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Seattle RC Racers/Hangar 30

Old 08-26-2018, 12:18 AM
  #19021  
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Originally Posted by JeffofSpace View Post
Great fun today! Thanks everybody.
did you carpet race was today?
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:18 PM
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Any build tips/setup suggestions for a Hobbywing XR10 1S/G3 powered 12R6? I have been way out of the loop and have been reading some... Rochce front balls and a possible front screw mod is about all I have so far..

Please note... I hit $&ih .

Planning on doing a hobby reset and going back to the class that I have loved the most and want to see if a fresh start relights some of the passion...
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Old 08-27-2018, 03:41 PM
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Hey Kyle! Glad you're getting back into the 1/12th game.

The 12R6 is fast out of the box. After trying stuff last year, Stuart and I both wound up at the out-of-the-box numbers for the hard settings: wheel base, track width, 10 deg reactive, shock position. I actually think the kit parts in the front end are fine, including the balls. I have the Roche balls in mine, Stuart has the stock in his. He's faster. The only non-kit item I recommend is the 12R5.2 front pin brace. It's a direct fit with the kit settings. I started with the fancy bolt together item but ditched it for the simple carbon piece. It's a $5 part. Some people apparently CA the ball socket into the carbon arm. I've never bothered and they hold up fine.

Both the AE and the X-Ray use aluminum stand-offs for the front mounts. In a hard hit they can bend. A fix is to run a steel screw all the way up through and bolt the top (you'll understand once you build it.) It works to prevent the stand-off bend, but it basically takes away front ride height adjustment. I was good all season, but Stuart whacked his at Victoria on a Clik-Trak chicane and bent one. It took me awhile to diagnose the problem. I would say, on our track, in stock, you shouldn't have an issue (even adjusting for the Predmore factor!) I will also add that I plan to set up Stuart's mod car with the steel through-screws, but I'll leave mine alone, and Stuart's stock car will run without as well. It's just that his mod car is a missile, and we'll be racing some Clik-Trak tracks.

We use the new springs. We bounced between blue and yellow depending on the conditions at different tracks.

I'm a huge fan of the AMR body and run it in both mod and stock. Stuart favors the Strakka for stock. He has the H30 track record over Brian and me. Brian runs a Strakka sometimes, others a Lola. Brian's always working the problem.

We use the plastic (kit) arm inserts. Maybe the aluminum bits offer a little precision? I don't know. The new front is pretty darn stable as-is. Since I always use a pin brace, I think the need for the aluminum inserts (minimal as it may be) is negated altogether. The aluminum bits are a $40 option part.

Overall, the new school cars are all fast. Both the X-Ray and the AE, with the carbon arms, are fiddly to build and maintain. Just take your time!
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Old 08-27-2018, 03:53 PM
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I would just add that the composite front arm inserts give a little in the event of a hard crash when compared to the aluminum ones. The nice thing about that is it saves the lower carbon fiber arms from shattering. I have only broken one lower arm in 2 seasons and that was this past weekend at SeaTac when I got punted into the concrete drivers stand during a practice run. I personally would save the $40 and stick with the stock part as they really arent sloppy at all.

The only hop ups I run are the carbon fiber chassis and rear pod and different side and front springs. The rest of my 12r6 is box stock.
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Old 08-27-2018, 05:42 PM
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Thanks guys... I still have my 12R5/1/2 hoard and will just try and add stuff from my lovely sponsors. I have really missed the program up there and the zen-ness of 1/12. Logan survived the ECC and enjoyed it so I will use him as an excuse for father son time while the girls do girls stuff... they are always an option to but the boards aren't ready for that yet... 😍


The summer fell apart for my RC wise t
due to real life stuff... carpet time!
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:12 PM
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On the xray stand-offs I use a steel screw in one hole on each side and a titanium one on the other. That way in a hard hit the titanium shears to take the impact without bending the stand-off as the steel one swivels a bit. An alu screw, I found, is too soft to withstand the minor hits.
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:00 PM
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I'm down a hand at the moment due to a poor choice in tool to sperate some frozen hamburger patties but chipping away at the build. Great kit so far but the new trend with AE kits including steel turnbuckles is annoying... and a polished/chamfered edge on the chassis would have upped the level.

Looking for some final say on a couple of things...

Roll out for the new breed of 17.5, I'm using a HW v10 G3 17.5. We used to be around 100 with a 72 spur. Hoping to stick with one spur for our 17.5 and Rose Cities 13.5... booked our room for the 2 day. Bribed the family with an indoor pool and my wife is into Rae Dunn (her addiction) so she is planning a Vancouver/Portland round.

Tire size ( Club specs)

1/8 or 3/32 diff balls?

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Old 09-01-2018, 09:06 PM
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I was at low 80s with MC2 17.5 With team scream itís high 70s. Not real sure what to do with my 60 tooth pinion now!

Been starting w 42 or 42.5 f/r for tires...mostly because the fronts go pretty quickly.

Balls depend on spur gear. 1/8th pretty standard if I remember right what I have going.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:05 PM
  #19029  
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Club Meeting
Wednesday, September 19
7pm
Wedgwood Broiler
15th Ave NE & NE 85th St
Seattle, WA 98115


Come to the Broiler to get the lowdown on the new rules, purchase a Maclan Scale Spec motor, and give your input into the club's programs.
Agenda to follow shortly.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:16 PM
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Is it just me or has anyone had ZERO luck with the whole "16 ball" thing with the 3/32" balls and CRC spurs?? The damn rings barely, if at all, even hit the balls. Maybe i used 3/31" balls.... LOL.
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Old 09-12-2018, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
Is it just me or has anyone had ZERO luck with the whole "16 ball" thing with the 3/32" balls and CRC spurs?? The damn rings barely, if at all, even hit the balls. Maybe i used 3/31" balls.... LOL.
Save yourself some headache and only use spurs that use 1/8" diff balls.

Xenon is my favorite, but they can be difficult to get at times. RW, Axon and Kimbrough are all great alternatives.

-Korey
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Old 09-12-2018, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
Is it just me or has anyone had ZERO luck with the whole "16 ball" thing with the 3/32" balls and CRC spurs?? The damn rings barely, if at all, even hit the balls. Maybe i used 3/31" balls.... LOL.
Kyle, use you Xacto to carve off some of the plastic bearing shoulder at the center of the spur on each side. Thickness, not the diameter that the bearing sits in.
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:59 PM
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Thanks guys... I will carve instead of reorder.... I believe thats what i've had to do before. Although a ball less locked diff may be the latest and GREATEST..LOL. Also, where does one source the spec JFT/Flo yellow rim tires at besides trackside? Want to have the car ready to throwdown. I will be buying a few sets from the club as well... going to look dialed with my off road paint scheme...
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:03 PM
  #19034  
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destinyrcusa.com

jft on sale now

but...cmon...support the club!
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Old 09-13-2018, 08:57 PM
  #19035  
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Default CLUB MEETING 9/19 7:00PM - AT THE BROILER

I am not sure, but Todd will, or could be asked to bring some of the spec JFT tires to the CLUB MEETING WEDNESDAY 9/19 7:00pm AT THE BROILER, and you can just get them then while you are there like all the rest of our clubs racers in attendance. I was going to ask him to do that so I could get a couple sets as well.
-a
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Originally Posted by Logi Maker View Post
Thanks guys... I will carve instead of reorder.... I believe thats what i've had to do before. Although a ball less locked diff may be the latest and GREATEST..LOL. Also, where does one source the spec JFT/Flo yellow rim tires at besides trackside? Want to have the car ready to throwdown. I will be buying a few sets from the club as well... going to look dialed with my off road paint scheme...
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