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Old 05-20-2006, 09:23 PM   #76
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I took the clutch to my track and had one of the hotshoes look at it. He had it figured out in 30 seconds. The problem was so silly I'm almost embarrased to admit what it was. But, once fixed, setting the clutch up went just as explained in the instructions.
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Old 05-21-2006, 01:30 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
I took the clutch to my track and had one of the hotshoes look at it. He had it figured out in 30 seconds. The problem was so silly I'm almost embarrased to admit what it was. But, once fixed, setting the clutch up went just as explained in the instructions.
So, spill the beans. If only to save others from future embarrasment
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:08 AM   #78
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Well, it turns out the slide shoes were upside down.

The diagram in the manual shows a 2 piece sliding shoe, and unfortunately it was hard to see what side the beveled edge of the shoe faced. My clutch had a 4 piece slide shoe, making it a bit more interesting. Having never built one of these before,(and seeing letters pressed into the top of the shoes) I assumed they faced up. After they were turned upside down, it went together and got setup just as I read with no problem.
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:17 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Well, it turns out the slide shoes were upside down.

The diagram in the manual shows a 2 piece sliding shoe, and unfortunately it was hard to see what side the beveled edge of the shoe faced. My clutch had a 4 piece slide shoe, making it a bit more interesting. Having never built one of these before,(and seeing letters pressed into the top of the shoes) I assumed they faced up. After they were turned upside down, it went together and got setup just as I read with no problem.
Are you talking about the flyweigh or the clutch shoe...?
Long time ago, one of the racer came over and show me something similar...once I open it up, it happened he filped that metal clutch shoe plate upside down.........I saw that happened at least 3 times.
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Old 05-21-2006, 05:18 PM   #80
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hell centax clutches cant be that hard to install.....i mean like its only a few ball bearings and a flywheel n stuff....geez lol
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Old 05-21-2006, 05:58 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Are you talking about the flyweigh or the clutch shoe...?
Long time ago, one of the racer came over and show me something similar...once I open it up, it happened he filped that metal clutch shoe plate upside down.........I saw that happened at least 3 times.
i did just that when i first fitted a centax, i could'nt work out why the clutch would'nt engage untill i saw that the plate was stopping the fly weights from moving out
as for them 'notbeing that hard to install', if your doing it for the first time
with a packet with 20plus pieces in there and the instructions are'nt clear
i'm sure i'd rather fit a savage clutch as i know which would be easier to figure out
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:33 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Are you talking about the flyweigh or the clutch shoe...?
Long time ago, one of the racer came over and show me something similar...once I open it up, it happened he filped that metal clutch shoe plate upside down.........I saw that happened at least 3 times.
The flyweights. I had everything else right.

Funny you should mention that metal clutch shoe. I flipped that upsde down to see if it made a difference. It didn't, since the flyweights were wrong to begin with.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:17 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Funny you should mention that metal clutch shoe. I flipped that upsde down to see if it made a difference. It didn't, since the flyweights were wrong to begin with.
Even with the fly-weights installed correctly, flipping the metal plate doesn't make a difference when your assembling the clutch.
BUT when you try to run your car, then you will notice the difference.......
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:55 PM   #84
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I think one other thing that hangs people up with setting up the clutch is the difference in the GAP and the ENDPLAY.

Correct me if I'm wrong (because I usually am), the gap is the amount of space the clutch shoe will move forward before engaging the clutch bell. This should be between 0.5 and 0.7 mm, depending on how you want the clutch to engage. The endplay is how much the clutch bell itself moves back and forth along the crankshaft, which should be no more tham .1 or .2 mm (much like a standard clutch bell)

Is this right, or am I waaaaaaay off base? It was hard getting around this concept coming from a standard clutch, which I know will throw others off.
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:52 PM   #85
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i feel a huge different when using a centax and a normal clutch
i prefer the centax i cant see why i should hate it..
it just makes my day :P
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Old 05-25-2006, 09:37 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
I think one other thing that hangs people up with setting up the clutch is the difference in the GAP and the ENDPLAY.

Correct me if I'm wrong (because I usually am), the gap is the amount of space the clutch shoe will move forward before engaging the clutch bell. This should be between 0.5 and 0.7 mm, depending on how you want the clutch to engage. The endplay is how much the clutch bell itself moves back and forth along the crankshaft, which should be no more tham .1 or .2 mm (much like a standard clutch bell)

Is this right, or am I waaaaaaay off base? It was hard getting around this concept coming from a standard clutch, which I know will throw others off.
You got it EXACTLY right, Spenzalii !
Endplay should be minimized... .1 is acceptable, but .2 is too much.
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Old 05-25-2006, 10:55 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCauley
You got it EXACTLY right, Spenzalii !
Endplay should be minimized... .1 is acceptable, but .2 is too much.
Yes....0.2mm is too much....if you cannot tell how is 0.1mm gap feel like.....like Glenn mentioned before, you should be able to spin the pinion freely without binding, then when you put everything together, and pull the pinion away from the clutch, you should have a very very very very very little of room to pull that away, very little, but still a little room...very little is the key, and no binding.

Manual say you need 1 little shim to eliminate the end play....not necessary true, on 1 of my OS engine, I need like good 3-4 0.1mm shim to make it like 0.1mm end play only........so, different engine has different spec, you have to understand the concept behind it.
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:06 AM   #88
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Good. Now I know I have it set up correctly. I had to go back in and add a shim or two to get that endplay straightened out, but I should be ready to put the car on the track this weekend. Thanks for all the help and tutorials guys!
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Old 05-26-2006, 05:44 PM   #89
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I have had so many discussions about this subject. I am an experienced racer and have had some thrust bearing issues. Don't go into techy talk and saying I am doing something wrong, I know very well how to set up a clutch(centax) however it comes down to trust for me. I know some of my fellow racers have never had an issue with a thrust bearing blow but I have and when it does kiss your racer over.

I have experimented with different alternative methods for ensuring and bullet proofing my drivetrain for a 1hr main, and I am sorry for all you thrust bearing fanatics but I have no faith or trust in the thrust bearing.

Curently I am using a high end bearing that was rubber sealed, I take the rubber seals out and pack it with Tamiya anti-wear grease. I then use a shim the size of the smaller metal bearing ring on 1 side of the bearing and a side from a thrust bearing with the grooves placed towards the regular bearing(I very carefully dremmeled down and made sure it was smooth! the inner part of the thrust bearing plate so that it did not touch the smaller bearing ring and made direct contact with the larger bearing ring(i made sure to properly lube everything)

This is my fix and since I have built I have never had any problems and felt 100% confident in my clucth for not just a 1hr main but entire race weekend or longer, I have done over 10 race weekends and when I take everything apart everything is just the way I first ran it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Palmaris Europe

Effectively, all you have down is made a thrust bearing from a standard bearing. Doing it this way will work fine as you have changed the direction of the forces being placed on the bearing.


Your right, except the minor differences, the trust bearing is compised of 3 seperate peices that rely on eachother to function. I know what I have done is effectively added more pecies(5) that need to work together to create the same effect.

However since the regular bearing does not work off of thrust / pressure (This may not come out right) to function but relys on the rotational functionality no pressure is put on the actual ball bearings and their housing, as all blown thrust bearings are due to a failure in this structure.

Please do not make an arguement out of this reply as I am not saying that a thrust bearing is better or worse then my fix I have found, both options work, as I mentioned most people I have discussed this with have been using the same thrust bearing for seasons, "I" just feel more comfortable with the what I have come up with.

By all means for eveyone try it out!!! it takes about 10mins to make and u alredy have the thrust bearing plate just need the right shims which are the gap play shims.

Morgan

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Old 02-18-2007, 06:12 PM   #90
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Since mytsn.com has updated I cannot seem to get to the centax articles. Is it me or is there a secret way to get to them?
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