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Seattle RC Racers/Hangar 30

Old 09-10-2014, 09:06 AM
  #16261  
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Originally Posted by Carnage9270
Think you got the big ones there Kyle. I freed up my 6.1 and 6.2 with basically the same strategy. Where I found all my bind to be in the diff/spool. Sanding the outside edges of the cams is very helpful, but dont forget to shim up the bulkhead caps if needed as well. Best way to tell if they are free is to take the belts and dcv's off and give it a spin with your finger. If it's not extremely free spinning, start again. They should spin for a very long time. Also check the spur gear assembly, it can bind a little as well (just make sure the gear mesh isn't too tight, it'll cause a little bind as well). With those 3 things spinning freely you should be good.
Huh....wow, Mike. Apparently all those trips to school on the little bus, licking the windows are an indicator of my overall aptitude. I had no idea that shimming the bulkhead cap would help, however not that you mention it I can see how it would. Same goes for sanding the outside of the cams - do you sand both the cam holder and the bearing cam? What about the shim between the diff and the bearing - do you still use them?
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:06 AM
  #16262  
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Let me expand a little on freeing up the cams. There are two ways they can bind: at the Diff bearing cam and at the cam holder. Best way to figure out where the bind is coming from is to just put the bearing cam (inside part) on the diff or spool and give it a spin. It should spin freely in your hand. Once that is free, put the cam holder on and slip it in the bulkhead, it should slide in very smoothly without pressure. I could literally drop mine in the bulkheads. Pay attention to where the bind comes from, is it side to side or from the cam holder being too tight front to back. If you can get it spinning freely just resting in the bulkhead with no bulkhead cap on, you're golden. Then put the bulkhead cap on and test to see if you have any bind at that point. If it isn't spinning as freely as it was, then try shimming up the bulkhead cap with .1 or .2 mm shims.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by bradshawkyle
Huh....wow, Mike. Apparently all those trips to school on the little bus, licking the windows are an indicator of my overall aptitude. I had no idea that shimming the bulkhead cap would help, however not that you mention it I can see how it would. Same goes for sanding the outside of the cams - do you sand both the cam holder and the bearing cam? What about the shim between the diff and the bearing - do you still use them?
Yes to all of that

If you're getting binding from side to side you can sand a little off of the diff/spool. But that shim is there to ensure the bearing isn't hitting the plastic on the diff housing. There are thinner shims you can use there too. Kody has those bad boys.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:20 AM
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Also, we can meet up at some point as well and I can show you where I found bind to be happening. So much easier to show you than it is to type. I'm pretty horrible when it comes to typing out instructions.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Carnage9270
Also, we can meet up at some point as well and I can show you where I found bind to be happening. So much easier to show you than it is to type. I'm pretty horrible when it comes to typing out instructions.
That's super helpful, thanks so much! I'll give it a shot and let you know if I can't make any progress on my own. If I'm stuck, I may take you up on the offer.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:23 AM
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When it's all said and done, your motor will thank you. hehe
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut
Ok, non-rules related question. Can someone point me to a source of the thin rubber pads that people put under their lipos to prevent them from sliding around? I know they raise the lipo a bit, but my unicorn doesn't have battery braces and the Hudy tape isn't doing a great job keeping the battery in place. I can slide it about 1/8" forwards and backwards before the tape stops it.

Thanks!

This is what I'm using. Very tacky and thin.

http://flexinno.com/shop#!/Circles-4...ategory=411410
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by malkiy
This is what I'm using. Very tacky and thin.

http://flexinno.com/shop#!/Circles-4...ategory=411410
Interesting....I dated a a girl once that fit the same description....
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by malkiy
This is what I'm using. Very tacky and thin.

http://flexinno.com/shop#!/Circles-4...ategory=411410
Thanks for that link mike. i just ordered some of those. I saw you and ritchie messing with a sheet of those last weekend and was wondering about those. there was a strip on the awesomatix that i had and i really liked it. good link to have.
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Old 09-10-2014, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bradshawkyle
I have a prep-related question for the dinosaurs among us still running a belt drive chassis: do you have any recommendations on freeing up the drivetrain? I'm running a TC6.1 and TC6 and would really like to free things up as much as possible. I've already swapped bearings, so other ideas I've come up with include:
  • File plastic parts where bearings are installed to allow them to slip in and out more easily.
  • Switch from 48p to 64p gears.

Are any of these gonna help? Anything else I missed? Lastly, do any of you see a benefit from balancing wheels/tires in VTA? I tried it about a year ago with a prop balancer and some modeling clay and didn't see much of an improvement.
If you've got spare old belts you could try this. Snip every OTHER tooth off the belts and it should free it up a bit. Ceramic bearings or removing bearing covers and the thick grease with in then replacing with light bearing oil.
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Old 09-10-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LEM C
If you've got spare old belts you could try this. Snip every OTHER tooth off the belts and it should free it up a bit. Ceramic bearings or removing bearing covers and the thick grease with in then replacing with light bearing oil.
he could also try some dry lube that kody/velocity hobbies carries.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:43 PM
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Degreasing bearings is something I'm a big fan of. I take off all shields, soak them in kerosene for 5-10 minutes, then rinse with rubbing alcohol and/or motor spray. When they all dry, I use Gravity RC bearing oil, a drop or two is all you need. After that, they free spin like crazy. I'm going to try running with just "outside" metal shields on carpet, see how it goes.

Once these bearings go, though, I'm thinking the new Avid RC AURA bearings *drool*cash*drool*

And yes, thank you for the link to the rubber anti-slip dots. Ordered!
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:36 PM
  #16273  
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I removed just one side of the rubber shielded bearings on my arc kit. cleaned the grease out and used the dry lube. dry lube wont attract dirt. since its dry lubrication. oil will eventually attract some dirt. but not as bad as grease. my car is very free spinning after doing all that mike boyle and kody had suggested. i mount the shields to the outside to keep any dirt out. the dry lube works very well.
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Old 09-10-2014, 06:56 PM
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Belt cars can be free'd up to spinning about 5 seconds without the pinion by spinning the wheels mounted on it. thats about what i would shoot for.

My Ta05 i got to spin up to 6 seconds.

My awesomatix was spinning for 19 seconds and is now spinning 32 seconds after proper shimming and using the dry lube i got from Kody

One or 2 drops goes a long way. I dont think you want any more than 2 drops. Then again i clean and lube my bearings every 3 race days.

On my 417v5 and TC6.1 if you tighten the bulkheads too much that is when it binds. Also if your belts are too tight it will be less efficient. too loose could also skip belts. There is a happy medium.
I usually install all the pulleys, spool without belts first... and see if all 3 spins free.

you could use shims like Mike B says which i have never tried. I use red locktite to keep the screws from poping out. I screw just until it stops and i dont tighten it. Never lost any screws out of my car.

Learned this from the Tamiya guru Troy Crabtree... who probably has a Ta05 that spins for more than 6 seconds and a Evo 5 that spins for 21 seconds
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by -jacob-
My awesomatix was spinning for 19 seconds and is now spinning 32 seconds after proper shimming and using the dry lube i got from Kody
< crickets >

Way to kill the thread Jacob !!!
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