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Old 05-18-2006, 02:57 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCauley
Yeah, I had thought about doing something like that a long time ago, for a software demonstration.

To make it good, you have to really plan it out... plan all the scripts, storyboarding, shots/closeups, etc. etc...
You need producers, a movie company to release your story, if it is interesting enough....
And then you need to take shots, a camera man, with a steady hand......get rid of the bloopers...
a lot of work......
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Old 05-18-2006, 03:00 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by GlennCauley
I wouldn't want to break an expensive video camera by having it focus on me. Maybe I'd do like one of those informants... have my face in shadow and my voice electronically altered.

All kidding aside, this is an idea worth considering...
I don't worry about seeing your face on DVD or such....but I am concerning about the LICENSING...may be you are some famous movie star and suddenly a CENTAX 101 DVD cost like $199.99 plus $59.99 shipping and handling instead of $20...

From all the ppl I have talk to that don't know anything about Centax, they have a difficult time to understand CLUTCH GAP and END play...they think after they get the clutch together, then pulling the clutch bell and see a little spacing (like you mentioned, 0.1-0.2mm end play).......already assumed their CLUTCH GAP is 0.6mm to 0.7mm apart........they never know the shoe they are using might be 0.1mm or more OFF due to normal wear, and the clutch gap may be 1mm apart or more.........plus their clutch gap setup might be wrong at the beginning....etc.

Serpent DIAGRAM is not the easiest to understand.....nor the wording. For new driver that have never deal with centax, like those who race EP most of their life and GP is new to them.........that might be their nightmare.

Thats why I think your #42 post wording is very EASY to understnad....may be a short 10 minutes video clip will solved this long lasting problem for a lot of RC ppl.......(including me, now, I am doubting DO I KNOW CENTAX..?)

About the video....don't overkill yourself, this is not american idol audition tape, you just need to show the CLUTCH GAP and the END PLAY, when ppl see you pulling the clutch housing, and SEEING the actual distance of the shoe and the housing in real life object, I think everyone will understand.

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 05-18-2006 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 05-18-2006, 03:02 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
If you get one of those dark masks and alter your voice , that would make the video +1. I also said same thing to cyrul , he needs to make a video. I started to do one , but I need an assistant.
I was thinking EXACTLY the same thing but I can't remember what 'TECHNIQUE" that I was refering for Cyrul......his engine BREAK IN methrod does WORTH a DVD....engine tunning (all needles, plugs, exhaust)...defintiely worth the $20...
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Old 05-18-2006, 03:05 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Thats funny you mention that clutch , thats what type of engagement I was going for and.......I have it! I used to run the racer2 and this is what im used to. Yes I run a parkinglot track that is tight , basically a good 19T electric touring track.

I have some video of my car last race , ill post it up soon. This also enabled me to get TQ last race. As well I had 25% fuel left in the tank.

Slight throttle blips get my car moving.
I know hows that feel...but really, use the regular clutch, like my NTC3, nothing (including the MUGAN syntec) works better then its own original 2 shoes finger type clutch...........sometime, simplicty is the answer.
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Old 05-18-2006, 11:37 PM   #65
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OK, either I must be doing something wrong, or something is set up incorrectly, because this isn't working!

Here's where I'm at. Once I set the clutch up to set the gap (outer bearing in clutchbell, thrust bearing, retainer, screw) and tighten it down, there is absolutely NO play at all. I can't pull the clutch bell from the shoe because there is no space, no gap, nothing. If I remove one of the flanges from the clutch bearing and replace it with a shim (so I have one bearing flange, the actual bearing, and a shim, then the retainer) then I have some movement. It's almost as if the bearing is too big (5x10x4), the flanges are too thick or the retainer isn't long enough. What could I be doing wrong?
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Old 05-19-2006, 01:32 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by spenzalii
OK, either I must be doing something wrong, or something is set up incorrectly, because this isn't working!

Here's where I'm at. Once I set the clutch up to set the gap (outer bearing in clutchbell, thrust bearing, retainer, screw) and tighten it down, there is absolutely NO play at all. I can't pull the clutch bell from the shoe because there is no space, no gap, nothing. If I remove one of the flanges from the clutch bearing and replace it with a shim (so I have one bearing flange, the actual bearing, and a shim, then the retainer) then I have some movement. It's almost as if the bearing is too big (5x10x4), the flanges are too thick or the retainer isn't long enough. What could I be doing wrong?

Did you put any shims between the cone and the engine bearing? Did you use the cone that came with the engine or the one with the clutch? What type of engine? What make of clutch?

Can you make a pic showing the front of the engine and the clutch. A side view would help most!
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Old 05-19-2006, 08:03 AM   #67
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[QUOTE=Julius]Did you put any shims between the cone and the engine bearing? Did you use the cone that came with the engine or the one with the clutch? What type of engine? What make of clutch?

Can you make a pic showing the front of the engine and the clutch. A side view would help most![/QUOTE

I don't know what car you have but your note on flanges on the bearings seems odd. I have only had standard bearings in my clutches for my mugens.
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Old 05-19-2006, 10:25 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
Did you put any shims between the cone and the engine bearing? Did you use the cone that came with the engine or the one with the clutch? What type of engine? What make of clutch?

Can you make a pic showing the front of the engine and the clutch. A side view would help most!
Let's see:

Engine: NSR12S5
Clutch: Ofna power clutch
Using Cone that came with clutch. Instructions do NOT have a shim between the collet and engine bearing, so one was not used.

At this point the only thing I can figure that can possibly be is that the spring tension nut isn't screwed down far enough. I'll pull it down at lunch to see what's what.
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Old 05-19-2006, 10:43 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
Let's see:

Engine: NSR12S5
Clutch: Ofna power clutch
Using Cone that came with clutch. Instructions do NOT have a shim between the collet and engine bearing, so one was not used.

At this point the only thing I can figure that can possibly be is that the spring tension nut isn't screwed down far enough. I'll pull it down at lunch to see what's what.
I am sure that has nothing to do with that spring tensioning nut (I assumed that nut was dialed in at least showing 1 thread from the main nut)....your clutch is lock tight is because the retainer (the piece before the M3 screw) are short (it is not short in design, there must be some shimming you are missing and cause that) and after you screw everything in, it compressed too tight...
AE does have those little shim to space off that retainer so the retainer will make at least 0.1mm off to the end of the crank shaft, but that only give you a free spinning of the shaft, DOES NOT mean your clutch setting is correct.

I have not know there is 1 centax system does not require ANY shimming between engine bearing and the cone collet.........try a 0.5mm shim first (like all the centax use for starter) and see what happen.....I cannot find the OFNA power clutch manual, if you do have one...post it and someone might spot something that you are missing....
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:01 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I have not know there is 1 centax system does not require ANY shimming between engine bearing and the cone collet.........try a 0.5mm shim first (like all the centax use for starter) and see what happen.....I cannot find the OFNA power clutch manual, if you do have one...post it and someone might spot something that you are missing....
He already doesn't have enough room. Putting a shim behind the collet will make that even worse! I do not use a shim behind the collet on my centax3/Mega ZX combo.

Shims behind the collet are only usefull if you need a lot of shims (at least more than 0.7mm) on the thrust bearing retainer.
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:18 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
I'll have to post up some pictures once I get home. I've tried the setup as mentioned for my clutch, but once I tighten down that machine screw, there is no play at all, regardless if I have that inner bearing in or not. I'll check to see if the outer bearing is seated correctly, but I believe it is.
If the clutchbell is binding when you tighten the machine screw down, but spins freely before, then you need to use some very small shims between the head of the machine screw and the end of the crank shaft
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Old 05-19-2006, 11:30 AM   #72
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Julius is correct... sometimes you DON'T need to put a shim behind the flywheel cone... it is dependent on the motor. I usually ran NR-based motors, and always had to use at least 0.5mm shim... sometimes 0.7mm; because with the 0.5mm shim I had to add a LOT of shims on the thrustbearing collar to get the clutch gap down to what I wanted.

Something else to consider... are you using all original OEM parts, esp. the shims? I have heard of some people using any old shims that fit but had wrong outer diameters... that is sometimes a problem since things touch & bind when they shouldn't.


If worst comes to worst... send it to me and I'll set it up for you...
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Old 05-19-2006, 12:56 PM   #73
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I am using the shims from the kit. I'll see if I can make the setup instructions a pfd and post it up in a bit.
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Old 05-20-2006, 10:33 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julius
He already doesn't have enough room. Putting a shim behind the collet will make that even worse! I do not use a shim behind the collet on my centax3/Mega ZX combo.

Shims behind the collet are only usefull if you need a lot of shims (at least more than 0.7mm) on the thrust bearing retainer.
I thknk you are correct.........I have not have 1 clutch setup without even a 0.1mm shim....thats why I thought all centax required at least 1. Again, one of you 2...make a video, I am sure there are plenty of ppl are willing to buy, including me.
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Old 05-20-2006, 02:42 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spenzalii
It's almost as if the bearing is too big (5x10x4), the flanges are too thick or the retainer isn't long enough. What could I be doing wrong?
Maybe that's something to check....
A "Serpent" Centax has a 5x10x3mm bearing there.....

try setting your clutch gap with ONLY the trustbearing installed, so no bearings in the clutchbell itself (not even the smallest one)......
This 5x10x4mm bearing from you might interfear with the gapsettings.....
Maybe get a 5x10x3mm bearing instead.......
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