New ORION ALPHA 3-PORT
10-03-2009, 03:40 PM
#151
10-05-2009, 11:07 PM
#153
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
Having some trouble w/ my ABI .21
after running at the factory settings for about 7-8 tanks , I began to lean it very slightly. It ran fine, was rich as heck, but it didn't flame out or act up. After about 15 tanks I continued to lean it slightly, but it was still real rich. About then it started to die when the fuel tank was half full. I couldn't get it to run past half a tank without it dying. It would be running great, then just die. I noticed that the flywheel was hot, temped at 200 degrees, head was at 220. the flywheel felt tight, and like i said, it was hot. After it cools, it frees up, but still isn't as free as my old trusty OS RG. The Orion has about 1/2 a gallon it now. I notice that there are sometimes air bubbles in the fuel line, which I havent noticed with any other engine. The pipe I'm using is the Losi RE10, OS P3 plug, and Byrons Gen 2 race %20 fuel. Anyone have thoughts as to what may be wrong??? Thanks for any help!! btw, i pulled the clutch, and there were no issues there.
Last edited by Snopro440; 10-05-2009 at 11:14 PM. Reason: additional info
10-06-2009, 02:41 AM
#155
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
I did not seal the engine. To be honest, I am relatively new to nitro engines, and I don't know what sealing an engine consists of or what the symptoms are that would make me know it needed to be sealed. As far as tuning goes, I had been running it well over 5 minutes before i made any changes to the tuning.
10-06-2009, 08:28 AM
#156
I did not seal the engine. To be honest, I am relatively new to nitro engines, and I don't know what sealing an engine consists of or what the symptoms are that would make me know it needed to be sealed. As far as tuning goes, I had been running it well over 5 minutes before i made any changes to the tuning.
If that's the case, there's a known problem with the fuel tank cap that makes the engine act up when the heat and pressure builds.
10-06-2009, 09:44 AM
#157
It should not be necessary to seal a new engine. Whenever you have an issue with the engine running differently as the fuel level changes, it's related to the fuel tank or the pressure line coming from the exhaust.
The fuel tank is pressurized via the exhaust pressure line to ensure that the engine will run the same on a full tank as it does with a lower fuel level. When the fuel tank is full, the fuel level is usually above that of the spray barbar in the carb, so you have a gravity feed (very easy for the engine to draw fuel). Once the fuel level drops below the level of the spray bar, then it's a siphon feed and it will require more and more effort for the engine to draw fuel as the fuel level in the tank drops. So, without a pressurized fuel system, the fuel mixture would gradually become leaner. When you experience these type of conditions, it's typically related to a loss of pressure in the fuel tank or cut/broken pressure line.
Check the fuel tank for damage by inspecting it for cracks or a bad seal on the filler cap. Plug the lower fitting on the tank and blow into the pressure line connected to the fitting on the filler cap (you may want to use a new piece of fuel tubing so it's clean). It should take a decent amount of pressure without leaking. If you want to be really sure, you can submerge the tank in a pot of water and watch for bubbles, but be sure to clean out any water that gets into the tank. If you don't find a problem here, then replace your fuel and pressure lines with some good quality silicone tubing.
The fuel tank is pressurized via the exhaust pressure line to ensure that the engine will run the same on a full tank as it does with a lower fuel level. When the fuel tank is full, the fuel level is usually above that of the spray barbar in the carb, so you have a gravity feed (very easy for the engine to draw fuel). Once the fuel level drops below the level of the spray bar, then it's a siphon feed and it will require more and more effort for the engine to draw fuel as the fuel level in the tank drops. So, without a pressurized fuel system, the fuel mixture would gradually become leaner. When you experience these type of conditions, it's typically related to a loss of pressure in the fuel tank or cut/broken pressure line.
Check the fuel tank for damage by inspecting it for cracks or a bad seal on the filler cap. Plug the lower fitting on the tank and blow into the pressure line connected to the fitting on the filler cap (you may want to use a new piece of fuel tubing so it's clean). It should take a decent amount of pressure without leaking. If you want to be really sure, you can submerge the tank in a pot of water and watch for bubbles, but be sure to clean out any water that gets into the tank. If you don't find a problem here, then replace your fuel and pressure lines with some good quality silicone tubing.
10-06-2009, 12:31 PM
#159
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
I took the tank out, and submerged it, with no air bubbles. I blew through the lines and it didn't create a leak. I did the same with the fuel line that goes from the tank, through the filter to the carb, with no apparent loss of pressure. Any ideas?? Ill try replacing the fuel lines too I guess.
10-06-2009, 01:04 PM
#160
If you have a spare tank, change it just to see, if your O-ring is slightly deformed it may only leak when it gets some heat in it.
Most engines these days have good machining tolerances, Very few really need sealing.
Most engines these days have good machining tolerances, Very few really need sealing.
10-06-2009, 03:44 PM
#162
after running at the factory settings for about 7-8 tanks , I began to lean it very slightly. It ran fine, was rich as heck, but it didn't flame out or act up. After about 15 tanks I continued to lean it slightly, but it was still real rich. About then it started to die when the fuel tank was half full. I couldn't get it to run past half a tank without it dying. It would be running great, then just die. I noticed that the flywheel was hot, temped at 200 degrees, head was at 220. the flywheel felt tight, and like i said, it was hot. After it cools, it frees up, but still isn't as free as my old trusty OS RG. The Orion has about 1/2 a gallon it now. I notice that there are sometimes air bubbles in the fuel line, which I havent noticed with any other engine. The pipe I'm using is the Losi RE10, OS P3 plug, and Byrons Gen 2 race %20 fuel. Anyone have thoughts as to what may be wrong??? Thanks for any help!! btw, i pulled the clutch, and there were no issues there.
I have had this very same issue a few years back, very hard to trace. My issue was the engine block and clutch would warm up to operating temp and bind up. Turns out I needed a shim behind the collet to give a little more gap between the block and flywheel. Pull the flywheel off and look to see if it has been hitting the block.
It probably didn't do it during brake in due to the engine never getting to race temps. Also would explain why your clutch is so hot.
10-06-2009, 04:12 PM
#163
why was mike truhe running a grp carb at the ROAR nats??
10-06-2009, 04:34 PM
#164
Some guys like the way a certain carbs tune. Some carbs have 2 needles some have 3 needles. Some have the idle screw under and some on the top side.
Personal preffernce I would guess. My Alpha runs awesome with the stock carb.
Personal preffernce I would guess. My Alpha runs awesome with the stock carb.
10-06-2009, 09:09 PM
#165
Tech Adept
iTrader: (17)
Well, I think that I figured out my problem...... I pulled the engine out again, and was looking everything over. I saw that I had not pushed the carb all the way down, so it wasn't seated properly. I took care of that, double checked the gaskets on the exhaust and gave it a test run.. I ran it for 3 tanks straight, and ran it up to temp. It ran great, did not die, and the flywheel was not super hot like it had been. I am guessing that the carb not being seated properly caused the issue.. Thanks for your help guys!!