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Seattle RC Racers/Hangar 30

Old 04-11-2012, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by OVA
I'm at 3.9FDR some are 3.5 -4.00 FDR
Thanks franko
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:14 AM
  #10127  
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Originally Posted by Rdog
I need a good starting fdr for scale spec 25.5 motor thanks guy
My GT40 (Ballistic 25.5t w/ timing @ Normal) is currently @ 3.5:1 FDR with a motor fan (temps @ about 130 F). I've run anywhere between 3.4:1 and 4.0:1. Motor temp isn't the driving factor. Choose FDR in the 3.5 to 4.0 range that gives the best lap times. For me, 3.5:1 seems to give the best lap times.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:23 AM
  #10128  
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Hi Sean,

do you have another of those super sprung, new fangled servo savers from X-ray in stock? if so, I'll take one.

Thanks,
Alex
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:35 AM
  #10129  
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Try coating the countersink hole with CA, similar to what you do with the edges of a new chassis. This should help the screw from vibrating loose. I do this for all my cars and I never have a problem with screws vibrating loose without locktight.

Regarding screws and stripping the hex. I try to avoid using aluminum screws for bulkheads and high stress load areas. Aluminum is too soft for these areas. Same with titanium, I try to use the 6/4 (6% aluminum, 4% vanadium) mix for bulkheads and high stress areas. 6/4 titanium is harder than 3/2. If you still have problems try stainless steel.

Originally Posted by bradshawkyle
Guys,

I'm about to set-up my drill press to drill out the fourth hex screw in as many weeks from my TC5. I started with the black ones that came with the kit, then "upgraded" to fancy blue ones that seem softer than the originals. I have a decent Integy tool set which doesn't appear to be rounding out the insides - my best guess is these screws are just too soft to use with loctite.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to buy reasonably priced (nothing made out of unobtanium, please) screws? Or is the "reasonable price" qualifier the reason I'm in this predicament. Any sage like wisdom would be MUCH appreciated.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bradshawkyle
Guys,

I'm about to set-up my drill press to drill out the fourth hex screw in as many weeks from my TC5. I started with the black ones that came with the kit, then "upgraded" to fancy blue ones that seem softer than the originals. I have a decent Integy tool set which doesn't appear to be rounding out the insides - my best guess is these screws are just too soft to use with loctite.

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to buy reasonably priced (nothing made out of unobtanium, please) screws? Or is the "reasonable price" qualifier the reason I'm in this predicament. Any sage like wisdom would be MUCH appreciated.
Fastenal. Or something like that, lots of local stores and once you buy there you realize how bad you've been getting screwed buying elsewhere.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by malkiy
Try coating the countersink hole with CA, similar to what you do with the edges of a new chassis. This should help the screw from vibrating loose. I do this for all my cars and I never have a problem with screws vibrating loose without locktight. .
Just to clarify, for the kids out there that may misinterpret : He means putting a thin layer of CA on the countersink hole BUT letting it FULLY DRY before putting a screw in.

btw, a Q-Tip works well.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by malkiy
Try coating the countersink hole with CA, similar to what you do with the edges of a new chassis. This should help the screw from vibrating loose. I do this for all my cars and I never have a problem with screws vibrating loose without locktight.
I use a "Q-tip" for this on CF chassis prep and the counter sunk holes are what I do before I get to the edges.

You can also carefully treat only the taper section of the screw with Loctite or, try coating the threads with a small drop of Loctite then allow it to completly dry before installing. This Last suggestion is what I do with my Capricorn Nitro Sedan, (Aluminum Chassis plate with steel screws into Aluminum Bulkheads, much more vibration and constant checking for missing and or thight screws !)
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Magnet Top
Just to clarify, for the kids out there that may misinterpret : He means putting a thin layer of CA on the countersink hole BUT letting it FULLY DRY before putting a screw in.

btw, a Q-Tip works well.
Too late. Next question: does anyone know where I can get a bucket of de-bonder large enough to fit a fully assembled chassis?

Excellent advice, fellas, I really appreciate it.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by skypilot
Fastenal. Or something like that, lots of local stores and once you buy there you realize how bad you've been getting screwed buying elsewhere.
If someone can find out the exact one, I would be interested in knowing as well. I just checked Fastenal, and not only their metric, but allen head especially are limited.
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by oXYnary
If someone can find out the exact one, I would be interested in knowing as well. I just checked Fastenal, and not only their metric, but allen head especially are limited.
Tacoma screw
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Rdog
Tacoma screw
Guess its the sizes I'm looking for that are more hobby only. (M1 to M1.6). Thanks though.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:10 PM
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Tacoma screw switches from shitty steel alloy to shitty stainless as sizes switch from M4 to M3. The hex is a loose fit and the threads are poorly formed. I am talking buttonhead and flathead here. Socket head is another story. Probably just as shitty.

Protek screws are noticeably better if steel is your thing.

Kyosho titanium screws are excellent if you don't mind the oversize button head. Mugen are also good, but the size of the buttonhead is outrageous.

On the regrettable occasion I put an aluminum screw in an aluminum part I use some kind of lubricant. Never loctite.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:18 PM
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Visit amainhobbies. They have 10 packs of screws in various sizes and materials.
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by oldrcr
Hi Sean,

do you have another of those super sprung, new fangled servo savers from X-ray in stock? if so, I'll take one.

Thanks,
Alex
#372503? Yes sir, they are in the Tub!
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:37 PM
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Tc4 spool?
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