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Seattle RC Racers/Hangar 30

Old 09-09-2014, 07:29 PM
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your killin me ritchie. lol.


deleted that HUGE post. lol.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:32 PM
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ok. hows this. leave everything as is but encourage (not mandatory)scale racing paint schemes. thats all im askin for. just makes the cars look better on track.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:34 PM
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You guys are essentially debating what's already in our updated rules: http://seattlercracers.com/specsrules/

There are better ways to up your post count or alleviate boredom at work
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by metalnut
You guys are essentially debating what's already in our updated rules: http://seattlercracers.com/specsrules/

There are better ways to up your post count or alleviate boredom at work
Thanks you Adam for taking the time and reading our new Specs and Rules page.

K
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:02 PM
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cept I wasnt debating... just saying I aint doing it..
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:08 PM
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Ok, non-rules related question. Can someone point me to a source of the thin rubber pads that people put under their lipos to prevent them from sliding around? I know they raise the lipo a bit, but my unicorn doesn't have battery braces and the Hudy tape isn't doing a great job keeping the battery in place. I can slide it about 1/8" forwards and backwards before the tape stops it.

Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:33 PM
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Potentiality stupid question here. .. What is a unicorn, in regards to rc?
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dragonracing
ok. hows this. leave everything as is but encourage (not mandatory)scale racing paint schemes. thats all im askin for. just makes the cars look better on track.
The Answer is NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by big al
Potentiality stupid question here. .. What is a unicorn, in regards to rc?
Oh, that's just me being secretive for absolutely no reason whatsoever It's not really a unicorn, just a less common kit since it's "limited production". Think shaft drive that's not an Awesomatix and a pain in the butt to assemble. Oh yeah, and anodized blue
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by metalnut
Ok, non-rules related question. Can someone point me to a source of the thin rubber pads that people put under their lipos to prevent them from sliding around? I know they raise the lipo a bit, but my unicorn doesn't have battery braces and the Hudy tape isn't doing a great job keeping the battery in place. I can slide it about 1/8" forwards and backwards before the tape stops it.

Thanks!
try a silly pad... or a cell phone anti skid pad.
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Old 09-10-2014, 05:07 AM
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Double sided Scotch tape. Also works
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:51 AM
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Www.e-grips.com
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:10 AM
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www.shoegoo.com . I only use one battery all season, so it works just fine.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:20 AM
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I have a prep-related question for the dinosaurs among us still running a belt drive chassis: do you have any recommendations on freeing up the drivetrain? I'm running a TC6.1 and TC6 and would really like to free things up as much as possible. I've already swapped bearings, so other ideas I've come up with include:
  • File plastic parts where bearings are installed to allow them to slip in and out more easily.
  • Switch from 48p to 64p gears.

Are any of these gonna help? Anything else I missed? Lastly, do any of you see a benefit from balancing wheels/tires in VTA? I tried it about a year ago with a prop balancer and some modeling clay and didn't see much of an improvement.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bradshawkyle
I have a prep-related question for the dinosaurs among us still running a belt drive chassis: do you have any recommendations on freeing up the drivetrain? I'm running a TC6.1 and TC6 and would really like to free things up as much as possible. I've already swapped bearings, so other ideas I've come up with include:
  • File plastic parts where bearings are installed to allow them to slip in and out more easily.
  • Switch from 48p to 64p gears.

Are any of these gonna help? Anything else I missed? Lastly, do any of you see a benefit from balancing wheels/tires in VTA? I tried it about a year ago with a prop balancer and some modeling clay and didn't see much of an improvement.
Think you got the big ones there Kyle. I freed up my 6.1 and 6.2 with basically the same strategy. Where I found all my bind to be in the diff/spool. Sanding the outside edges of the cams is very helpful, but dont forget to shim up the bulkhead caps if needed as well. Best way to tell if they are free is to take the belts and dcv's off and give it a spin with your finger. If it's not extremely free spinning, start again. They should spin for a very long time. Also check the spur gear assembly, it can bind a little as well (just make sure the gear mesh isn't too tight, it'll cause a little bind as well). With those 3 things spinning freely you should be good. Then it's all about belt tension. I run em tight enough that they wont skip when slamming the breaks, but just barely. Depending on the type of bearing you are using, some people pop the inner seals out of the wheel bearings to free them up a bit. I use steel shield bearings so i dont have to do that.
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