I realize that a resizing will tighten it back up... but should I be concerned about the scratches? Should I simply send it in and let you evaluate if it is useable?
IF it is useable I think I'll change the bearings before I put it back together... and I should check the pin on the crank for consistant diameter right? Are the regular digital calipers that most racers have adequately accurate for that?
I have one that I'd like to know if it is worth resizing or not. (I can send pics if that helps.)
I picked up a used C6BB, supposedly with 1.5- 2 gallons on it since new. I can tell it has been apart... (screw slots on the backplate show some deformation, etc) so I'm skeptical to say the least.
Looking in the exhaust port I can see some scoring from the wristpin to the top of the piston... and I can turn it over by hand without a flywheel installed. I haven't yet pulled it apart but will do so... gonna take pics of everthing first.
I realize that a resizing will tighten it back up... but should I be concerned about the scratches? Should I simply send it in and let you evaluate if it is useable?
IF it is useable I think I'll change the bearings before I put it back together... and I should check the pin on the crank for consistant diameter right? Are the regular digital calipers that most racers have adequately accurate for that?

#19
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Ray,
I have one that I'd like to know if it is worth resizing or not. (I can send pics if that helps.)
I picked up a used C6BB, supposedly with 1.5- 2 gallons on it since new. I can tell it has been apart... (screw slots on the backplate show some deformation, etc) so I'm skeptical to say the least.
Looking in the exhaust port I can see some scoring from the wristpin to the top of the piston... and I can turn it over by hand without a flywheel installed. I haven't yet pulled it apart but will do so... gonna take pics of everthing first.
I realize that a resizing will tighten it back up... but should I be concerned about the scratches? Should I simply send it in and let you evaluate if it is useable?
IF it is useable I think I'll change the bearings before I put it back together... and I should check the pin on the crank for consistant diameter right? Are the regular digital calipers that most racers have adequately accurate for that?
I have one that I'd like to know if it is worth resizing or not. (I can send pics if that helps.)
I picked up a used C6BB, supposedly with 1.5- 2 gallons on it since new. I can tell it has been apart... (screw slots on the backplate show some deformation, etc) so I'm skeptical to say the least.
Looking in the exhaust port I can see some scoring from the wristpin to the top of the piston... and I can turn it over by hand without a flywheel installed. I haven't yet pulled it apart but will do so... gonna take pics of everthing first.
I realize that a resizing will tighten it back up... but should I be concerned about the scratches? Should I simply send it in and let you evaluate if it is useable?
IF it is useable I think I'll change the bearings before I put it back together... and I should check the pin on the crank for consistant diameter right? Are the regular digital calipers that most racers have adequately accurate for that?
Not a good sign if you see.liner scratching with thru port. Send in and I will consult by email fallowing inspection. Send the crank to if you would like me to measure crank pin wear. I recomend using blade vineir mics there where tenth accuracy. Calipers only good for ball park measuring. Leave conrod attached to piston when shipping P+S set. Use my order form so I have details with contact + return ship info. RayA

#20
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Ray,
Scratches are on the piston, not the liner (although it may have those too... I haven't opened it up yet to see.)
Scratches are on the piston, not the liner (although it may have those too... I haven't opened it up yet to see.)

#21
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Iam not near my laptop. I am reading + typing on my Blackberry. Sorry I miss read that.deep scratches on the piston will make your P+S set unsalvagable. Light liner scratched no big deal, the always hone out for me.inspect your hardeware and email me there after. RayA

#24
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#25
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Just wanted to add my two cents for the great service Ray does. I had a Nova Rossi Plus .21-5, that I had not used very much maybe a gallon or so, that would run erratically. I tore the motor apart and I could push the piston a 1/4" inch or so above the top of the sleeve. The only thing I could figure I was doing was letting the engine cool down with the piston stuck at TDC enlarging the sleeve. Anyway, I priced a new P&S and it was $210.00, almost what I originally paid for the motor. I sent the P&S to Ray, and I received basically a brand new engine. I followed his break-in and ran it all season and it is still running great. Do not hesitate to use him to your advantage and budget!
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike

#26
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Thanks for the update Mikal ! I especialy like to hear the results at the end of the race season.
It has been a good year here. Busy on to just a few weeks ago.
Happy hollidays to everyone
RayAracing
It has been a good year here. Busy on to just a few weeks ago.
Happy hollidays to everyone

RayAracing

#28

After reading this thread I will send in my OS World S/P in for a pinch after this Sunday. Question what is the general rule can a P/S get pinched more then once and when should a person get his/her motor pinched.

#29

I've had ray do my collari a few years back. He does excellent work. To me, I'd have it repinched depending on how the motor tunes. If it's starting to show signs of losing compression, then that's when I'd send it in. While you have the motor apart, before you send it in, it might be a good time to check the crank pin and rod. As far as getting the sleeve pinched more than once, talk to ray and see what he says. I'd say you could repinch the motor more than once, but I'm no profesional.

#30

I've had ray do my collari a few years back. He does excellent work. To me, I'd have it repinched depending on how the motor tunes. If it's starting to show signs of losing compression, then that's when I'd send it in. While you have the motor apart, before you send it in, it might be a good time to check the crank pin and rod. As far as getting the sleeve pinched more than once, talk to ray and see what he says. I'd say you could repinch the motor more than once, but I'm no profesional.
