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can i use smd station to preheat engine for breakin?

can i use smd station to preheat engine for breakin?

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Old 04-29-2018, 11:32 AM
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Default can i use smd station to preheat engine for breakin?

hi all. im gonna be needing a new piston and sleeve till my new engines are delivered, thought id use my smd station (air soldering) to preheat for first few tanks

what precautions should i take? how can i heat the bottom of the heatsink cooling head (top of the sleeve area) without being too close to pull start and carburator??

if i aim directly from above at the glow plug would it be okay? how much can a glow plug handle?

another major question to all users that ALWAYS preheat their engines, it doesnt make sense to loose mechanical pinch if you always preheat the motor since the pinch suposed to fade away when the sleeve is at op temp and has expanded... so question is, it is true that eventualy you lose pinch no matter what?
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:45 AM
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Anything creating heat will work but I doubt if a SMD heating station has enough capacity.

Just use a simple hair dryer, you must have one in house or buy one for just a few bucks and keep it with your RC stuff.
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Anything creating heat will work but I doubt if a SMD heating station has enough capacity.

Just use a simple hair dryer, you must have one in house or buy one for just a few bucks and keep it with your RC stuff.
i mean i can easily by mistake burn any plastic o4 rubber around the engine, heck it might burn the paint off if im not careful... whats the glow plug made of? how much heat can it handle for me to pass the heat into the sleeve quick without waiting 15 minutes as a regular hair dryer would take...
can i remove the glow plug and aim the smd heat gun into glow plug opening without messing anything up?
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:42 PM
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Not in the plughole, important of heating is not to heat the piston but the sleeve, so heat it from outside. Do not blow to the fuel tank, hot air can easilly deform the tank, All rubber rings on the engine are silicone rings. they cam withstand a lot of heat.

Normally with a hair dryer 1 or 2 minutes heating must be enough with a new motor.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by b3master View Post
hi all. im gonna be needing a new piston and sleeve till my new engines are delivered, thought id use my smd station (air soldering) to preheat for first few tanks

what precautions should i take? how can i heat the bottom of the heatsink cooling head (top of the sleeve area) without being too close to pull start and carburator??

if i aim directly from above at the glow plug would it be okay? how much can a glow plug handle?

another major question to all users that ALWAYS preheat their engines, it doesnt make sense to loose mechanical pinch if you always preheat the motor since the pinch suposed to fade away when the sleeve is at op temp and has expanded... so question is, it is true that eventualy you lose pinch no matter what?
Yes you loose the pinch when you preheat your engines, but preheating will make your engine turn over easier and less stress on the rod. It also gets you to a race tune temp. quicker. And you can go above the glow plug....will not hurt it.
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptain crash View Post
Yes you loose the pinch when you preheat your engines, but preheating will make your engine turn over easier and less stress on the rod. It also gets you to a race tune temp. quicker. And you can go above the glow plug....will not hurt it.
The question about loosing pinch, i meant that if one always preheated his engine religiously, will it still eventualy loose (cold engine) mechanical pinch after few gallons anyways? Logically it shouldnt since its always being operated without pinch (after being heated)

My cheap rtr engine lasted 5.5 gallons without maintenance without care to preheat without cooling out of pinch area, without after run oil, old school method of breakin while idling 3 or 4 tanks and piston got stuck 3 times in sleeve. No air filter maintenance. Till some debris made its way in the cylinder and took a toll on the piston.. still trying to find out how that happened...

I feel if one always preheats should get 20 or 30 or much more gallons per engine , the only thing needing maintenance would be bearings .. just wondering

Last edited by b3master; 04-29-2018 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:06 AM
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I have had several engines yet made it past the 8 gallon mark never getting preheated. I have a TRX 3.3 with over 8 gallons on the original piston/liner/rod. I only recently changed bearings; The engine is about 14 years old now.

My newer engines are all Picco and Novarossi - much higher quality than Traxxas. For that reason, I preheat them every cold start. After 2 gallons, the pinch is still like new. They’re not at peak power yet, but they’ll last a heck of a lot longer in theory.

Most of what we do in the RC hobby is speculation. There isn’t a lot of scientific backing to much of it - as in testing in a lab and publishing results. We do what we do because we think it’s the right thing to do - even if the latest and greatest doesn’t truly do any good.

There is more to engine life/longevity than liner pinch though. It is by no means the end-all be-all of engine lifespan.
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:08 AM
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Even in F1 racing pre-heating is done. Warm cooliant is put through the cooling system to heat up the engine. These racing engines are made with such tight tolerances that they need a pre-heating to prevent damaging or getting a fast wear loosing horsepower. Even because the pistons have a piston ring they could run perfectly w/o rings, that tight the pistons are matched.
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Old 05-02-2018, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Normally with a hair dryer 1 or 2 minutes heating must be enough with a new motor.
worked like a charm, thanks alot... new GO .21 engine i got was and still is extremly tight, this along with aluminum foil wrapping made things much easier to breakin and safer for the con rod...
still needs another half day breakin... super tight...

i probably ran 8 or so tanks today with the cooling down and preheating process takes a while... i dont have to count tanks to feel when i can or cant advance to next breakin step... as the idle changes and stablizes and able to run nice and low i know its ready to be opened up more. It wasnt able to hold an idle if its life depended on it at first, had to run with higher idle wheels spinning to keep from stalling.... thought i had a lemon :-D
Will preheat first few tanks tomorow...
​​​​​​​should I keep preheating till the motor drops its balls?
​​​​
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Old 05-02-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by b3master View Post
worked like a charm, thanks alot... new GO .21 engine i got was and still is extremly tight, this along with aluminum foil wrapping made things much easier to breakin and safer for the con rod...
still needs another half day breakin... super tight...

i probably ran 8 or so tanks today with the cooling down and preheating process takes a while... i dont have to count tanks to feel when i can or cant advance to next breakin step... as the idle changes and stablizes and able to run nice and low i know its ready to be opened up more. It wasnt able to hold an idle if its life depended on it at first, had to run with higher idle wheels spinning to keep from stalling.... thought i had a lemon :-D
Will preheat first few tanks tomorow...
should I keep preheating till the motor drops its balls?
​​​​
go engines were known for being tight which is why they started supplying an extra rod with them. You breakin the engine with the installed rod and after breaking in you were to replace the rod with the extra one
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:26 PM
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Oh, thanks for the info, glad to know its just the way they are and not a "lemon", sure glad im preheating, i guess ill be putt putting around for the next gallon....
:beats own head on wall repeatedly:

Last edited by b3master; 05-03-2018 at 02:04 AM.
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