Tmaxx Trouble??? Runaway Flywheel
#1
Tmaxx Trouble??? Runaway Flywheel
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DCfzcGEX25BR4CqGAHey Y’all, I bought an old Traxxas Tmaxx over 2yrs ago for $50 from a friend’s neighbor. It was given to him by the original owner, but my friend’s neighbor had no idea what to do with it. I think it may be from the first year they were built, but I could be wrong. It sure ain’t anywhere close to new. If you read my ‘about me,’ you’ll see that my occupation is listed as “small engine mechanic...” cause it is. I’m familiar with engines. Besides lawnmowers and chainsaws, etc., I’ve worked on Mazda rotary engines, Nissan engines, chevys... so you can understand why I’m a little frustrated that I can’t get this minuscule glow engine to go. On the day I bought the truck, I was able to get it to fire for a short moment of no more than 5secs, until the flywheel unscrewed from the crankshaft of the TRX .15 engine. Ever since, I haven’t been able to start the thing. The flywheel/clutch assy comes off every time I turn the engine over. The carb works and delivers air and fuel to the engine, the engine has spark, and it has compression(as of 2yrs ago). I just don’t know why the flywheel and clutch keep coming off. The video I took and put at the top of the post shows you what I’m dealing with. Any and all help is appreciated! My goal is to bring the truck to a local track on a practice day and drive it around when I’m not practicing. I’ve rebuilt the transmission, since I thought that may have been the issue at first. I don’t think it was, and I’m not sure what I was thinking lol. The trans has no fluid in it now, and didn’t when I bought it. I’m not sure if it needs fluid, since it does have a port on the top for it. Thanks in advance for your help!
#2
the flywheel does not screw the engine its a tapered fit....take the clutch apart
these pics might help (scroll down)
https://traxxas.com/support/TRX-Engine-Rebuild
these pics might help (scroll down)
https://traxxas.com/support/TRX-Engine-Rebuild
Last edited by imaxx21; 11-13-2019 at 07:36 PM.
#4
Alright. I rebuilt the clutch and it no longer comes off. Thank you. This little engine still won’t cooperate with me, though. I spent 2 hrs on it today. Ridiculous! I have burnt through a starter motor. Thankfully I had a spare. I changed the glow plug, even though I knew it was getting spark. I can get it to start, but it stalls instantly. No carb tuning can solve this, I tried. After some more research, I think the issue may be the one way bearing in the ezstart. The engine sounds like it’s thrown the rod when turning it over in the higher rpm’s. I took off the ezstart to check it, and it’s fine. It’s a little gunked up in the sump, and there are some metal sparkles in it and a bit of grime, too, but not terrible...but not great. I expected that. The piston is borderline immaculate. I have a spare, brand new engine, but I don’t think a new engine will solve the problem. TBH, I don’t want to put the new engine in. I am committed to forcing this original tiny block of aluminum back to life.
#6
are you using a glow ignitor or just the blue wire, get an ignitor
how's the compression, may be time for a piston/sleeve set
how's the compression, may be time for a piston/sleeve set
#7
Tech Rookie
That engine is FILTHY, That is a LOT of gunk in the crankcase. Did you clean the carburetor? They need to be cleaned just like a atv/snowmobile or any other type of carb. Also, in the picture it appears to me that the carburetor is not fully seated. It looks like theres a gap between the carb body o ring and the case
If you've checked all that, and the engine still fires but doesnt stay running, try either turning the idle up or leaning out the low speed slightly, or both. You can also try holding the throttle slightly open and see if that keeps it running. (An easy way to tell if its just your idle too low)
If you've checked all that, and the engine still fires but doesnt stay running, try either turning the idle up or leaning out the low speed slightly, or both. You can also try holding the throttle slightly open and see if that keeps it running. (An easy way to tell if its just your idle too low)
#8
Thanks again. Not using a glow igniter, since I don’t have one. I’d have a few if I raced nitro. Compression is surprisingly good. The carb is seated well. I’ve played with the carb and have plenty of experience with carburetors. I haven’t cleaned the carb yet, since it’s delivering air and fuel as it should. Lol I’m not sure what I was talking about when I said the engine wasn’t terrible. It’s pretty bad. I’ll look at it a bit more tomorrow. Then I’ll be off to work fixing lawnmowers. Once I get this running, I plan to completely rebuild the entire truck, including the engine, carb, etc. The thing probably has 20 years worth of encrusted nitro fuel and dirt on it.
#9
Alright, so the one way bearing is fine. I’m stumped, and frustrated at this engine. I sprayed the crankcase out with carb spray to get a little bit of the gunk out and put the sump cover and everything else back onto the engine. Still won’t go. Any other ideas?
#10
Tech Rookie
These carbs are not like lawnmower carbs. Just delivering air and fuel is not enough for it to start up and stay running. it needs to be taken apart and cleaned meticulously. The very small orings on the needles are also prone to dry rotting and cracking when sitting. Cleaning and rebuilding the carb will greatly increase the chances of it starting. Also do not spray carb cleaner in the carb unless every o ring has been removed, it will make them swell and ruin them.
You can also check quick to make sure the plug is actually heating up. Take the plug out and just leave the wire connected. Then just hold the threads of the plug somewhere on the engine and spin the engine over. The plug should glow bright orange hot. If it doesnt youve found your problem
You can also check quick to make sure the plug is actually heating up. Take the plug out and just leave the wire connected. Then just hold the threads of the plug somewhere on the engine and spin the engine over. The plug should glow bright orange hot. If it doesnt youve found your problem
#11
These carbs are not like lawnmower carbs. Just delivering air and fuel is not enough for it to start up and stay running. it needs to be taken apart and cleaned meticulously. The very small orings on the needles are also prone to dry rotting and cracking when sitting. Cleaning and rebuilding the carb will greatly increase the chances of it starting. Also do not spray carb cleaner in the carb unless every o ring has been removed, it will make them swell and ruin them.
You can also check quick to make sure the plug is actually heating up. Take the plug out and just leave the wire connected. Then just hold the threads of the plug somewhere on the engine and spin the engine over. The plug should glow bright orange hot. If it doesnt youve found your problem
You can also check quick to make sure the plug is actually heating up. Take the plug out and just leave the wire connected. Then just hold the threads of the plug somewhere on the engine and spin the engine over. The plug should glow bright orange hot. If it doesnt youve found your problem
everything he said, also when making tuning changes you can't spin the needles 'turns' at a time
think of needles like a clock divided into 12.... a common saying in RC is to lean or richen ''one hour'' that's where it comes from
#13
That would indicate the OWB is bad or backwards.
#14
Tech Rookie
Yep. One way bearing. Take that bearing out and give it a good spray out with brake cleaner. Let it dry then stick a small drop of 3 in 1 or marvel mystery oil in the rollers and reinstall.
And just a fyi, IDK why it bothers me but...these nitro engines do not get "spark". The plugs dont spark they just get red hot to ignite the fuel.
And just a fyi, IDK why it bothers me but...these nitro engines do not get "spark". The plugs dont spark they just get red hot to ignite the fuel.
#15
Tech Fanatic
There is no “spark” with a nitro engine. The glow plug just glows orange.