thommi

Ron, my reply is valid only for the fuel consumption. I never ran a B3 with a normal carb, but I got the B7 with the "old" carb and the new carb, and consumption didn't change. It is quite some time since I was racing REDS engines, and I don't really have it anymore in my memory how this carb exactly looked, so I can't compare this part. And agree on your statement, it's just much easier to tune, and the real quick throttle response actually makes a difference.

dld

Any more news on the performance of the new B3 Pro II guys. It looks very interesting, as I run a small tight and technical track with my buggies.

Thanks in advance.

Nitro Tiger

iTrader: (6)

Hi Ron,

Had a good go of the new B3 Pro II, awesome motor, very powerful, a lot of bottom end but still very strong up top. Where i am a big fan of the B7KE in a buggy being so smooth, the B3 is a different beast, very fun to drive though but still has very usable power, would be good for a tight track when needing a little more punch down low in places. Economy is similar the the B7, 8.30-9 mins depending on track.
Loving the new carby's, they tune alot better and hold there tune well too.

B3 is a strong motor, well done!

Wade

Werks

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Wade for the feedback! I just spoke to one of our team drivers out of Florida today that picked up one of the the new B3-Pro II's a few weeks ago. He was also very happy with the performance of the engine and mentioned that if a person had a blindfold on while driving (as in could not see the engine) they would think that they had an OS Speed in the car because the powerband is virtually identical! The guy let his son try his car with our B3 Pro II in it over the weekend and ended up calling us today because his son liked the motor so much that he begged him to get him one too lol!

thommi

Folks, after having been away from racing for a couple months due to work, I am back at it... I did use the B3 Pro II last weekend during the Rio de Janeiro Championship race, running it in a brand new MBX8 I still had to break in... As the track is not very high speed, I was setting up the engine for 10 minutes pitting, and it worked perfectly (even with the car not really broken it). Topped both qualifies, and would have won the race easily if my mylaps transponder wouldn't have himself unplugged from the receiver... By the way, the race then was won by another driver with a B3, followed by a B6 and a B2... The B3 will now be me going-in race engine based on the easy tuning, stable idle, consumption and power band.

Werks

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lilchill

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A few months back I purchased this engine and I'm just getting around to opening the box and doing the break in. First after getting it to where it is now pulling the low speed needle out the seat I'm hearing a duh, duh, duh sound😂(excuse the description not machine gun but more 50 caliber auto assault rifle sound)plenty of smoke. Also after shutting it down and taking the plug out to check things over I noticed the plug says p3 vs just 5 like my other werks plugs and the plug that came with my b5. I'm a missing something, picture below

Werks

iTrader: (3)

It's hard to understand what you are asking in your post but if your engine is ideling low/has a loping idle it is usually an indication that the engine is very rich and it is doing something commonly referred to as four stroking. You said that you are now getting it to the point where you are just pulling the LS needle out of the seat (I'm guessing that you mean out of the spray bar correct?). If so and it is at that point (or after) that you are seeing the low idle then you are now running on the HS needle and you should try just leaning the HS needles 1-2 hours to see if it helps clear the engine out and the idle speed is increased.

Right now your engine is being broken in and should be really rich so do not worry about idleing perfect etc because it's probably not going to happen. Just keep runnign the engine, leaning it down a bit tank to tank etc. If you are using our break in method as you break in the engine you are tuning the engine and once you are done everything will be set correctly.

jersey

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lilchill

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I'll try to explain it better. Your correct, I'm in the breakin process and I have about 2 quarts through it. I'm at the point where I'm running on the high speed needle, this is where it's making what I can only describe as a high speed lope. At low speeds it seems very crisp and responsive. It's only when I'm past half throttle that it makes an assault rifle sound(not machine gunning like with a very lean low end) but as the rpms increase to where it is now running on the highspeed needle the sound comes into play. I've started to lean the highspeed thinking it's just four stroking from running rich on the highspeed needle. Now the kicker is that there is plenty of smoke but it's not like a steady stream but more so a stream with puffs to go along with the the assault rifle sound. So I guess my question is would that just be a normal thing for a still tight engine running very rich on the highspeed needle? There is still alot of mechanical pinch, I have tried to lean it out with very little adjustments of the highspeed, maybe 1\16 of a turn run it for about a minute then another 1\16 turn but after 3 adjustments it cut off when i got to about 3\4 throttle so I turned it back those 3 adjustments and no more cutting out. I didn't want to damage anything from it being lean to early in its life. So maybe I'm just overthinking it and it's just to early to lean it out to much. Also do any of the werks plugs have p3 on them?

lilchill

iTrader: (1)

I ordered it from Amain 5-10-19. Yup this is the plug that came with it. Weird I know. My b5 came with a plug that has 5 engraved in it. So this through me off when I pulled it out of the engine.

jersey

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lilchill

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yeah it was sealed. I got the engine and it has been sitting since may until last weekend. I didn't even think to check the plug, I just opened the box and put the clutch on and put it in my buggy checked to make sure the plug was tight but never took it out the engine until the picture yesterday.

Werks

iTrader: (3)

During break in as you mentioned an engine is going to be tight, fuel is going to pool up in the crankcase causing the motor to load up and all kinds of things are going to happen which will affect idle and cause an engine to be a little finnicky. So that is not necessarily anything to be concerned about, you just have to take things slow. So when you lean the HS just lean it 1-2 hours and then run it for a tank, don't make a small change, change it again a minute later and then change it again another minute later. You are going to get your self lost and not know what is happening. When you lean your HS, it will also affect and lean out your LS needle setting, so your idle speed should also increase. So when you get to the point that you are adjusting HS needle settings, adjust (lean) the HS, blip the thottle, check idle and adjust (richen) the LS to brign the idle back down. Then drive the car around going 3-4 MPH faster than you were going the last tank until empty. Then lean the HS 1-2 hours, fire up engine, blip throttle, adjust LS to bring idle back down and then run the tank going 3-4 mph faster than the last tank and repeat. Once you get to the point that you are getting close to race pace on the HS then you are almost done with break in and you can then start focuing on making sure that everything is ideling properly etc. etc.

Also in regards to the plug, it's nothing to be worried about this is something new that I'm trying out. The P3 is a bit hotter than our #5 and we are having the factory include them with the engines for break in as they are less likely to flame out when you are running the engines super rich like during break in. Afterwar break in switching to our #5 will allow you to lean the engine down further making for more power and better run time.

lilchill

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