Seattle RC Racers/Hangar 30
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)

I am curious whether Seattle RC club is planning to upgrade the lap counting system to RC4 any time soon. I have mrt transponders and I am wondering how long I will be able to use them.

Hi Ed,
Our decoder is upgraded to RC4. MRT ptx's will not work on our system come the Fall.
Our decoder is upgraded to RC4. MRT ptx's will not work on our system come the Fall.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)

Thanks. Old amb's still work, right?

Yes, old amb's will work. Our rack of house transponders will still be on hand for those who need them.

ok so I went through that hole list that was posted,
1) the servo (without steering linkages attached and no power) with just the servo horn attached did not feel gritty moving back and forth and never got jammed up \
2) once powering on the car to check if the servo came back to place EVERYTIME after releasing the wheel. the servo horn came back everytime I tried it and I tried it about 20-30 times
3) after wiggling the servo horn there is know slop around the center of the horn it was as you said tight when the power was on
4) I reconnected all the links for steering and to the servo but before I did pull the steering block out and tightened the blue thumbnut as much as I could I can see a tiny bit of the inner spring now
5) the screw going through the top deck into the steering block I made sure it was fully torqued down using needle nose pliers like you recommended
6) there wasn't much slop in the steering when the car was on and I was playing with it. but I am going to go through every a arms taking the shocks off and making sure the a arms flow freely with ALL the links attached (camber,toe)
7) im using a regular stock (plastic) servo horn
8) my hinge pin blocks have not rotated from plan sight( that I can see)
im using stock springs and sway bars that came with the tc6.1 kit im sticking with a 5mm ride height im using the flat with no dot hinge pins and I do not know what my droop is set to
9) the balance on my car is pretty even I used the hole in the shock towers to check
1) the servo (without steering linkages attached and no power) with just the servo horn attached did not feel gritty moving back and forth and never got jammed up \
2) once powering on the car to check if the servo came back to place EVERYTIME after releasing the wheel. the servo horn came back everytime I tried it and I tried it about 20-30 times
3) after wiggling the servo horn there is know slop around the center of the horn it was as you said tight when the power was on
4) I reconnected all the links for steering and to the servo but before I did pull the steering block out and tightened the blue thumbnut as much as I could I can see a tiny bit of the inner spring now
5) the screw going through the top deck into the steering block I made sure it was fully torqued down using needle nose pliers like you recommended
6) there wasn't much slop in the steering when the car was on and I was playing with it. but I am going to go through every a arms taking the shocks off and making sure the a arms flow freely with ALL the links attached (camber,toe)
7) im using a regular stock (plastic) servo horn
8) my hinge pin blocks have not rotated from plan sight( that I can see)
im using stock springs and sway bars that came with the tc6.1 kit im sticking with a 5mm ride height im using the flat with no dot hinge pins and I do not know what my droop is set to
9) the balance on my car is pretty even I used the hole in the shock towers to check

Hello everyone. How long do tires usually last?
I plan on racing every week.
Right now on asphalt
In sept on carpet
Just trying to get an idea how long would it expect my tires to last?
I got a tc6.1 w/ d compounds.
Thank you
I plan on racing every week.
Right now on asphalt
In sept on carpet
Just trying to get an idea how long would it expect my tires to last?
I got a tc6.1 w/ d compounds.
Thank you
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)

Mine seemed to last forever on carpet. One day on asphalt, and the treads were 1/2 gone.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)

D compounds on carpet have a really long life, and actually get better as they wear

ok so I went through that hole list that was posted,
1) the servo (without steering linkages attached and no power) with just the servo horn attached did not feel gritty moving back and forth and never got jammed up \
2) once powering on the car to check if the servo came back to place EVERYTIME after releasing the wheel. the servo horn came back everytime I tried it and I tried it about 20-30 times
3) after wiggling the servo horn there is know slop around the center of the horn it was as you said tight when the power was on
4) I reconnected all the links for steering and to the servo but before I did pull the steering block out and tightened the blue thumbnut as much as I could I can see a tiny bit of the inner spring now
5) the screw going through the top deck into the steering block I made sure it was fully torqued down using needle nose pliers like you recommended
6) there wasn't much slop in the steering when the car was on and I was playing with it. but I am going to go through every a arms taking the shocks off and making sure the a arms flow freely with ALL the links attached (camber,toe)
7) im using a regular stock (plastic) servo horn
8) my hinge pin blocks have not rotated from plan sight( that I can see)
im using stock springs and sway bars that came with the tc6.1 kit im sticking with a 5mm ride height im using the flat with no dot hinge pins and I do not know what my droop is set to
9) the balance on my car is pretty even I used the hole in the shock towers to check
1) the servo (without steering linkages attached and no power) with just the servo horn attached did not feel gritty moving back and forth and never got jammed up \
2) once powering on the car to check if the servo came back to place EVERYTIME after releasing the wheel. the servo horn came back everytime I tried it and I tried it about 20-30 times
3) after wiggling the servo horn there is know slop around the center of the horn it was as you said tight when the power was on
4) I reconnected all the links for steering and to the servo but before I did pull the steering block out and tightened the blue thumbnut as much as I could I can see a tiny bit of the inner spring now
5) the screw going through the top deck into the steering block I made sure it was fully torqued down using needle nose pliers like you recommended
6) there wasn't much slop in the steering when the car was on and I was playing with it. but I am going to go through every a arms taking the shocks off and making sure the a arms flow freely with ALL the links attached (camber,toe)
7) im using a regular stock (plastic) servo horn
8) my hinge pin blocks have not rotated from plan sight( that I can see)
im using stock springs and sway bars that came with the tc6.1 kit im sticking with a 5mm ride height im using the flat with no dot hinge pins and I do not know what my droop is set to
9) the balance on my car is pretty even I used the hole in the shock towers to check

yes I checked everything steering with and without tires on and the block itself

What's your issue your having?

While you're doing that, also lift up one side and watch how much the other side lifts up. Then lift the other side and see how much the first side lifts. If they're pretty close to the same, you should be fine, but if there's a big difference, then the anti-roll bar could be tweaked.
im using stock springs and sway bars that came with the tc6.1 kit im sticking with a 5mm ride height im using the flat with no dot hinge pins
I do not know what my droop is set to
Anyway, it sounds like your radio gear is probably functioning just fine, and your steering centering issues are probably either now fixed (from tightening the servo saver), or stem from a bad setup and/or hitting the boards too much.

-Mike

ha all right ill check the blocks and last hanger season I ran two races with the green in the back and silver in the front

Here is the race schedule for this coming indoor season.
Schedule:
September
11/H30
21/CC
25/H30
October
5/CC
9/H30
19/CC
23/H30
November
13/H30
16/CC
30/CC
December
11/H30
14/CC
28/CC
January
8/H30
11/CC
22/H30
25/CC
February
8/CC
12/H30
22/CC
26/H30
March
8/CC
12/H30
22/CC
26/H30
April
5/CC Emerald City Classic
9/H30
19/CC
23/H30
Schedule:
September
11/H30
21/CC
25/H30
October
5/CC
9/H30
19/CC
23/H30
November
13/H30
16/CC
30/CC
December
11/H30
14/CC
28/CC
January
8/H30
11/CC
22/H30
25/CC
February
8/CC
12/H30
22/CC
26/H30
March
8/CC
12/H30
22/CC
26/H30
April
5/CC Emerald City Classic
9/H30
19/CC
23/H30
Tech Apprentice

Looks good Todd! I'm determined to get a car or two out there this season.
