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Old 11-16-2017, 07:24 PM   #16
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I know but I wouldn't want to deal with tuning issues due to a low quality carb.
In my experience, the stock carb is great. It's a short needle design, which I much prefer.
Also, this is my second LRP 32, the first one wasn't modded, though.

Honestly, you can't go wrong with any of the suggestions in this thread.
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Old 11-16-2017, 07:28 PM   #17
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A carb swap is not necessary. That's his preference to use the carb.
I second that. I'm on my second LRP .30x and they have both been easy to tune with the stock carb. I've had OS, LRP, Picco, Ofna, Dynamite, and Novarossi engines. They all we're pretty easy to tune except the Ofna. How well they run is highly dependent on your tuning skills. If you can't tune a nitro engine, the most expensive, highly modified engine will leave you disappointed. I've had a Nova .28 8 port and two LRP .30x's. I'd put the LRP against the Nova any day. In fact I feel the LRP has more torque which is why I bought another after I wore the first one out. As far as fit and finish goes, I really don't see the difference between the Nova and LRP. It's not like you can point something out on the LRP and say that sucks, look how much better the Nova is. They both are nice inside and out. In the end you can't go wrong with either.
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Old 11-16-2017, 08:23 PM   #18
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By fit and finish - I mean internally. Far better machining and much tighter tolerances, better bearings, etc.

Enjoy your LRPs.
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:33 AM   #19
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For the money LRP ZR30.X. Awesome engine - great power, easy to tune, long lasting, reliable, etc.
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Old 11-18-2017, 05:51 AM   #20
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Stock LRP ZR30 Spec 4; $165USD - https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IMw&adurl=
Stock Novarossi Legend 28-8RT; $161 with the current 10% off coupon code, LEGEND28-8

Modified LRP Spec 4 .32 from Neal (.30 or .32 - who cares) $299, TNS Modified LRP 32 Spec 4 - Nitro Shop
Modified Nova Legend 28-8RT from Neal - $300, TNS Modified Rex Legend 28-8RT - Nitro Shop

So it's a horse a piece. The LRP .32........ $195. https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IOg&adurl=

Cost alone is a moot point; at least between the LRP .30 and Nova .28 engines IMO. At least in the USA anyway.

Last edited by SlowLST2; 11-18-2017 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:01 AM   #21
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Stock LRP ZR30 Spec 4; $165USD - https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IMw&adurl=
Stock Novarossi Legend 28-8RT; $161 with the current 10% off coupon code, LEGEND28-8

Modified LRP Spec 4 .32 from Neal (.30 or .32 - who cares) $299, TNS Modified LRP 32 Spec 4 - Nitro Shop
Modified Nova Legend 28-8RT from Neal - $300, TNS Modified Rex Legend 28-8RT - Nitro Shop

So it's a horse a piece. The LRP .32........ $195. https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IOg&adurl=

Cost alone is a moot point; at least between the LRP .30 and Nova .28 engines IMO. At least in the USA anyway.
I would avoid the LRP .32 in a truggy for one reason, the pullstart. You don't need it in a truggy and it just adds to the complexity of the engine. It also puts another hole in the crankcase to leak air. I would instead opt for the LRP .30x which I know Neal already mods or the Nova .28.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:42 AM   #22
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That’s a great price for the Nova, but I would still probably get the LRP. The Nova is great and all, but in my opinion it’s a bit more… “involved“ when it comes to break in, set up with the right plug, pipe, fuel, etc.… For the LRP get the purple O’Donnells medium plug from Amain.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:47 AM   #23
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I would avoid the LRP .32 in a truggy for one reason, the pullstart. You don't need it in a truggy and it just adds to the complexity of the engine. It also puts another hole in the crankcase to leak air. I would instead opt for the LRP .30x which I know Neal already mods or the Nova .28.
I would be getting the backplate. I wouldn't keep the pullstart.
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:52 PM   #24
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That’s a great price for the Nova, but I would still probably get the LRP. The Nova is great and all, but in my opinion it’s a bit more… “involved“ when it comes to break in, set up with the right plug, pipe, fuel, etc.… For the LRP get the purple O’Donnells medium plug from Amain.
BS. No more involved than any other engine - They're not picky engines. Seriously. After running SH engines for as long as I have, and now having run a Nova, there is no way in hell anyone could convince me to go back to an SH engine.
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Old 11-18-2017, 12:57 PM   #25
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The carb on the LRP makes all the difference. Night and day difference from the other, older Spec 3’s and co.

I had a 528XR back in the day, and it was a huge PIA. No, I ‘m not saying that means they will be for everyone else. But it WAS picky as hell for me re fuel, pipe, and plug. The tuning window is much smaller with a Nova, and break-in is more of a pain IMO.

I’ve had my LRP in like 3-4 totally different kinds of cars(SC8, DM-1, LST2, etc..), and it just goes, and goes well. Has lasted forever too. Just runs and runs...

I stand by my opinion that the Nova may well be great, but it’s more involved to get it going right. With the LRP you can basically throw almost any pipe or plug on/in it, heat cycle five or six tanks for break in, and off you go. No BS preheating for a gallon etc etc...

For a truggy MAYBE the Nova will stack up comparatively better because there’s no 2-Speed, and the Nova probably revs a little higher. But I doubt it’d be much better in any really significant way.
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Old 11-18-2017, 09:43 PM   #26
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Maybe... Just maybe... today's Nova is a bit different than the Novas of 10-15 years ago. I didn't find mine to be any more difficult to setup and run than any other engine. Hell, it still has the original glow plug from new that has almost 2 gallons on it. I've yet to have an engine run the original plug past break-in, let alone more than a gallon. I find it to be a superb engine. I have some videos posted in the LST thread in Monster trucks. The last two outings I didn't even need to touch the needles.
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:53 PM   #27
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I’ve had good experience with Nova 21 buggy/truggy engines, especially RB*(made by Nova), but I absolutely hated that 528. Sold it to a guy who ran different fuel(less oil), and he said it ran fine. All I ever did was try new pipes and plugs and fuel in circles and circles, trying to get it to run right but getting nowhere.

In RC though there are always all kinds of variables, so yeah, I could well buy a new Nova 28 and have it run great. I believe that. But one bad experience like that leaves a bad taste in your mouth... In this case though I realize it shouldn’t apply as a generalization...

Though my positive experience with the ZR.30X (and many, many other LRP engines, though none as good as the 30X......) should.

* Interestingly, RB never made a 28 with a great reputation...
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Old 11-19-2017, 02:29 AM   #28
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If your looking for an all around great deep power the o.s. 25 is like a 4 stroke in the deep loud torquee sense and has great tuning ability with alternative updates carbs. The other I have had experience with is the Orion crf .21 7 port, it’s just a screaming top end engine but the bottom is harder threw mid then most any big bore engines cause it picks up fast with rpm. All these hard running engines run threw parts and hurt parts easily so you have to be on top of your tune, the os has a very reliable tune but I found my rear bearing failing fast, the Orion is a fire breather but tune is more critical for survival. In all cases a race engine doesn’t last long, a nice 3 port or 5 port os or werks/Orion for fun running on a track is reliable long lasting and can get you threw practice, but a fire breathing engine for bashing is going to destroy rods and bearing if you don’t manage the power. Good thing to think about. A 3-5 port can be had for $100 bucks on here or $250 new, a fast engines cost $400+ even $600-$700 for some modded out cheetahs.
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Old 11-19-2017, 12:06 PM   #29
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If your looking for an all around great deep power the o.s. 25 is like a 4 stroke in the deep loud torquee sense and has great tuning ability with alternative updates carbs. The other I have had experience with is the Orion crf .21 7 port, it’s just a screaming top end engine but the bottom is harder threw mid then most any big bore engines cause it picks up fast with rpm. All these hard running engines run threw parts and hurt parts easily so you have to be on top of your tune, the os has a very reliable tune but I found my rear bearing failing fast, the Orion is a fire breather but tune is more critical for survival. In all cases a race engine doesn’t last long, a nice 3 port or 5 port os or werks/Orion for fun running on a track is reliable long lasting and can get you threw practice, but a fire breathing engine for bashing is going to destroy rods and bearing if you don’t manage the power. Good thing to think about. A 3-5 port can be had for $100 bucks on here or $250 new, a fast engines cost $400+ even $600-$700 for some modded out cheetahs.
Thanks for the great info. Price is not an issue. I'm not looking to get anything less than the TNS 28-8 and .32 at this point. It looks as if these two are far ahead of anything else on the market. After watching several vids of the two engines, the .32 does exactly what I want and looks as if it has just as much top end as the 28-8. My only worry is the reliability. I haven't seen any threads or posts on them blowing up and Botajell told me that his 32 has been running well after a year of abuse. I may just buy both engines.
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Old 11-19-2017, 12:30 PM   #30
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Thanks for the great info. Price is not an issue. I'm not looking to get anything less than the TNS 28-8 and .32 at this point. It looks as if these two are far ahead of anything else on the market. After watching several vids of the two engines, the .32 does exactly what I want and looks as if it has just as much top end as the 28-8. My only worry is the reliability. I haven't seen any threads or posts on them blowing up and Botajell told me that his 32 has been running well after a year of abuse. I may just buy both engines.
Just fyi, my first LRP.32 (not my TNS one) lasted 3 gallons. The lower conrod bushing got very sloppy on the crank pin. I let it go so long that it kept pulling the filaments out of the glow plugs. Before I realized that is actually a sure fire sign of rod wear, it was too late.. gouged the side of the piston pretty bad.

Point is, replace the rod every couple gallons.
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