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Build Complete: HPI RS4 2

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Build Complete: HPI RS4 2

Old 12-22-2018, 11:50 PM
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I'm not aware of any other fuel tanks that are a direct fit. The main problem with the stock fuel tank is the primer assembly, which always seems to leak. HPI did a halfassed job fixing this by replacing the rubber O-ring on the filler cap with a foam ring, so excess pressure could leak past the foam ring instead of pushing fuel out through the primer assembly, but that's not really an improvement. There are aftermarket filler caps for the stock fuel tank that have O-rings like all good filler caps should, but then the problem of the primer assembly leaking comes back. If you could remove the primer assembly and plug it without blocking the fuel pickup inside the tank, then that would be a good solution. I never actually figured out how to do that, though, because I managed to buy a couple of the racing tanks while it was still possible to find them.

EDIT: I just saw this auction on eBay for a racing tank: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-Racing-...w/233063255445. 17 hours remaining, as of 3AM EST on 12/23.

ANOTHER EDIT: I just remembered, GPM makes a special top deck for the Nitro RS4 that has a larger space for the fuel tank, and I believe it can fit the extended 100cc fuel tank from the Nitro MT2 truck. The 100cc fuel tank works great, I have one in my Nitro MT2 and a modified one in my T-Maxx.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 12-23-2018 at 12:02 AM.
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:09 AM
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Thanks guys I used redcat 1/10 fuel tank just did minor mods to make it fit & it looks great, got tank new on eBay for like $5.

are there a lot of issues running with more powerful engines like a traxxas 3.3 or something of that sort? I put on in & was just wondering if I’ll be bending dog bones, tearing things up. Tx guys
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Old 01-25-2019, 11:59 AM
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You'll definitely want a full set of ball bearings if you don't have them already. Belt tensioners are also a good idea, because more torque means a greater likelihood of belts slipping. The dogbones should be fine, but you'll want HPI's nickel-plated "HD" drive cups instead of the regular black-coated ones that are made of softer steel.
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Old 09-29-2021, 09:26 PM
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What paint and how many coats of it did you use to back the Lime Pearl paint?

Last edited by Typpo; 10-04-2021 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 10-05-2021, 12:26 PM
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The Pearl Lime paint was backed with Base White, which is a thicker and somewhat rubberized version of normal white paint. If I were going to paint this body again, I'd use a single coat of Base White under the Pearl Lime, and then back it with Base Black which doesn't show dirt as much. After the paint dried for a couple days it was sealed with Spaz Stix Nitro Protector, which I think is just glossy clear acrylic. I wouldn't substitute different glossy clear acrylic though, because Lexan bodies require flexible paint and I don't know if something like Krylon has the necessary additives.
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:17 PM
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Thank you for the detailed explanation and for providing recommendations. Based on your pictures, the inside of the body appeared white but I was unsure what paint you used.
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Old 10-07-2021, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
The Pearl Lime paint was backed with Base White, which is a thicker and somewhat rubberized version of normal white paint. If I were going to paint this body again, I'd use a single coat of Base White under the Pearl Lime, and then back it with Base Black which doesn't show dirt as much. After the paint dried for a couple days it was sealed with Spaz Stix Nitro Protector, which I think is just glossy clear acrylic. I wouldn't substitute different glossy clear acrylic though, because Lexan bodies require flexible paint and I don't know if something like Krylon has the necessary additives.
Thank you again for the detailed explanation. To verify, did you select the Base White cover coat instead of the normal white paint to better protect the shell against nitro fuel or was there another reason?
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Old 10-08-2021, 04:44 AM
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Honestly I selected the Base White paint instead of normal white paint because that's what I was "supposed" to do. I don't know if it's actually more durable.
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Old 10-12-2021, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
Honestly I selected the Base White paint instead of normal white paint because that's what I was "supposed" to do. I don't know if it's actually more durable.
Thank you for letting me know. Not sure if it helps but there was a notice on the Duratrax website called "Instructions for Duratrax Pearl White Paint Application". It included recommendations for using their other paints as well. Unfortunately, the Duratrax web address directed me to Horizon Hobbies and I could not find the document.

Pasting the following search string into Google:
Instructions for Duratrax Pearl White Paint Application
Located the instructions here:
http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxr4076-tech.pdf
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:51 AM
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I agree with their recommendation. Lots of colors need to be backed with white to make them suitably bright. Base White and Bright White are the same color, though; Base White is just thicker, and based on the smell during application, I think it's rubberized too.
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