JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Hmmm ...Its all about dreaming BIG!

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

Thanks guys.

tutankhamen

iTrader: (9)

Was mulling over the idea of trekking down to TZII to do a little practice. Thats alot of gas for a one day trip, so anyone feel like a carpool situation?

Grant

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I was thinking the same thing

CharlesWA

Big thanks to everyone for the very helpful and informative evening! Special thanks Todd for putting the seminar together and Brian and Mike for sharing their knowledge. Extra special thanks to Kody for the great job wiring up my speed controller! Things turned out much better than my wiring plan. I would have probably had so much tweak in the car from the sensor wire and motor wires that I'd have had to run unmatched side springs to try to fix it.

I need to go through my notes and post a couple questions because I think I'm missing a few details. A couple that come to mind are what's the recommended starting front tire diameter if you're running a larger 1.80" rear configuration and what was the minimum recommended length on an AE .020" front spring before it's tossed.

One more that I thought of on the way home: Is it reasonable to offset the LiPo battery left or right a bit to help balance the car? My batteries (ProTek I think) don't have bumps on the bottom so I'm going to probably use servo tape and lexan to make some "keys" to lock them into the battery slots. I'm sure the left side will be heavy (Novak Havoc 1S ESC) and I could probably put the battery 3-5mm to the right before I get near the side link. Good idea or am I better off centering the battery and just balancing the chassis with a bit of lead once the car is all together?

mkdut

iTrader: (19)

1.70 to 1.75 on the front tire. I would center the battery and use evrything else to balance the chassis. Brian will remember for me what the minimum spring height is.

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

you don't need to key the battery in the slots, a simple piece of double sided scotch tape will hope it in place, or a couple of really small well placed pieces of servo tape.

tutankhamen

iTrader: (9)

Seems we are the only ones. . Altho most are like me and make a friday night secision.

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

10R5 front wheel bearings, book says .125x.313. Can't seem to find that size.. does 1/4x1/8 fit/work?

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

.125 is 1/8
.313 is 5/16

That's according to my calculator. I know nothing about pan cars.

EDIT: Maybe these?
http://www.avidrc.com/product/9/stan...-bearings.html

-Mike

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I like to run about a 1 to 1.5mm split on tires or: 45.5 to a 44.0 or in Jack conditions 42 to a 41. Asc front springs come out of the package at .255-.250". I chuck 'em at .235". I would always center the bat as it's something that you usually can not move, then secure your electronics accordingly... add ballast weight as a last ditch effort.

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I would be the first one leading the way, but it seems that I have a back log of actual "work" from taking that LV "week" off. What a pisser.

oXYnary

iTrader: (4)

You know, I'm curious; back in the old days we mounted tires and such. Has anyone thought of making a dual shore rear tire thats 3/4 yellow to the inside with say a slightly firmer/less chunky outside?

jubilee

iTrader: (37)

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the CRC grey-lo serve this purpose.

oXYnary

iTrader: (4)

yep.
/"CRC Pro-Cut 1/12th Gray-low 80/20 - 80% Yellow compound with a ring of Gray compound on the outside edge. Mounted on CRC High Roller 38 mm wheel. Great tire for 1/12th stock and modified! "

So does that extra 20% of yellow make all the difference then the suggestion using yellow rears versus the grey lo?