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-   Offroad Nitro Engine Forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum-157/)
-   -   After run (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/1022332-after-run.html)

J5137 07-23-2018 08:47 AM

After run
 
Hello after running running your nitro car for a day do you only drain the tank or do you also drain the engine? How? Thanks

timjs 07-23-2018 09:45 AM

I do nothing at all. A month later they start right back up. I can't say I recommend it, but it's the truth.

banana rt 07-23-2018 09:45 PM

how long ull store ur car ?
1 year? yes drain tank & after run
if it just sitting short period, no need AFO,, make sure u have a branded fuel,

jersey 07-23-2018 11:53 PM

I think a lot comes down to what brand of fuel you use. Some will rust internals some will gum up some willl be fine. Depends on fuel. If you run a couple times a week you should be alright with nothing but other times when it sits. Drain tank. Start car see if it will start let it die out without any throttle. Let it die so it won't run. Open throttle put after run oil open carb slide in move flywheel back and forth and then should be good. Some after run oils can damage silicone filled cranks.

Ive noticed some fuels will rust parts and I've noticed some gum up. I think it mainly depends on fuel. I'm sure other engine people will chime in

8ight-t_sbs 07-26-2018 01:51 AM

I always use after run after a weekend of racing. The after run prevents fuel humming and rust. It helps lengthen the life of the engine.

As for draining fuel, I switch the fuel lines (tank to tank and pipe to engine).

iplaygames 07-26-2018 06:25 PM

For what its worth, i live in a cold climate where rust is a common thing right next to the sea etc, i have always used 3in1 oil, fill the carb open slide and do again then give it a quick bump on the box for 1 second, no rust issues.

if i run the engine dry and leave it even for a week, it will show rust on non-dlc cranks, then will start showing on the bearing.

byrons, werks, sidewinder... they will all rust if the conditons are met, additive to stop rust is only effecting performance of the fuel.

stephen_bess 07-26-2018 11:03 PM

Get a baby medicine syringe, attach fuel tubing to the nozzle. Fill syringe with favorite after run oil, then just pull off fuel line on carb, open throttle to wide open, and push syringe. Never remove the air filter neck again for after run purposes. You're welcome!

iplaygames 07-27-2018 07:12 PM


Originally Posted by stephen_bess (Post 15268547)
Get a baby medicine syringe, attach fuel tubing to the nozzle. Fill syringe with favorite after run oil, then just pull off fuel line on carb, open throttle to wide open, and push syringe. Never remove the air filter neck again for after run purposes. You're welcome!

you sir have just made my day, seriously so happy now that i know this lol

stephen_bess 07-27-2018 10:25 PM


Originally Posted by iplaygames (Post 15269029)
you sir have just made my day, seriously so happy now that i know this lol

Haha awesome!

kwhunter 07-28-2018 10:38 PM

I'm no expert in glow engines since I've just started. I've read instructions from different sources and I'm confused...
https://traxxas.com/support/How-Perf...-run-Procedure
Frequently Asked Questions Novarossi World - NOVAROSSI WORLD
Each contradicts the other... What is "After run oil"? Is it a magic oil, or just simple mineral/synthetic oil? Nobody seems to know. According to experts, Marvel Mistery oil, ATF, 3-in-one, even mineral oil from the drug store (I would assume paraffin oil not baby oil...) all will work.
But don't use WD-40, don't take Traxxas' word...

iplaygames 07-28-2018 11:01 PM

it explains what it is in its name "after run" as in after running.. "oil" pick a decent oil.. 3in1 or some overpriced afterrun castor oil "labeled as magic"
do not use wd40 as its mainly solvent.. put oil in a bearing and spin it and feel it, then spray wd40 into that bearing and watch how free but rough it becomes, thats the solvent cleaning the thicker oil off the balls <- :lol:

Pure oil such as castor or something like ATF.

3in1 is popular because it protects very well and burns clean at low temp so it will burn off quick.

kwhunter 07-28-2018 11:42 PM


Originally Posted by iplaygames (Post 15269578)
it explains what it is in its name "after run" as in after running.. "oil" pick a decent oil.. 3in1 or some overpriced afterrun castor oil "labeled as magic"
do not use wd40 as its mainly solvent.. put oil in a bearing and spin it and feel it, then spray wd40 into that bearing and watch how free but rough it becomes, thats the solvent cleaning the thicker oil off the balls <- :lol:

Pure oil such as castor or something like ATF.

3in1 is popular because it protects very well and burns clean at low temp so it will burn off quick.

I've read somewhere that olive oil works very well too. Castor is a vegetal oil to, no?

iplaygames 07-29-2018 12:15 AM


Originally Posted by kwhunter (Post 15269590)
I've read somewhere that olive oil works very well too. Castor is a vegetal oil to, no?

not sure, google would be you're friend. 3in1 oil is probably the best thing available, personally i think its a bit silly to not use it if you want to use ARO

Roelof 07-29-2018 01:43 AM


Originally Posted by iplaygames (Post 15269578)
it explains what it is in its name "after run" as in after running.. "oil" pick a decent oil.. 3in1 or some overpriced afterrun castor oil "labeled as magic"
do not use wd40 as its mainly solvent.. put oil in a bearing and spin it and feel it, then spray wd40 into that bearing and watch how free but rough it becomes, thats the solvent cleaning the thicker oil off the balls <- :lol:

Pure oil such as castor or something like ATF.

3in1 is popular because it protects very well and burns clean at low temp so it will burn off quick.

For years Tornado explained that afterrun does neutralize the acid from burned nitro and it is true that burned nitro has an acid.
But basically afterrun oil needs to seal the metal parts off from air so no oxidation (rust) can devellop.When you buy a piece of machine like a drill, a lathe etc there is always a certain smell, that is from the protecting oil on the metal parts.

So what will work? Basically any castor oil becaus they are a bit sticky, not taking up water and seals airtight. But normal castor will dry up and cause problems (if you store the engine for more than a year).
Most synthetic oils can take up water so are not ideal to protect the metal parts.
But over the years people are using with succes al kinds of oils like the original red oil from Tornado looks like basic weapon maintenance/cleaning oil which is not a bad idea to use.

WD40 is most of the times not recomended, the only problem is causes (I have not seen it yet) is that the silicone insert can swallow and pop loose. With most cheaper engines there is no silicone insert in the crankshaft so you can use WD40 with them.

iplaygames 07-29-2018 01:52 AM


Originally Posted by Roelof (Post 15269617)
For years Tornado explained that afterrun does neutralize the acid from burned nitro and it is true that burned nitro has an acid.
But basically afterrun oil needs to seal the metal parts off from air so no oxidation (rust) can devellop.When you buy a piece of machine like a drill, a lathe etc there is always a certain smell, that is from the protecting oil on the metal parts.

So what will work? Basically any castor oil becaus they are a bit sticky, not taking up water and seals airtight. But normal castor will dry up and cause problems (if you store the engine for more than a year).
Most synthetic oils can take up water so are not ideal to protect the metal parts.
But over the years people are using with succes al kinds of oils like the original red oil from Tornado looks like basic weapon maintenance/cleaning oil which is not a bad idea to use.

WD40 is most of the times not recomended, the only problem is causes (I have not seen it yet) is that the silicone insert can swallow and pop loose. With most cheaper engines there is no silicone insert in the crankshaft so you can use WD40 with them.

with plain old wd40 i've seen engines throw its main bearing because of how it cleans the bearing from its sticky oil.(started the engine after about 2 weeks and the main bearing was toast after a small easy warm up on box.)

as a thread conclusion, chose something that protects (like 3in1/atf etc) use it if your worried about rust. Safer just to use it incase?


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