Clutch for MRX5
 

Hey just wondering if someone can help me a bit. I have a Mugen Mrx5 WC with a Nova .21 9 port in it. I don't want to the centrax clutch on and want to put a 3 shoe clutch as i will not be racing it, so will just be for hobby. I have looked at the MGT7 clutch and was wondering if that would fit ?? If it would can you send me some info on one that would fit or a few links??

Cheers
Adam

Even though you aren't racing, why not use the centax?

I doubt anything but a centax would fit. There won't be the room for the much larger end bell and longer clutch.

GrandeGixxer: Main reason is I have had trouble with the endplay on the Nova .21 and so also feel it would be easier... Am i wrong? I end up with around 1mm of endplay after setting the clutch gap. What is the measurement for the clutch nut... Is it .4 from the nut to the end of the thread?? Can I get a shorter bearing stopper??

dan_vector: No worries at all, On the centax clutch does the plate that goes over the three shoes that sit right behind the flywheel have to spin?

The MGT7 is using the same gearbox so it could be possible, but I do not know if that clutch has the same offset as the centax style.

On the other hand, the centax style once known with it you will build it almost blindfully

Search on youtube to SALVEN CENTAX and you will find a very handy instruction video.

I was going to suggest the same video. Alberto picco has one too that is very good. If they are in stock, dollar hobbyz would be your cheapest place to buy one to try for the mgt7.

https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/collect...gen-seiki+mgt7

Looks like it would be about $90.

if that's y u want to use a different clutch cause u end up with .1 gap on the end play? well that's what it should be .1-.2 so u are fine even if u have alittle less or alittle more that's fine, use what comes with the car don't listen to try anything else u will wind up spending wasted dollars in the end and it wont ne right

Yeah the problem i had with the WC clutch and had way to much end play, however I ended up getting .5mm machined professionally off the bearing stopper which has helped greatly. Doing some research and and thinking about it, i might take your advice and stick to the centax and see how it goes.

So just checking, does the end play have to be exactly between 1 - 2mm or just aslong as the clutch bell isn't touching clutch and there is a little movement? What exactly does the end play do?

I set my clutch gap to a 0.6mm. Also i have had a problem before as I took it out and after around 2 minutes of run time the end play increased majorly and there was clutch dust... I know i didn't do the clutch correctly but can someone explain sort of what exactly happened?

Thanks for the help :)

If you have the steel rings of an old broken thrust bearing then you have a huge spacer to fill up the endplay for a big part.

Another trick some people do is mount a 5x10 bearing with a flang on that side. The flang prevents the bearing going fully inside the clutch bell and creates less endplay filling space. And beside of that, because the bearings are placed more apart the bell has a better support.

But to keep the thrustbearing alive you need to get the endplay low, 0.1~0.2mm (be sure to have some space for the expansion of the clutch bell. Be sure you have enough shims in several thickness to get it right. Las I have bought 100 shims of one size for just 6 euro at a local store, on Aliexpress a friend did find them in all sizes per 100 pieces for just 3 dollar a bag of 100.

Something I have tried:
At a spring manufacturer you can find very smal wave springs in 5x6.5mm

http://www.euronet.nl/users/tooms/ko...de_term_ol.gif

These are ideal to fill up the endplay with a very small spring tension.
Some people do bend a 0.1mm shim a bit hollow so it will act as a spring too.

If the shoe wears off the endplay stays the same, the gap will go bigger. Now you are confusingme if you do really know the gap and endplay.
This is also in the same line of my confusing:

Shortening the bearing stopper is lowering the max gap setting and not the endplay.

Probably you had too much slip by a too high pre tension on the clutch spring to ruin the shoe or did you set a to high gap?

I think you're confusing endplay and gap...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2LrH5YFbyk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=858EyYhfKLw

Basically w/o many minutes of video:

- build up the clutch w/o shims.
- the spring nut can normally set one turn more from flush with the flywheel nut
- be sure the clutchbell can be pushed against the shoe, if not take out the inside bearing.
- the gap is the amount of movement of the bell when you push it against the shoe as a zero point and pull it as far from the shoe.
- with shims on top of the thrust bearing you can set the gap, I use mostly 0.6mm with a new shoe, 0.7 with a used shoe.
- The endplay is set with shims against the flywheel nut, fill it up until the axial play is arround 0.1~0.2mm

Then when started the engine set the engage point of the clutch with the spring nut.
When the clutch gets more slip after some use, just move an 0.1 or 0.2mm mm endplay shim to the gap shims.

Roelef said it all u should not have a problem following what he said but main thing is when checking the clutch after use is to recognize what it's doing the clutch and how to reset it after it seats in and don't just be like oh it only feels like it's a tad more play and then leave it, u just check it the right way it takes work but this is what it is.