LOW ET

iTrader: (109)

cool, havent started my build yet so i'm just try'n to gather info on what to expect.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Can't you adjust mid pulley position in 988?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

You couldn't on the 977 either. You can only adjust the belt tension on the front and rear belts using the cams on the axles. The side belt tension is only adjusted using the tensioner. If you want to get the belt tighter you can dremel a bit off the bottom of the tensioner slot and the bottom of the adjusting nut that fits in the slot but the stock setting is fine.

JBSpeed

Folks, Also noted the tension in the middle belt was pretty slack compared to my 977. On the 977 I didn’t even run the tensioner. I put it on and I”m running it half way down the slot on the 988. Notably it’s a new belt manufacturer (yellow writing). As it goes, not a bad thing. As Dan said, you can run the belts pretty loose and they don’t make bids for freedom!

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Interesting. On my 977 evo 2 (one of the last batches just before the 988) the belt is the same 'slackness' as my 988. Regardless it's all good!!

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

That's very different from my experience. There was no way not to use the tensioner in my 977. It was already almost too loose even with the tensioner. Same w my 966. Personally i dont like it loose. I don't remember if there was a cutout on the chassis for the mid pulley holder on either chassis but even without the slider, you can move the pulley holder a bit i noticed in many cars.

JBSpeed

Well it’s almost built...
The belts that came with my car are made by BANDO and are slacker than the non-BANDO ones on my 977. Possibly by design. Regardless, nice to have the option to run as slack as I dare to go :-)

Build has been faultless (length of time it’s taken is not reflective of anything other than my very hectic schedule!), so 11/10 for that Team Serpent.

Currently choosing base set up... Already set it up for the unique (and somewhat awesome) experience that is the Singapore RCMC Conrod munching high speed layout for 2018. Noted most people swap the front and rear antiroll bias around (I.e Harder on the rear), and slightly heavier damping at the front. apart from that pretty out of box standard set up to start with.

Anybody got any handling observations, tips or body shell choices? Got an R18 waiting, but noted a few peeps have started using the R19 on the 988. Any experiences on here?

Just Engine to Go..... as soon as I’m back :-)

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Stock setup is on the money, it is nice and safe but lacks a little bit of steering for some hence why we swap the front/rear roll bars around. That is all is needs. We also sometimes run GREEN springs up front in higher traction as it makes the car a bit easier to drive.

I prefer the R18 over the R19 but I would recommend getting both as it really does depend on the track. I've found you can pretty much run the R18 in the 'stock' position ie run it aligned with the front wheel arch. The R19 however has to be mounted a bit forward in order to get the steering of the R18. At cotswolds in the UK there wasn't much difference between the 2 however in Fiorano the R19 was faster but less consistent than the R18 and so I stuck with the R18 - it all depends on the driver and the track so get both.

In the UK I dropped down to 800 cst (Associated oil) 2 hole front 3 hole rear due to the cold but in Fiorano for the ENS I ran 900 cst (same pistons). It just depends on the track but the window for the shocks is nice and small and so you won't be having to change it very often. The car just seems to work everywhere well from the outset with only very minor changes here and there.

Yes, the car is by far the best quality kit I have ever built. Serpent has always had good quality but this one is absolutely the best out there. The SRX8-EVO buggy is also at the same level of stunning quality. Very very happy with mine. Your car looks fantastic - good choice in the option parts as you've chosen all the important ones that make a difference.

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

Just wondering if the body mounting post on the 977 evo2 are the same as on a 988, will i be able to interchange bodies between the 2 cars. TIA

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yes they are the same. You can interchange the bodies fine.

Legutko

Great thread, I have not read so many info about Nitro in one place, great thanks!
Smashrc, your car is great

JBSpeed

Gents,
Finally managed to get a run in, had it set up as per my usual 977 setup (which is not miles away from 988 default, except I ran the shocks 2-hole front shock pistons, 3 hole rear shock pistons, 800wt oil & anti roll bars hard-rear, soft-front).

Found the car on the rear was on rails (sooooooo much grip is generated by the new back end), so much so that on-power steering on the fast sweepers wasn’t great and the car pushed out quite wide when I opened it up. Now have to caveat this with the fact that the infamous singapore rain stopped me attacking the set up etc, but I wouldn’t mind if anyone has some advice on general findings with 988. Its very a very different animal to the 977, but with all that rear grip it’s gonna be ballistic once balanced out.

I did the dangerous thing of looking at the setups on the serpent website and noted that people seem to be running a more caster and running the front upper wishbones on the “more inboard” setting, this to me points to asking for more power-on steering.

Last question, can someone tell me what the front inserts do in the steering blocks? Leading or trailing I believe, but I honestly don’t know what this geometry change does does (despite reading the Hudy setup manual from cover to cover!).

Thanks in advance for any help, and happy winter builds & testing to all!


















#76 (Almost) ready for 2018...

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Yes the rear end is just glued into the track. It is amazing home much rear end the car has and it translates in being able to push the car really hard and be so consistent and confident in it.

The biggest thing for me was swapping the kit roll bars front to rear so ending with a hard rear and medium front. This made a big difference.

5mm caster with the front arms back 1mm from kit so shortening the wheel base to get more rotation and also more steering in general. I also run trailing on the front steering blocks. This adds more power on steering but makes the car aggressive around centre so if you can manage the aggressiveness this will be a good option for you.

Shocks are good as you have set them. Lowest position on front. Mid position in the rear. I ran gray front springs in Fiorano but usually go between green and purple in lower grip. Rear is always pink - nothing else I tried seemed to work very well.

I also run the narrow front end - kit setting.

JBSpeed

Dan,
Quick reply to say thanks. Finally got a long afternoon/evening to try out some the tweaked set-ups and your advice helped a bunch. Cheers!

Simply put, beat my own personal best with my practice donkey installed, that'll do!

Happy Holidays ya'll, and cheers Serpent for the car.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Fantastic. I'm happy you are going well with the car!