jubilee

iTrader: (37)

fjm9898

iTrader: (11)

anyone have a xray spur gear? 007 running 17.5 class with a duo2 i plan on busting the ole gal our for the next Wednesday run on the 27th.

also 007 spares are always needed

PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

Jake's video is now on the home page.

Thanks again.

www.seattlercracers.com

mkdut

iTrader: (19)

R2D2?

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

I have a few noob questions i asked before but being i am at work it didnt come out how i expected. here is the revices version.

to race trans am or scale spec, what would i need? I normally race off road so I think i have alot of what is needed so i think i would need is a car and receiver. can anyone add what else?

do you guys run 64 pitch gears in your cars? or can 48 pitch be competative here?

what type of chassis would you recommend for the scale spec class?

and what bodies for the scale spec? if the answer for some of these are in the roar rulebook lemme know i will go look there.

and thansk for any answers given! =)

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Wayy to go Brett!! For making my old Schuie look good...nice run dude

DIALED

iTrader: (96)

Thanks, man. NO givebacks
A little more in rip department is in the works for next time--
Corey was making fun of me during the main!
Lots o fun last night guys

Magnet Top

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the positive comments, its hard to be objective.... I'd call it a rough edit but yeah, it'll fly and does the job. Future video's will be cut together with more care....

Charles, yes ! , lets do some in-car stuff, that would be fun. I may even dust off the steadicam. For now though, its nap time.

Jake

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

Nice vid Jake. It really catches the spirit of the club.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

I wonder if the in car action from Nats ever got posted anywhere, time to go for a search.

bshookup

iTrader: (21)

Here are the rules that I found on the Seattle RC Racers Website:

Scale Spec: 1/10th scale electric chassis. 5mm minimim ride height. Tamiya 540 silver can motor or USVTA-approved 25.5t brushless motor. ROAR-approved Sportsman ESC (Legacy ESC’s not on the ROAR-approved list will be admitted by the Comp Committee on an individual basis.) HPI D Compound tires. M-chassis cars are exempted from tire requirement. Realistic, scale bodies must be run on all chassis. Maximum 6-cell NiMH or NiCd batteries or maximum 7.4v 2S lithium technology batteries. Batteries must be on ROAR-approved list.

As for a car, you have a ton of options, but I believe a lot of people are running Xray at Hangar 30, so getting a used T2 007, 008, 009 or a T3 would be a great way to go because you could get lots of setup help.

48 pitch is just as competative as 64 pitch. 64 pitch is just a little quieter and gives you more gearing options to fine tune your gear ratio. You'll find 48 pitch on my TC most of the time. If you get an Xray you might have to use 64 because you may need to use Xray specific spur gears that are 64 pitch. Once you decide what motor route you are going to go with, then you will want to ask people running that motor to see what gear ratio you need and buy appropriate pinions and spurs. Your offroad pinions will probably not be quite the right size.

For a motor, you can pick up this:
This 25.5 motor: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/br...vta/index.html

OR, you can get a $20 Tamiya silver can motor which works just great.

You will need a realistic body. Some people run Vintage Trans Am bodies such as a 67 Corvette, 66 Mustang, 70 Cuda, or 68 camaro. You can find those bodies here:http://www.hpiracing.com/hpibodies/200mm/

Other people will run a more modern body. 200mm or 190mm will work, but I'd go with 190mm if running a newer style body. HPI makes some great realistic bodies: http://www.hpiracing.com/hpibodies/190mm/

If you are going to run a vintage body, you will want Vintage tires: http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/4797/

If you are going to run a newer body, you will want whels and tires such as these: http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/4733/

The best thing to do would be to go check out the next Hangar 30 race and talk to all the people running scale spec. I know that they would be happy to help you out.

rknott

iTrader: (6)

No news yet. Just heard from the guy at Novak I have been emailing and he got my motor today. He hasn't had a chance to dive into it yet. He said he would take a look tomorrow, but mentioned he didn't see an issue with filing the warranty claim.

I will still be shocked if I 'drew the short straw' and a brand new motor is bad, but prior to sending this in I didn't know what to investigate. After I sent it in Richie mentioned it might have to do with the timing on the motor possibly being advanced out of the box and that causing an issue. Since the manual went back with the paperwork I don't know if that is the case or if it is adjustable. Thinking about it now, I suppose I could dig up the manual on the internet, but without the motor in hand I can't do anything anyway.

I will have to say Novak cust service is excellent (so far). I have had a regular email conversation with a guy there. He said make sure I send the package ATTN to him. When I told him I had already sent it in, he said he would look for the package coming from me. He emailed me today to say he got it.

I will keep you updated as to what happens.

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

The SS isn't adjustable. The Ballistic is.

I got the ballistic, and it's been working fine with my Tekin. It seems quite fast, honestly.

EDIT: I haven't messed with the timing on the ballistic.

-Mike

Moogumby

iTrader: (32)

Thanks so much for the info BShookup.

I will make it out this upcoming wednesday and take a look.

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

The SS is adjustable. The colored ring at the end of the motor controls the timing. It just isn't AS adjustable.

-Korey